EGR delete and EGR cooler 05 6.0L

[HELLRAISER]

Our work truck is a '05... I am getting bogging on mid to full throttle, and black/blue smoke and stuttering... other than that, it runs fine. I pulled out the EGR vavle and cleaned it. From what I have read on here, it sounds like I might have some coking of the intake manifold, the actuator and turbo... I understand to remove the intake is 20 hours or more. If I do an EGR delete, and take the truck for a good run I'm hoping I can avoid further carbon buildup and curb the problem. So here's my questions;

A plate won't close off the exhaust from recirculation, it has to block the port- correct? So what does the EGR plate with the block off portion look like. Can you use the existing valve and disable the internals?

EGR cooler- IF you just by-pass this, will it still not leak? I am trying to become more familiar with how this system works in better detail for the 6.0L does anyone have a link to a reference of information?

Thanks

[TKOPerformance]

If the valve is sticking, cleaning it only works about 1/2 the time. If the EGR cooler is in place you need the valve. If not the valve is superfluous. It can be in place, the hole can be blocked with a plate; it doesn't matter. You may need a tune to avoid a CEL though.

An EGR delete will either replace a section of the factory up pipe with a section of pipe that doesn't have an outlet for the EGR cooler, or there is a plug that can be installed in the stock pipe. Changing the pipe is a PITA, but it makes working on the truck from there on a little easier.

On the intake you are basically just re-routing the coolant from the intake directly to the oil cooler housing; instead of the coolant flowing through the EGR cooler.

FYI, I can have the intake off a truck in about 1-2 hours.

All that said, black/blue smoke isn't a good sign. I'm betting your issues are turbo related. Black smoke could be as simple as a coked up turbine housing that won't allow proper vane actuation, or there could be damage to the unison ring. Another possibility is a bad EBPS or clogged tube, or the vane control solenoid could be bad. Where I think things are worse than that though is the blue smoke. Blue smoke's oil, and if the engine is otherwise healthy it may be leaking past the shaft seal in the turbo. There's a good possibility that the turbo is going to turn out to be junk, but you won't know until you start taking things apart.

[lusenuts]

i would do a computer check to see if there is a cylinder not contributing those would be the cylinders i would go after for the surging al check FICM for proper Voltage in and voltage out. run a injector buzz test and also check for codes in the computer. i have found that most the time on the 6.0 the injectors or ficm has a issue

[TKOPerformance]

Testing FICM voltage is never a bad idea, whenever there is an issue on a 6.0. It's likely the most failure prone component on the truck.

If your boost checks out normal and the turbo is working properly then I would suspect a fuel issue, but the blue smoke is IMO more concerning than the black smoke. Fuel isn't going to make blue smoke; only oil does that.