Upgrades and Aftermarket - 6.0L EngineUpgrading and adding aftermarket equipment to your 2003-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Just got all the gauges for my truck and was wondering the best way to install the EGT probe in the manifold. Would rather not remove the manifold but at the same time, dont want to get metal scraps in the turbo. any suggestions to the safest way to do this? Seems like it should be a simple task but im probibly just overthinking it...
Make sure you drill into the cast manifold and not the up pipe. Have the truck RUNNING(idle), and have GREASE on the drill bit. Do this in a well ventilated with safety glasses or face shield! When you tap the hole make sure to grease the tap as well. When done turn the truck off, and use a magnet to get any metal left over out. see the pic as to where to drill (A), and where to run the wire(B) into the cab.
When I owned my CTD, I was advised by the company who sold me my gauge set to not use grease and keep the truck running while drilling. The turbo does not run at idle, so whatever particles do get caught in the manifold are going to get harmlessly blown through the turbo. I did it this way and it worked just fine. I had the truck for 54,000 miles and never had a problem.
I've heard of some people covering the tailpipe, which creates backpressure, blowing the metal particles back out at you, so the need for goggles is a must....I've never tried this method, so I can't tell you if it works or not; it would seem to me that doing it this way might send some shavings back to the valves, but I don't know for sure. I can tell you that you should wear goggles either way, if you value your eyes.
Good luck.
__________________
SSG Fred Lynes
2004 F-350 CC DRW
Oxford White/Arizona Beige Metallic
King Ranch Interior
Herrin Hauler Package
Reman'd 6.0L @ 43,956 miles
Remand'd turbo @54,814 miles
5R110 Torqshift
4.10 LSD
Strokin' 6.0,
The turbo spins whenever the engine is running, just at a slower rate.
"The turbo does not run at idle,"-strokin' 6.0
__________________
04/04 F250 12/20/03 build date, XLT Supercab longbed 6.0l, 4X4, 3.73lsd, FX4 pkg, torqueshift, ESOF, silver/med. flint, 6cd, back up sensors, rear slider, camper pkg, big mirrors w/ heated/pwr glass, no hood blanket. Now has hood blanket for free. 80,000 mi so far. Had Various oil leaks. Been in 4 times for oil leaks. 6-CD changer stopped working. New cd changer doesn't work either. Coolant leaks. I now have the service dept. telephone # memorized. EBP recall and metal CAC pipe replacement, also FICM harness all replaced for free. Egr valve went bad at 35700 miles on a trip. Odometer read 36035 when I got to the dealer and they made me pay the deductible. Has not seen the dealer for anything since 36K. Running Great.
04/04 F350 Crew Cab long bed 6.0L lariat FX4 39K
1998.5 Dodge 3500 4x4 dually 24valve cummins 160K
2005 Lance 835 Cabover Camper
1999 Sanger DXII ski boat
1975 Dodge RamCharger (sold)
2005 Yamaha WR450F
1990 Sanger DX ski boat
1991 Dodge W350 Cummins SRW (sold)
Just relaying what I was told, which is that the turbo doesn't start spinning until 1500 RPM. Is it possible that the Garrett is different from the Holset?
__________________
SSG Fred Lynes
2004 F-350 CC DRW
Oxford White/Arizona Beige Metallic
King Ranch Interior
Herrin Hauler Package
Reman'd 6.0L @ 43,956 miles
Remand'd turbo @54,814 miles
5R110 Torqshift
4.10 LSD
From Image 24
This is the location for thermocouple placement on a 6.0L Powerstroke. Start with a small pilot hole and work your way up to a size "R" drill bit (0.339") increasing 1 drill bit size at a time. This will cause all shavings to be small. Most of the shavings will fall in your face, so wear safety eye protection. There is no need to coat your bits with grease or lube. You want all of the shavings to remain dry so that they will come out without sticking when you vacuum out the hole. Using a 1/8" NPT tap, tap the hole. Apply a small amount of anti-seize lubricant to the threads of the fitting and tighten. Insert the probe with its nut and ferrule. You want the tip of the probe to be in the center of the exhaust flow. Usually this means that it will need to be inserted 1 inch past the threads that you tapped. Tighten the nut no more than 1 full turn past finger tight. Connect the thermocouple wires to the lead wire using the supplied nuts and heat protective sleeves if equipped. You will be connecting the thermocouple to the end of the lead wire that has a long red lead and a shorter yellow lead. Weatherpack connectors simply plug in to one another.
Tech Tip: Do not perform this while the engine is running! Some company’s recommend this, as it’s their belief that the exhaust pressure going through the manifold will push the shavings out through the hole you are drilling. Ironically some of them in addition recommend coating the bits with grease. We do not subscribe to this belief. Working on a running engine greatly increases your chance of injury. Also, while uncommon, if your drill bit happens to break off inside the manifold, it has no place to go but through the turbo. If the engine were not running you can always take whatever action necessary to remove the broken piece before you start the engine. The practice of coating your drill bits with grease is also a very bad idea. The flutes of a drill bit are designed to remove chips outward. By loading these flutes up with grease all you would be doing is making it more difficult for them to perform as designed. Also, grease will cause some of the shavings to stick on the inside of the manifold, making it difficult to remove later with a vacuum cleaner.
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