Upgrades and Aftermarket - 6.0L EngineUpgrading and adding aftermarket equipment to your 2003-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Has anyone removed the exhaust manifold to drill and tap for the pyrometer? Anyone have any helpful tips for removal and re-installation? I thought it would be safer to remove it for drilling and tapping, but now I am worried about the bolts sticking or breaking off on removal. I have also read the you should replace the studs with brand new SS hardware for re-installation. Now it seems to be more of a PITA to R&R the manifold to keep all the shavings out of the turbo than just drilling and tapping it in place!
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2003 F-250 (Built 1-03, Engine built at Huntsville plant on Sept. 20, '02), 6.0L, 4x4, CC, Moonroof, Pwr Pedals, FX4, King Ranch, DRL, Leer 100XL cap, Bed Rug, AIC, Prodigy control, Delphi Skyfi XM radio with line input to OEM 6 CD changer using P.I.E. FRDN-AUX Auxiliary Input Converter and Auto-Power On Adapter for SkyFi, Centramatics, Putco Virtual Vertical Grill, Fumoto Drain Valve, AFE ProGuard 7 Intake, B27.9 Flash, BD X-Monitor with Cool Engine Shutdown Module. Dieselsite coolant filter and Oilguard by-pass filter.
The majority here drill and tap in place with no issues to report. Just be careful and make sure to vaccumn the hole well and BTW , I believe using grease on the drill bit and tap are not a good idea for the simple fact that if shavings do end up in the manifold it would be impossible to vaccumn out. Take it for what its worth. Just my opinion. It worked well for me.
If you do decide to remove your manifold, use an air wrench. Start with the torque setting on low and turn it up until you have enough torque to remove the bolts/nuts. The pounding action of the air wrench helps break loose any rust that may have developed. I never attempt to remove exhaust bolts/nuts without the use of an air wrench. (I've never broken a bolt yet while using one)
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If you do decide to remove your manifold, use an air wrench. Start with the torque setting on low and turn it up until you have enough torque to remove the bolts/nuts. The pounding action of the air wrench helps break loose any rust that may have developed. I never attempt to remove exhaust bolts/nuts without the use of an air wrench. (I've never broken a bolt yet while using one)
Good luck!
Brian.
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Using a impact/air tool to remove these was what I was told to do after I twisted one of the bolts in two that holds the up pipe to the turbo at the manifold. This was on my Van that was only 3 month old. I believe these are class 8 bolts and after being heated and cooled many times are easy to twist in two.
Larry
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If you do decide to remove your manifold, use an air wrench. Start with the torque setting on low and turn it up until you have enough torque to remove the bolts/nuts. The pounding action of the air wrench helps break loose any rust that may have developed. I never attempt to remove exhaust bolts/nuts without the use of an air wrench. (I've never broken a bolt yet while using one)
Good luck!
Brian.
[/ QUOTE ]
Using a impact/air tool to remove these was what I was told to do after I twisted one of the bolts in two that holds the up pipe to the turbo at the manifold. This was on my Van that was only 3 month old. I believe these are class 8 bolts and after being heated and cooled many times are easy to twist in two.
Larry
keeper of the <font color="blue">"little secrets" </font> CLICK HERE [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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Lucky that was a flange bolt and not a head bolt. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
If you drill and tap with the engine running I am pretty confident that there will be zero shavings going past(no scientific findings though). On my 03' the exhaust force was so strong that I couldn't see to finish the operation. I removed the filter lens from an old welding hood to allow me to finish.
It really feels like 125psi or so is coming out of that hole.
Don't bother with the frustration of manifold removal. Leave it on the engine and try the method below.
Someone else suggested the following method for fines retrieval. I did it also and it works very well.
Take a 3" piece of coat hanger wire. Bend it to form an "L". Attach a small u-shaped magnet to the long end of the wire. Insert the short end of the "L" into the hole you just drilled, then slowly rotate the wire in a circle. Remove the wire and wipe off the fines. Re-insert the wire and repeat that process. Excellent clean-out results!
The magnet can be bought in hardware stores. They typically state a lifting power of about 5 pounds, if I've remembered correctly.
After the magnet work I vacuumed for the heck of it, but it probably was not necessary.
David
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[/ QUOTE ] Very little, mostlt dust particles, I think they were most likely the rust flakes coming off the outside of the manifold. I also drilled in small incriments. most shavings are dropping in your face.
But you end up with a pyro gauge that is far as I am concerned worthless except for determining if it's safe to shut the engine off. Pre turbo is the only way to go.
And don't forget, (I have too [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]) you can also use the clamp on style in the up-pipe! Very easy to drill and install....
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