Upgrades and Aftermarket - 6.0L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2003-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
i was told that using the billet cap was the easiest and cheapest way to go.....
So that billet cap was cheaper than the 10$ fitting required to hook to the actual fuel pressure test port that is on the fuel filter/regulator housing???
Johnny87 explained it well above.
__________________ 2004 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab Long Box
ARP Stud's
MBRP 4" Turbo Back
Oil and Coolant Bypass Filters
SCT w/Custom Tunes
Fuel Pressure, HPOP Pressure, Boost and EGT on the A-Pillar
You can see the location of the fuel pressure test port in the top pic here.
Roper
I hope this is the last question on this, maybe not. When I pull that plug out of the test port will all the fuel drain out of the filter houseing and go everywhere, if so may change fuel filters at this time only have 7000 mi on them but most of that pulling a 5er and on a side note, what is the best drill bit to use on the manifold for the pyro 21/64" or 5/16" getting ready to install the Edge Insight. Thanks for all the help on this, like I said a Green Horn here when it comes to the 6.0 2 stroker
Roper
I hope this is the last question on this, maybe not. When I pull that plug out of the test port will all the fuel drain out of the filter houseing and go everywhere, if so may change fuel filters at this time only have 7000 mi on them but most of that pulling a 5er and on a side note, what is the best drill bit to use on the manifold for the pyro 21/64" or 5/16" getting ready to install the Edge Insight. Thanks for all the help on this, like I said a Green Horn here when it comes to the 6.0 2 stroker
Remove the filter top and filter to relieve any remaining pressure. Use turkey baster to remove any remaining fuel out of the fuel filter housing. Remove plug, install gauge fitting. Replace filter. Turn key to on position until fuel pump stops, then repeat until air is purged from system. Check for leaks.
Yes 21/64 is the proper bit for the 1/8"npt
__________________ 2004 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab Long Box
ARP Stud's
MBRP 4" Turbo Back
Oil and Coolant Bypass Filters
SCT w/Custom Tunes
Fuel Pressure, HPOP Pressure, Boost and EGT on the A-Pillar
Remove the filter top and filter to relieve any remaining pressure. Use turkey baster to remove any remaining fuel out of the fuel filter housing. Remove plug, install gauge fitting. Replace filter. Turn key to on position until fuel pump stops, then repeat until air is purged from system. Check for leaks.
Yes 21/64 is the proper bit for the 1/8"npt
Thanks for the come back soooo quick, you guys are like a big book, but a lot quicker. Thanks
When I did mine NO diesel leaked out of the test port.
You do have to grind a little bit off each tip of the hex nut that holds the fuel line into the test port. The hex is too big diameter to fit and hits the housing. I can show a pic of mine if you want.
I turned the key,(without starting), to purge the air out of the line, but I dont know if that was necessary.
Then route the line under your air filter and zip tie it to the battery cable and put your sender there. Then its a straght shot for the wires to go into your cab though the clutch pedal plug.
Check for leaks after your done.
My pressure is anywhere between 58 and 64 psi, depending on the type of driving.
__________________
The 6.0l motor has surpassed Hot Chicks as the greatest Money reducing Agent known to Mankind.
2004 F-250 Lariat late build 4X4 CC/LB auto,fully loaded with sunroof, power slider and backup sensors , White with 12" ICON lift, 6 superduty valved bilsteins, flip steering, 38" MTZs on 20x12 chrome Fuel Hostage wheels, stock gears, superlift truspeed, fumoto, high idle mod, large case high amp alternator, floating traction bars, airraid intake with elbow, 4" turbo back, studded, powerslots with hawk pads, billet grill, 55 watt HIDs 6000k heads and fogs, clear corners, 7" Eclipse AVN6620BT NAV w/ back up camera, massive JL stereo 300/4 and 500/1, 2 12s behind back seat, amp research steps, sirius, '08 diff cover, redhead steering box,, coolant filter kit, hush panels and door seal mod, quad pod with boost, EGT, water temp, and fuel pressure gauges
When I did mine NO diesel leaked out of the test port.
You do have to grind a little bit off each tip of the hex nut that holds the fuel line into the test port. The hex is too big diameter to fit and hits the housing. I can show a pic of mine if you want.
I turned the key,(without starting), to purge the air out of the line, but I dont know if that was necessary.
Then route the line under your air filter and zip tie it to the battery cable and put your sender there. Then its a straght shot for the wires to go into your cab though the clutch pedal plug.
Check for leaks after your done.
My pressure is anywhere between 58 and 64 psi, depending on the type of driving.
one pic is worth a 1000 word's----you guys are great
one pic is worth a 1000 word's----you guys are great
Alright hold on a sec I'll post one in a minute.
__________________
The 6.0l motor has surpassed Hot Chicks as the greatest Money reducing Agent known to Mankind.
2004 F-250 Lariat late build 4X4 CC/LB auto,fully loaded with sunroof, power slider and backup sensors , White with 12" ICON lift, 6 superduty valved bilsteins, flip steering, 38" MTZs on 20x12 chrome Fuel Hostage wheels, stock gears, superlift truspeed, fumoto, high idle mod, large case high amp alternator, floating traction bars, airraid intake with elbow, 4" turbo back, studded, powerslots with hawk pads, billet grill, 55 watt HIDs 6000k heads and fogs, clear corners, 7" Eclipse AVN6620BT NAV w/ back up camera, massive JL stereo 300/4 and 500/1, 2 12s behind back seat, amp research steps, sirius, '08 diff cover, redhead steering box,, coolant filter kit, hush panels and door seal mod, quad pod with boost, EGT, water temp, and fuel pressure gauges
Here are some......I took on my ancient RAZR phone so they arent the best.
1st one is the sender next to the air filter.......
2nd is how you need to shave the hex bolt on the end of the fuel line(if you can see it, try zooming in)........you can see rust on the part where I grinded.
3rd is the way I routed the line........
and my quad pod...the one on top is fuel pressure.
__________________
The 6.0l motor has surpassed Hot Chicks as the greatest Money reducing Agent known to Mankind.
2004 F-250 Lariat late build 4X4 CC/LB auto,fully loaded with sunroof, power slider and backup sensors , White with 12" ICON lift, 6 superduty valved bilsteins, flip steering, 38" MTZs on 20x12 chrome Fuel Hostage wheels, stock gears, superlift truspeed, fumoto, high idle mod, large case high amp alternator, floating traction bars, airraid intake with elbow, 4" turbo back, studded, powerslots with hawk pads, billet grill, 55 watt HIDs 6000k heads and fogs, clear corners, 7" Eclipse AVN6620BT NAV w/ back up camera, massive JL stereo 300/4 and 500/1, 2 12s behind back seat, amp research steps, sirius, '08 diff cover, redhead steering box,, coolant filter kit, hush panels and door seal mod, quad pod with boost, EGT, water temp, and fuel pressure gauges
Here are some......I took on my ancient RAZR phone so they arent the best.
1st one is the sender next to the air filter.......
2nd is how you need to shave the hex bolt on the end of the fuel line(if you can see it, try zooming in)........you can see rust on the part where I grinded.
3rd is the way I routed the line........
and my quad pod...the one on top is fuel pressure.
Good job, got it. now I'm getting a better understanding of what I need to do. Again thanks for doing this.
i am using the billet aluminum cap on the fuel filter housing with a sender on top. i am getting readings between 48 and 53 all the time, cruising when under load or not almost always at 50. why is taking the reading from this top port incorrect ? it is showing a lower pressure or higher pressure ? thanks in advance for the reply. i was told that using the billet cap was the easiest and cheapest way to go.....
Measuring pressure at the cap gives an indication of inlet pressure to the filter housing. The reason that pressure needs to be monitored is so that you have an indication of what pressure that fuel is delivered to the fuel injectors at. Some pressure drop occurs as fuel flows through the filter and as the filter accumulates more dirt the difference from inlet to outlet gets higher meaning that outlet pressure lowers.
Hey,
I am a newbie. I am interested in installing the fuel pressure gauge. I am just trying to understand why i need to monitor fuel pressure. If you have too low or high pressure can you damage things on your engine? Any input is appreciated, i just want to understand the benefit. Thanks
Fuel pressure that is too low or too high will damage your injectors, resulting in the need to replace them. A fuel pressure gauge and the ITP adapter will run you less than $250. One injector will run you somewhere between $150-$300 (depending on the source). Your truck has 8 injectors. Do the math and you can see where that $250 investment can pay for itself quickly in repairs you don't have to make.
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
Fuel pressure that is too low or too high will damage your injectors, resulting in the need to replace them. A fuel pressure gauge and the ITP adapter will run you less than $250. One injector will run you somewhere between $150-$300 (depending on the source). Your truck has 8 injectors. Do the math and you can see where that $250 investment can pay for itself quickly in repairs you don't have to make.
THANKS for the input. What is typically the cause of high/low pressure? Is it something simple to fix? My truck is starting to rack up some miles, and currently its problem free. I want to keep it that way!! My dad just bought a 2011 6.7 for $62,000. We need to keep the old 6.0 lasting! This is how my truck sits now,
-F250, 2005, FX4, 124k miles
-ARP studs
-SCTX3, Innovative Street Tune &/or 80hp Econo DP Tune (nothing too crazy)
-AFE Intake (i know stock is best, truck came with it)
-coolant filter-diesel sight
-Insight guage/EGT Probe (in the box installing this weekend)
-OEM fluids/filters, 4k oil changes (5w40 syn)
-4" Turbo Back Exhaust
-Stanadyne Performance Formula, every tank
-CCV Reroute, next on the list
-Fuel pressure gauge, next on the list
Sorry for the slight tangent, but do yall have any other recommendations on longevity mods?
Thanks
Last edited by teamroper60; 04-25-2010 at 04:29 PM.
Reason: Removed reference to an illegal modification.
The two major causes of low fuel pressure are a weak fuel pump or a weak fuel pressure regulator spring.
Too much fuel pressure is generally from modifying the regulator spring without knowing what the pressure was before or from putting in an aftermarket spring that holds the pressure too high.
If you have not messed with the regulator to this point, too much pressure is not a cause of concern for you but too low could be. A fuel pressure gauge (which I see on your "to do" list), with the sensor checking pressure from the test port on the fuel bowl will let you check and keep tabs on your fuel pressure.
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
The two major causes of low fuel pressure are a weak fuel pump or a weak fuel pressure regulator spring.
Too much fuel pressure is generally from modifying the regulator spring without knowing what the pressure was before or from putting in an aftermarket spring that holds the pressure too high.
If you have not messed with the regulator to this point, too much pressure is not a cause of concern for you but too low could be. A fuel pressure gauge (which I see on your "to do" list), with the sensor checking pressure from the test port on the fuel bowl will let you check and keep tabs on your fuel pressure.
Roper
Got my gauge all wired in, but what is the size of the allen on the test port, i have everything bigger and smaller but not that one. Thanks
2 stroker
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