Upgrades and Aftermarket - 6.0L EngineUpgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2003-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Roper
Got my gauge all wired in, but what is the size of the allen on the test port, i have everything bigger and smaller but not that one. Thanks
2 stroker
Off the top of my head, I don't know... I was thinking it was a 6mm though... I still have the test port plug at home. I'll take a look....
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
Off the top of my head, I don't know... I was thinking it was a 6mm though... I still have the test port plug at home. I'll take a look....
Well I got it, got one just a little smaller and it came right out, it was not even tight, and did not even lose a drop of fuel. I took it out for a spin and here are my numbers. At an idle it is running 50lbs on the road 50lbs when i get on it, it will drop down to 44 to 45lbs and that is the pedal to the floor. It is starting to rain out so when the sun comes i will change FF to see if that will bring up the numbers if everyone thinks they are a little low. I have about 7000mi on the one's that are in there now. All filters are Motorcraft. Again Thanks for all the help i think i have every thing in now ready for the road. 2 stroker
Ford calls for 55psi plus or minus 5psi, so you are acceptable but barely and if it drops to 44psi at WOT, that is barely low.. If the fuel filters don't do the trick, I would look into a new spring.....
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
Ford calls for 55psi plus or minus 5psi, so you are acceptable but barely and if it drops to 44psi at WOT, that is barely low.. If the fuel filters don't do the trick, I would look into a new spring.....
Thanks for the info i will do the filters but just to pick your brain a little more where is the spring located and is this something i can do get part from Ford or after market and install. With only 24000mi can the spring be shot already Thanks 2 stroker
This has been a great thread. I've been following it since I have my Autometer gauge and the ITP Diesel adapter fitting on order. This thread will hopefully save me from posting similar questions, thanks
Doug
__________________
2007 F-350 Crew Cab DRW 4X4 4.10LS, MBRP 4" Cool Duals turbo back, SCT/ custom tunes from Elite Diesel, Autometer gauges EGT, Trans, Fuel Pressure, MSD Dash hawk OBD II reader for ECT,EOT,Voltage and Boost, Dieselsite coolant filter
2 stroker, there is a fuel pressure spring thread going here now, check it out. i would post the link but i am not sure how.
it talks about doing it with the ford kit, which is like $70 or so. my numbers for pressure off the top of the filter (the wrong side to take a reading i have now found out, i got some bad advice from a indy diesel shop) are about exactly the same as yours, and i have about 7k on my filters as well, ironically. i bought the ITP adapter line to change out my gauge to off the test port, and will also change the spring kit at the same time.
dougjpr, check out that fuel pressure spring thread as well if you have not.....i learned a bunch there too....
__________________
2006 F350 4X4 6.0L Lariat Crew Cab FX4 SRW
Edge Insight with EGT probe
Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge / ITP Adapter Line
DieselSite Coolant Filter
Amsoil EaBp 100 ByPass Filter
Ford Fuel Pressure Blue Spring Kit
ITP HFCM Brass Drain Plug
Fumoto oil drain valve
born 10/2005, in service 8/2006
bought by me Jan 27th 2010 with 54K miles from first owner; Bill, RIP.
The spring is located behind the small plate that the return line attaches to. You can see the plate and return line here. This is probably one of the easiest repairs you can make... Take the four screws loose (they are T-27 torx screws), change pull the old spring out of the brass cup, put the new spring in and re-install the plate. When you are taking it loose, keep your thumb on the plate so the spring/cup doesn't pop out and also use your thumb to hold the plate up tight to the fuel bowl when re-installing, so the screws can be threaded in good. If you buy the whole kit (which I think is the only way you can get it from Ford), I would replace the brass cup while you are at it..
I would not buy the aftermarket spring from GDS. It has been shown to raise pressure well beyond what is recommended and risks blowing the internal o-ring in your injectors.
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
Well I got it, got one just a little smaller and it came right out, it was not even tight, and did not even lose a drop of fuel.
Glad you got that out without needing the size........ I thought I had kept it but it appears I have either misplaced or thrown away the test port plug I took out of mine..........
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
2 stroker, there is a fuel pressure spring thread going here now, check it out. i would post the link but i am not sure how.
it talks about doing it with the ford kit, which is like $70 or so. my numbers for pressure off the top of the filter (the wrong side to take a reading i have now found out, i got some bad advice from a indy diesel shop) are about exactly the same as yours, and i have about 7k on my filters as well, ironically. i bought the ITP adapter line to change out my gauge to off the test port, and will also change the spring kit at the same time.
dougjpr, check out that fuel pressure spring thread as well if you have not.....i learned a bunch there too....
Thanks for the heads up on that one lot of good info. One thing that may help, on the fitting that goes into the test port i just hit the high points on the fitting with a grinder just a little so it would not hit part of the houseing when i screw it in. That worked well, went right in. 2 stroker
2 stroker, there is a fuel pressure spring thread going here now, check it out. i would post the link but i am not sure how.
it talks about doing it with the ford kit, which is like $70 or so. my numbers for pressure off the top of the filter (the wrong side to take a reading i have now found out, i got some bad advice from a indy diesel shop) are about exactly the same as yours, and i have about 7k on my filters as well, ironically. i bought the ITP adapter line to change out my gauge to off the test port, and will also change the spring kit at the same time.
dougjpr, check out that fuel pressure spring thread as well if you have not.....i learned a bunch there too....
willingtonpaul
Like i said thanks on the post to the link on the fuel spring, ordered it yesterday and got it today (regulator valve kit) 3C3Z-9T517-AG $76.80 new plate, O rings, blue spring, poppet, new screws. When i went in to the parts desk, Dave said he had never sold one before, and i told him you need a gauge to tell if the spring is getting weak, so you must sell more injectors than springs. No Comment. I will change my filters first then if it is the same change it out, don't need any trouble pulling my 14000lb 5er. 2 stroker
thanks for the tip on grinding the points off for the test port connection. i am gonna do both fuel filters in about 2k miles. i am gonna change over the fuel pressure gauge connection then, do the spring for good measure, as my readings are like yours, and i don't think it is my filters, and also i am swapping out the drain plug on my HFCM for the brass one on ITP's site, so i don't have to use the allen wrench down there when i drain off some fuel from the water separator / sensor. i have been draining the water sensor ever since i got the truck about every 2k miles or so, even though i have not gotten a water in fuel error message. every time i do it, i am getting a little junk and dirty water. maybe like a 1/2 teaspoon or so. i think it is just good preventative care. i keep the allen key in the glovebox and a mason jar under the seat.
i think the guy that had the truck before me had a bad tank of fuel, had the light come on, brought it to the dealer, they changed the filters, then he traded it in when he fell on ill health. but i am fairly certain they did not drop the tank and flush it. so i think there is some residual junk in the tank that has been working it's way through.
__________________
2006 F350 4X4 6.0L Lariat Crew Cab FX4 SRW
Edge Insight with EGT probe
Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge / ITP Adapter Line
DieselSite Coolant Filter
Amsoil EaBp 100 ByPass Filter
Ford Fuel Pressure Blue Spring Kit
ITP HFCM Brass Drain Plug
Fumoto oil drain valve
born 10/2005, in service 8/2006
bought by me Jan 27th 2010 with 54K miles from first owner; Bill, RIP.
just rolled 110K miles DEC 29th 2011
Last edited by willingtonpaul; 04-28-2010 at 09:34 PM.
thanks for the tip on grinding the points off for the test port connection. i am gonna do both fuel filters in about 2k miles. i am gonna change over the fuel pressure gauge connection then, do the spring for good measure, as my readings are like yours, and i don't think it is my filters, and also i am swapping out the drain plug on my HFCM for the brass one on ITP's site, so i don't have to use the allen wrench down there when i drain off some fuel from the water separator / sensor. i have been draining the water sensor ever since i got the truck about every 2k miles or so, even though i have not gotten a water in fuel error message. every time i do it, i am getting a little junk and dirty water. maybe like a 1/2 teaspoon or so. i think it is just good preventative care. i keep the allen key in the glovebox and a mason jar under the seat.
i think the guy that had the truck before me had a bad tank of fuel, had the light come on, brought it to the dealer, they changed the filters, then he traded it in when he fell on ill health. but i am fairly certain they did not drop the tank and flush it. so i think there is some residual junk in the tank that has been working it's way through.
Looks like everything on your truck is just the same as mine,06, by-pass, coolent filter, edge, pyro, autometer and the brass drain for the HFCM, it looks like we both have the same taste (in trucks & mods) 2 stroker
Ford calls for 55psi plus or minus 5psi, so you are acceptable but barely and if it drops to 44psi at WOT, that is barely low.. If the fuel filters don't do the trick, I would look into a new spring.....
teamroper
Well got the filters change they looked good O water and still 50 lbs at idle and 44-45 lbs at WOT. Got my new Regulator Kit (3C3Z-9T517-AG) and when i take the cover off will the spring,poppet,black insert,small white plastic thing with a small pin hole in it fall out, just don't want any surprises. Thanks 2 stroker
teamroper
Well got the filters change they looked good O water and still 50 lbs at idle and 44-45 lbs at WOT. Got my new Regulator Kit (3C3Z-9T517-AG) and when i take the cover off will the spring,poppet,black insert,small white plastic thing with a small pin hole in it fall out, just don't want any surprises. Thanks 2 stroker
Just take it apart slowly because there is tension on the spring. Make sure and drain the filter housing first and it won't me as messy. The radiator hose is kinda in the way, but other than that it is an easy job. It only took me a few minutes to do mine.
__________________ 2004 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab Long Box
ARP Stud's
MBRP 4" Turbo Back
Oil and Coolant Bypass Filters
SCT w/Custom Tunes
Fuel Pressure, HPOP Pressure, Boost and EGT on the A-Pillar
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