How hard is it too change headstuds with the motor out??? - Diesel Forum

rmkhauler · 07-07-2007, 03:33 AM

Ford may have to pull my motor to fix a bedplate leak, and I am thinking about having them install the ARP headstud while it is out for piece of mind once I get an SCT tuner. Is this something that can be done easily with the motor out of the truck?, and how many hours should it take. Also, is there anything else I should do while the motor is out to increase reliability.

Ryan

jimmy · 07-07-2007, 02:53 PM

Ford says that if the headbolts are loosened the head gaskets must be changed. Some say that is not true.
IF the dealer were willing to go along with doing this as a one bolt/stud at a time deal then they would have to remove the valve covers in order to get to the bolts under them.

First hurdle is getting them to agree to it.

I haven't seen anyone poast that they have actually done this w/o new gaskets. I'd like to see someoene respond that has actually done this to see if it works over time.

rmkhauler · 07-07-2007, 03:54 PM

I'm pretty sure I can get my dealer to do it no problem, and I will just have them replace the headgaskets to if necessary. I'm just wondering about how many hours of labor this will cost me?, and if I should consider doing anything else while it is out.

1SickHarley · 07-08-2007, 02:01 AM

The labor charge SHOULDN'T be that much since the motor is already out. If they do change the gaskets, make sure they check the heads to see if they're warped or not. Good luck.

TKOPerformance · 07-21-2007, 07:17 PM

I plan to install my studs one at a time. I look at it like this: if it ain't broke don't fix it, and my head gaskets don't leak now. Introducing another variable into the system, i.e. replacing the gaskets, is inviting potential disaster IMO. I will also drain down the cooling system and oil when I do this as a precaution. I don't see anything wrong with this approach. The consensus on this site is that the bolts are the issue, not the gaskets. If they are TTY (Torque to Yield) then I deride Ford for their use in the first place. This was always the cause of 6.2 and 6.5 GM Diesel head gasket leaks and failures. You would think that by 2000+ they would have learned. Any serious motor uses studs in the heads and mains, and a 6.0 that makes these kinds of numbers, even stock should be factory equipped with studs, especially given that it's turbocharged. I used studs in the mains and heads in my NA 383 that I built for my Blazer and it won't approach the torque generated by a 6.0 on its best day.

UNBROKEN · 07-21-2007, 07:53 PM

Lubeowner has done it numerous times. I guess if there are no question about the integrity of the gaskets you could do them 1 at a time.
If you have any doubts though...have the heads pulled and checked to make sure they're true.

lubeowner · 07-21-2007, 08:21 PM

yes I have done it. Only on non-puking trucks. Never had a problem and have many trucks running for over 3 years.

TKOPerformance · 07-21-2007, 10:21 PM

lubeowner, is it possible to change the headbolts out for studs without either pulling the motor or pulling the cab off the chassis? Any tips you can offer on the install?

lubeowner · 07-22-2007, 10:33 AM

people have done it. I never have and would not recommend anyone try. I can have a Cab up in 1.25 hrs. Then it is just easy to work on. I like to work smarter and not harder. The first time I changed my injectors I did it with the cab on. The second set I pulled the cab just to change injectors. It really just cuts down on the fustration factor that you get owrking in the tight spots.

TKOPerformance · 07-22-2007, 10:51 PM

I looked it over today and couldn't see it being possible. I think the driver's side maybe if you pulled a bunch of the clutter out of the way, but the passenger's side with the heater box I jsut don't see how it's even possible. For such a big truck there is no space under the hood.

When you lift the cab do you remove it, or just move it upwards with a lift? What's the procedure for this operation?