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IPR Remote Oil Cooler 10k Report

19K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  323flint 
#1 ·
I thought I would post some info and pictures about my IPR remote oil cooler, filter, and Gen3 EGR delete. I had new heads with machined stainless o-rings installed this winter and I added the IPR remote oil cooler because I had a gut feeling there was a ton of crud in my engine.

I currently have 182k on the engine and swapped to red elc coolant and Diesel Site filter at 92k. At 172k I saw radically rising oil temps and decided to use Restore and Restore+ to see if I could squeek another year out before going into the engine. In the middle of flushing I noticed the putrid smell of diesel and finally realized it was in the coolant!.....mmmm....not good.

So, I started gathering information and parts and had a local friend who's repair shop has done 8 previous sets of 6.0 heads. They swapped out the heads and I immediately brought the truck home and did a full Restore and Restore+ clean and flush. Between the before repair flushes (2 restore 1 restore+) and post repair flushes (restore and restore+), I bought well over 100 gallons of distilled water at WalMart.

Immediately after cleaning and flushing I finished the install of the IPR remote oil cooler and filter and thought I was good to go....wrong!

I immediately had hot oil temps.....hmmmm. Filter was clogged. I cleaned it and it plugged AGAIN within 5 minutes of high idle.

Long story short, I cleaned the filter well over 50 times in the first couple thousand miles. I had some kind of silica and rust pit in my engine.

I think the problem with typical coolant filters is they are a low flow bypass that isn't getting enough velocity to catch the goods. With the IPR filter, my truck would go about 20 minutes and then clog. If I revved it at all, much, much less. Higher rev's stirred the crap up, clogging the filter.

I also think the problem with flushes is that the bulk of the sediment falls into places in the engine that don't get drained well after shutting the engine off.

As the weather got hotter I started catching goo, presumably from the mixture of combustion gasses of leaking headgaskets and diesel in the coolant.

I feel most certain that had I installed a factory location oil cooler I would have been going back into my engine again. I am up to 2-3k miles between cleanings depending on how the truck is being used.

If the coolant filter completely clogs, the dummy cooler in the engine cools enough that you can keep driving it and not be stranded.

The IPR remote cooler, filter, and Gen3 Egr delete are very high quality products supported by a very helpful, easy to get ahold of guy.
 

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#2 ·
Here is the dummy filter/exchanger that replaces the factory filter in the engine valley.
 

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#5 ·
Eli, how difficult is it to change the oil filter with the oil lines on the cover?
 
#7 ·
26k Miles on the IPR Remote Filter

I now have 26k on the remote filter setup from IPR. I'm not sure what the heck was inside my engine, but I am still getting crap in the coolant filter. I feel without a doubt I would have had to go back and replace my oil cooler had I not gone this route that filters 100% of the coolant before it goes to the cooler. I think I would have a coffee can of grit had I saved all of my cleanings. Mind you, this was after multiple flushes.

In cold weather the coolant warms the oil and keeps the oil 12-14 degrees below coolant temp as it warms up. It's nice to see the oil temps warm up pretty quickly. I am not a fan of long idle time and prefer to get the truck on the road and drive it easy as it warms up. I live on a back country road and it's easy to drive slow for a mile or two.

Overall, I am completely satisfied with the kit. I see that bulletproof offers a similar kit. It's interesting because when I was researching what remote kit to use, I read multiple posts of Bulletproof preaching that oil to water was not the way to go. Now they make an oil to water kit? :brickwall:
 
#8 ·
Interesting happening a couple days ago. I pulled down a snowy steep unplowed incline and got half stuck. It took about 30 runs in reverse to make it back up the hill. The incline and shuddering as the tires spun kicked loose a bunch of crud and plugged a freshly cleaned coolant filter. There must have been crud sitting in a "cavern" that was jolted loose by the incline and shuddering.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the update!
 
#10 ·
Any suggestions?

Hello guys, thank you for all the info.. I was looking at the IPR Gem 3 delete, new oil cooler and an IPR coolant filter. After speaking with Vince at IPR and some research, it seems several people have flushed their system, replaced their oil cooler and a few months later their temps start rising. Now I'm looking to go with the IPR external oil cooler, GEN 3 delete, and IPR coolant filter. Would you guys recommend buying an extra coolant filter? Would you guys recommend flushing before the swap or just let the particles naturally filter over time? Last would you recommend going with the GEN 2 coolant filter that comes with a built in bypass for when the filter clogs?

Thanks Guys,
Paul
 
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