Upgrades and Aftermarket - 6.0L EngineUpgrading and adding aftermarket equipment to your 2003-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
I just ordered a 4 inch turbo back MBRP and am hoping to get to install it this coming weekend. The only part I am worried about doing is the downpipe cause I have heard some horror stories on trying to get these things in and out. Can any of you guys that have done this before enlighten me on any tip or tricks to help get the old one out and new one in much easier? Or is it really not as bad some people let on? Thanks alot!
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2006 F-350 XLT,FX4 4X4,CC,SRW,LWB,6.0, auto
Make your first cut on the bottom of the downpipe near the firewall. 2nd cut at bend near top of downpipe next to turbo. It may help to loosen turbo band clamp and use pipe for leverage underneath to loosen any seal that may have formed between downpipe collar and turbo flange. Then snug the band clamp back up to make your cuts with the sawzall. A longer sawzall blade really helps making the top cut. Once you cut the bend at the top, the downpipe should almost hit the floor, cake from there. During instal, you want your new downpipe leaning more to the drivers side than the passenger side of the truck. Reason is, if downpipe is aimed more to passenger side, cat or test pipe hanger tends to 'bang' against the inner frame rail. The rest is pretty straight forward. A little WD-40 or lube of your choice makes slipping the metal hangers out of the rubber donuts a lot easier.
__________________ 03/03 (Original Factory Flash) F250 SC Lariat FX4 6L, AIC, TS Auto; 6 Bilstein 5125's; Rancho Steering Stabilizer; Toyo AT 305/70/R16E's on 16x8's; Tuff Country 2 1/2" Level kit; 2" rear add-a-leaf; UTE Bumper; Turbo Back Cool Duels; Autometer Phantom Pyro, Boost, Trans, Volt gauges; Hella 4000 Euro's; Hella Micro DE Fog's; SUV headlight harness & Hella 80/100 9007's; Clear Corners; Billet Grille; 2x60 watt battery heaters; 250 watt oil pan heater; Delo 5w40 Synthetic; Compustar Remote Start/Alarm; My Truck
I cut my DP one time to get it out. If you get under the truck and cut it as far up as you can you can maneuver it out of there pretty easy. What was a pain was getting the band clamp off the DP. It had been on there a long time and was stuck. With a screwdriver we were able to pop it loose and then it just came right out.
The DP is not that hard at all. I would not go cutting by the firewall inside the engine compartment though because we got it out by cutting it from underneath pretty easily.
Get a SawsAll and cut the pipe right after the muffler where you don’t have to remove the shock mount as well. That will save some time.
I did the install by myself and took me a little under 2 hours to remove the stock system and put in the new one.
IHpower
If I am not mistaken, if you can get your truck on a lift, you should be able to get it out with out cutting it. If a lift is not available, than only one cut as far up from the bottom is all that is needed to get the down pipe out. You will also have to remove spair tire and cut it back by the muffler also. Check to make sure you have the new designed down pipe ( should have a flat end to put a gasket between the down pipe and Cat.). If you have the older type Do Not Install it as it is EXTREMELY hard to get to seal. I have tried to get mine to seal multiple times and MBRP knows about the problem but just wants us to band-aid it. Some people put blocks of wood between the exhaust/Cat and frame to ensure proper clearance. Take your time and make sure all connections are fully seated before you tighten up or they will leak also.
Good Luck
TasMan
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2004/04 Engine,King Ranch,F-250,4x4,SWB,3.73 LS, Adjustable pedals,Reverse sensor,Moon roof,clearance lights, Power rear window,Heated seats,Bedliner, DPPI T-409 Turbo Back, AFE Pro-Guard7, C-Bet'r mirror, Fumoto drain valve, AIC, Extange Tonneu, Lund SS Interceptor, Siver Star Bulbs, Harpooned tank, SUV double wiring harness, Bright Box, Clifford RS 3.5 alarm, 3" Edge Plush Ride, Bilstein Shocks, Westin Sportsman CPS Grille Guard, XM Commander wired in with a PIE Adapter, Eagle 137 series rims and Bridgestone Revos 285/75-16, Husky Liner Mud Flaps.
You don’t have to remove your spare tire. I have an ’04 and just cut the exhaust off behind the muffler and it came out just fine without removing the spare tire or unbolting the shock mount. Cutting is much faster than taking all that junk off…chop it up!!
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You don’t have to remove your spare tire. I have an ’04 and just cut the exhaust off behind the muffler and it came out just fine without removing the spare tire or unbolting the shock mount. Cutting is much faster than taking all that junk off…chop it up!!
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HD_F250
I hear what you are saying but removing the spair will give you more room and is very simple to do. I said nothing about removing shock mount. Also, I wish I would have been able to keep my original exhaust intact, incase I would need to install for warranty work. My dealer has given me a lot of greaf over how the MBRP seals to cat and I wish I had old down pipe to install when I took it in for new headgaskets. I got in there and just went to cutting also but if I did it again I would do it different!!
TasMan
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2004/04 Engine,King Ranch,F-250,4x4,SWB,3.73 LS, Adjustable pedals,Reverse sensor,Moon roof,clearance lights, Power rear window,Heated seats,Bedliner, DPPI T-409 Turbo Back, AFE Pro-Guard7, C-Bet'r mirror, Fumoto drain valve, AIC, Extange Tonneu, Lund SS Interceptor, Siver Star Bulbs, Harpooned tank, SUV double wiring harness, Bright Box, Clifford RS 3.5 alarm, 3" Edge Plush Ride, Bilstein Shocks, Westin Sportsman CPS Grille Guard, XM Commander wired in with a PIE Adapter, Eagle 137 series rims and Bridgestone Revos 285/75-16, Husky Liner Mud Flaps.
Well, my way was strictly based on throwing away the stock stuff.
Some of the F-250's you can remove the back pipe from the muffler (03 I think). Mine was not like that. If I would have removed the spare I could have pulled it all through the front, but it was faster for me to just cut off the back part since I was not ever intending on using it again anyhow.
When I got done I threw everything in the garbage...if they won't warranty it then I won't buy another truck from them...bottom line.
I just installed my MBRP Cool Duals this past Saturday. I took off my downpipe, and my tailpipe without cutting either. Takes more time, but may need it in case I have to go back to the dealer. To get the tailpipe out in 1 piece, I just jacked up the back of the truck using the trailer hitch so the axle would droop down. Then I just pulled it out thru the front. To get the downpipe out, I removed the trans cross member, and jacked up the front of my truck using the snowplow brackets to allow the front axle to droop. All in all, the hardest part by far, was removing the old exhaust, installing the new one was easy, would have been even easier had I bought a single instead of Duals. But, damn do they sound good! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] The whole thing took me, and a friend about 2-3 hours. Good luck, and don't forget to take a few beer breaks. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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2005 F-350 4x4 Supercab, Lariat, LWB, SRW, FX4, 6.0, Auto. Oxford White/Arizona Beige. MBRP SS Turbo-back Cool Duals-Cat Delete Pipe, DieselSite coolant filter, Mag-Hytec dif cover, Royal Purple Syn. lube in axles, 325-65/R18 Nitto Terra Grapplers on Weld Evo Cheyenne-8 18x8.5 wheels. Fabtech 2" Leveling kit, Bilstein 5100's. Precision Billet grille, Lund Interceptor, Husky liners, Rhino liner, Weatherguard toolbox, 8' Western Ultramount Poly Pro snowplow, 15% tint. Built 12/04
I just installed my Cool Duals 4" MBRP T-back exhaust Saturday on my 05 F-350 in my garage with no lift or ramps and I did exactly what HD_F250 did. I cut the downpipe once at the bottom near the bend and loosened the band clamp on the turbo with the 11mm deep socket. My truck has 7,000 miles on it and the dp was indeed stuck on there. I got under the truck and just start wiggling it and then a little harder and it busted loose. I removed the band clamp from the dp and slowly and carefully brought it down and out after a couple tries. Not difficult at all, you just have to be a little patient.
The new 3.5" dp from MBRP does go up from the bottom but just make sure not to put the band clamp on until after you push it up. I made the mistake of putting it on first and then trying to force it up. The fire wall almost ripped and then I came to my senses and took it off. Just get the new dp snug with the band clamp on the turbo so you can adjust it once you add additional pipe underneath.
I didn't remove the spare tire and just went ahead and cut the tailpipe off. I used the spare tire as a gauge to where the new dual pipes go because if it's not there then you may have to adjust everything when you go to put it back in.
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