2nd batch biodiesel from WVO - emulsion breaking, etc - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels Discussion of biodiesel (homegrown or store bought) and other alternative fuels for diesel-powered vehicles.

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Old 08-24-2011, 02:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Arrow 2nd batch biodiesel from WVO - emulsion breaking, etc

So I finally got around to a second batch of biodiesel. This time from waste fryer oil from a buddy of mine's pub.

Here's part1 - filtering the used oil, heating, mixing with methoxide, glycerol separation.

Here's part2 and how we deal with a nasty emulsion problem while water washing:
then drying, filter setup, etc.

This batch is done today. Looks great. Nice and clear. Much darker amber though when compared with biodiesel from first batch made from virgin leftover oil.

Bought 200L drum of methanol. Figure cost is around $0.25/L cdn for my finished fuel, not incl a couple hours labour. Not bad at all. Less money for the "MAN".
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Old 08-24-2011, 09:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Making biodiesel seems like a lot of trouble compared to blending gasoline with waste oils. The biodiesel process works only with vegetable and animal fats; whereas blending works with either mineral or vegetable; however, blending does not work with hydrogenated oils or animal fats. So, the biodiesel process could be employed on these fat sources, then further thinned and anti-gelled with gasoline.
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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if youre getting that much soap youve got a water problem and/or the oil is highly acidic. my oil titrates at 3 or less(usually 1.5). good job though. feels good telling the man to take a hike dont it ;0)
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Old 08-29-2011, 12:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I can't watch your video right now, but the easiest way we've found to break an emulsion was to add glycerin (from previous batches) to the emulsion and let it settle out. Last time we did that we pumped the emulsion into cubies (1/2 full) and topped off cubies with glycerin. The water/glycerin quickly settled out...

Depending on what method you are using, 'pre-treating' your WVO with glycerin from previous batches may increase your yield by utilizing some of the unused chems still present in the glycerin (while also helping to drop out that last bit of water that may be present!).
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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it looks like youre pouring out the entire cubbie into your heating drum... the best thing you can do is stop pouring when you get down to bottom 1/4 or so.. then you can combine all the leftover cubbies let them settle and start again..
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Are you titrating properly? Or is your hydroxide/water testing solution off? That much soap indicates you've got too much KOH in solution with the methanol.

I recommend that you investigate either the GL 1 Day process or using wood chips to drywash the biodiesel.

Both methods eliminate the need for water in the biodiesel process, exceed ASTM standards and are very simple to use and maintain.
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Also,

I use a military surplus M67 immersion heater to remove water from the oil and to speed up the dropout of crumbs to the bottom of the oil.

M67 Immersion Heater for removing water from WVO Part 1 - YouTube

I have put a series of vids on youtube showing the operation of this handy gadget.
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Old 10-04-2011, 02:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Yes, I was originally using a KOH recipe from extremebiodiesel website... well they had 13 as their KOH base number!!! WAY too high. They called for say 2600 grams KOH and the standard recipe was 1951 grams for the same oil!

You could say it had too much KOH! LOL

Haven't tried the glycerol addition from previous batch yet.

I may get a centrifuge separator at some point if I go through enough oil. Just finished batch #4. No emulsion with less KOH but still slightly uncooperative.... ie. 4.5 titration!

It's the greatest thing though... making your own fuel.
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Old 10-04-2011, 02:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffrey S Brooks View Post
Making biodiesel seems like a lot of trouble compared to blending gasoline with waste oils. The biodiesel process works only with vegetable and animal fats; whereas blending works with either mineral or vegetable; however, blending does not work with hydrogenated oils or animal fats. So, the biodiesel process could be employed on these fat sources, then further thinned and anti-gelled with gasoline.
Not to knock running waste oil but you've gotta use a centrifuge to get the crud out... depending on your used oil it could have metal powder in there, etc (used engine or trans oil) that a filter won't get out. As far as WVO goes, I like my injectors and prefer to remove the glycerine and other nasties. The canola based fryer oil I use has a reasonably low temperature gel point. In winter I'll just add 10-25% petro diesel that I add thinners to... perhaps it's more expensive than gasoline but I figure that's a better way.

Never mind what some people are using, that diesels*cret garbage additive (xylene)... wouldn't want to breath that smoke.
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2009 VW Jetta 2.0TDI 6spd Highline full load except nav. 19" Audi RS6 rims. REVO tuned. AS7609 navi head unit 7" touch, Custom fiberglass box MD Sound 12" & Boss NXD5500 amp. Tint is next.
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westvandude View Post
Not to knock running waste oil but you've gotta use a centrifuge to get the crud out...
Those who blend gasoline (petrol) with their WVO, and let that blend settle for 24-48 hours before filtering find that most of the crud precipitates out of solution, so there is no need for a centrifuge when using WVO as a source oil. However, WMO, on the other hand, tends to be so dirty that no amount of settling seems to get rid of enough of the crud, so a centrifuge is useful on that course oil.

Last edited by Jeffrey S Brooks; 10-05-2011 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 10-04-2011, 04:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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FWIW you don't need to filter your WVO to that extreme, all the particles will fall out of the biodiesel and into the glycerin in the end. Use a sock, remove the big stuff, and crank out some bio.

Look into to using Sodium Hydroxide instead of Potassium, cheaper and takes less. I have created a titration caluclated spreadsheet if you would like to see.

Best of luck and welcome to BIO
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:24 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Been a while since I lurked on here....

I've made about 4600L of bio now. Gained lots of experience along the way. Last xmas I got a WVOdesigns centrifuge so I run all my wvo thru it prior to making bio. Still on KOH.

I get the methanol and KOH thru my work no charge so my end cost is filters, electricity, water.

Next step will be to build or buy a dry wash tower(s). Just saving up for it.

Here in Vancouver, BC the gov't adds $0.10/L of transit taxes and they are looking for another $0.10/L!! So glad to at least get the truck off pump diesel. 09' Jetta 2.0 TDI so far I haven't risked it. I did get a revo technik tune on it a few months ago... really woke it up. It's as fun to drive as a GTI now.
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2009 VW Jetta 2.0TDI 6spd Highline full load except nav. 19" Audi RS6 rims. REVO tuned. AS7609 navi head unit 7" touch, Custom fiberglass box MD Sound 12" & Boss NXD5500 amp. Tint is next.
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