Best for Bio - Diesel Forum

Crosscountry bound · 09-20-2009, 02:42 PM

I want to buy an F350 Crew. I make Biodiesel and run my greenhouse heater and Kubota tractor on it. I'm buying the truck for work and (with a slide-in camper) a cross country trip soon so I need a dependable truck I can run on Bio when I'm home working. I've been told to stay away from the newer models because of the chip not liking bio and generally making life more difficult. My question is what year(s) might be best? Any preference? Warranty would be nice.

baroy68 · 09-21-2009, 06:20 PM

I have a 2001 7.3 and run home brew biodiesel. I run throught roughly 50 gallons a month at a percentage from B100 to no B and have never had a problem in the past five years, knock on wood. I've read that 7.3 are the best with alternative fuels due to the low pressure fuel system. Performance wise I really can't tell the diffence, diffrent smell is all. I can run Bio all year round (live in south texas), % wise has to be cut in the winter. At around 30 - 40 degrees a low low %. Hope this helps. My choice would be a 7.3..

Dirtcheap · 09-22-2009, 10:50 PM

i have run b100 for the last 10k miles and my partner has almost 40k with no issues... mines a 2000 7.3 excursion.. his 01 250 7.3... i use diesel kleen and 25% reg diesel in the winter... in my freezer testing it was still liquid @ 6 degrees ...

BiodieselPlace · 09-22-2009, 11:52 PM

What they said.
7.3 motor will tolerate good B100 and not so good batches of B100 (that's the key). I've had a 96 F250 7.3 for a few years making and running B100.

2 issues:

1- You will eventually need to changes the fuel rail hoses to a B100 resistant hose like Viton or an SAE 30R9 grade (fule injection grade hose). You can search this site, or others on the subject. I can help as well.

2- I have had to replace my fuel lift pump twice for leaks. I believe this is due to B100. Next time it leaks, I will make the change to electric pump system (airdog or the likes).

On the other hand, I have owned a 2006 6.0 and run B100 without any issues for 20K miles. They are much LESS tolerant of bad biodiesel (bio that has not been washed well or is not fully converted (not 100% reacted)). It will run just fine with ASTM grade B100.

It's ALL about the QUALITY of your biodiesel. Good quality B100 does not create any issues whatsoever in these motors. Make sure you test for conversion before your wash (so you can re-process it if needed) then check for soaps at the end to verify completeness of wash. Same applies for waterless washing. I personnaly water wash because it does a much better job at remove contaminants, residual glycerine, residual methanol, residual KOH (or NaOH) etc...

OK enough said...

kevinj1 · 09-23-2009, 05:59 AM

I have been running my own BD or blend in the winter for the last 16 months and 24K miles. I would buy an early build '03 with a 7.3L. That may take while to find but it will be well worth it.

Crosscountry bound · 09-23-2009, 08:47 AM

Thanks everybody for your advice. Bruce, What's your test for completeness/wash Do you dry?

StorminNorman · 09-23-2009, 12:18 PM

Quote:

What's your test for completeness/wash Do you dry?

The test for complete reaction, short of an ASTM sampling, is called a 27/3 test. The test for washing requires a soap test kit, available here.

If you water wash, then you must also dry.

Norman

BiodieselPlace · 09-24-2009, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crosscountry bound

Thanks everybody for your advice. Bruce, What's your test for completeness/wash Do you dry?

You need to dry as well if you water wash. All you need to do is pump the bio through a misting spray head in a drum. Works best if you heat the bio to 140F or higher. There are different spray heads out there and I carry some as well. For completeness of reaction, just like Stormin said, 27/3 test. Plenty of literature on this at infopop. As for soap, yes you can pay for a soap test kit, but I have found that using the "shakem" test, you will get a visual result. This test requires you to put approx. 1 part bio into 1 part of clear water in a clear bottle. Shake a little and let settle a few minutes. If the water is hazy (milky), then there is soap remaining in the bio. I know this is not a sicntific method, but with a crystal clear shakem test, you definitely have much less soap in your bio. This test can also give you a clue about completeness of reaction. There should not be a middle layer between the bio (on top) and the water on the bottom. If there is, then it is probably an emulsion layer meaning there is some triglycerides remaining (non converted oil)....

StorminNorman · 09-25-2009, 03:05 PM

The "Shake Em Up Test" is not considered reliable. The only way to accurately measure the soap content of bio diesel is to titrate it. Cut and paste from Rick Da Tech's site:

******

"The Shakem Up Test
This test is widely used by home brewers to determine if their biodiesel is finished washing. The test calls for equal parts of water and biodiesel. Shake. If the biodiesel and/or water separate quickly and the wash water is clear then the biodiesel is finished washing. This test does not provide enough contact between the water and the biodiesel to provide accurate information. The water on bottom can still be clear while the biodiesel is loaded with soap and glycerine."

*******

My testing has shown improved results when a centrifuge is used to separate the water content after shaking it. A tube that is allowed to set and settle out clear, then reshaken and centrifuged would fail with a very small soap layer between the water and bio phases. Subsequent soap titration on that sample stock, which passed the shake test originally, would show soap levels above ASTM specs which are 60 PPM for KOH reacted fuel.

Norman

Anyone reading this please disregard. I have been informed (via PM) that no body here likes me or my posts, I guess Brucie took a poll among you. I bruised somebodies little ego and his inferiority complex showed. Sorry to have taken up so much of your time these last few years. I will let the uninformed continue to lead the unknowing, hope it works for you. I don't need the name calling for trying to help somebody avoid tearing up their equipment.

Norman

Crosscountry bound · 09-29-2009, 09:13 AM

Thank you all for your info. I ordered the test kits so we'll see how well I've processed. Not that my Kubota is complaining. I could probably shove donuts in the tank and it would run!

So I've found 2003 F350 at a good price and only 60K mi. with a 7.3 in it. The owner says it has an Edge Attitude Chip with Monitoring system. Any comments on that? I'll get the vin and have an Oasis done on it. Anything else I should ask. Do I also need a CARFAX?

BiodieselPlace · 09-30-2009, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crosscountry bound

Thank you all for your info. I ordered the test kits so we'll see how well I've processed. Not that my Kubota is complaining. I could probably shove donuts in the tank and it would run!

So I've found 2003 F350 at a good price and only 60K mi. with a 7.3 in it. The owner says it has an Edge Attitude Chip with Monitoring system. Any comments on that? I'll get the vin and have an Oasis done on it. Anything else I should ask. Do I also need a CARFAX?

That's the "perfect" truck.
The last model year they made the 7.3, and with 60K miles!
Sure, make certain you do your due dilligence.
I don't think OASIS will show any title problems, so definately Carfax also. You never know what you'll find. Worth the $30.00 or so.
Why is he selling it?

Crosscountry bound · 10-01-2009, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BiodieselPlace

That's the "perfect" truck.
The last model year they made the 7.3, and with 60K miles!
Sure, make certain you do your due dilligence.
I don't think OASIS will show any title problems, so definately Carfax also. You never know what you'll find. Worth the $30.00 or so.
Why is he selling it?

He says he no longer needs it..... we'll see. He sent the vin right away and says the CARFAX is clean.

Crosscountry bound · 10-05-2009, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BiodieselPlace

That's the "perfect" truck.
The last model year they made the 7.3, and with 60K miles!
Sure, make certain you do your due dilligence.
I don't think OASIS will show any title problems, so definately Carfax also. You never know what you'll find. Worth the $30.00 or so.
Why is he selling it?

I just met with the owner and he really doesn't need a truck. Everything looks super about this truck. I'll get the Oasis tomorrow. He mentioned he "had the cam shaft done" Why would that be a problem at only >60K mi? Should I be aware of some engine problem? Also someone said something about 'chipping' a truck for better performance being a bad thing. This truck has a chip set-up with 5 modes. Good? Bad?

BiodieselPlace · 10-06-2009, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crosscountry bound

I just met with the owner and he really doesn't need a truck. Everything looks super about this truck. I'll get the Oasis tomorrow. He mentioned he "had the cam shaft done" Why would that be a problem at only >60K mi? Should I be aware of some engine problem? Also someone said something about 'chipping' a truck for better performance being a bad thing. This truck has a chip set-up with 5 modes. Good? Bad?

It's like any truck you buy.
Make sure you inspect it or have it inspected by a qualified diesel mechanic.
Things to look for are blow-by, worn turbo impeller blades (compressor side). Have a contribution test done. Check oil, HPOP pressure etc...
I think he might have been talking about the CPS (camshaft position sensor). That is a common sensor failure and I beleive was a recall. If it is chipped, it should have gages. A chip will increase performance, but can lead to bad things if you don't monitor you engine's parameters, especially EGT and transmission temp. I would ask questions about prior use, especially commercial, but, 60K miles is very very little for that truck. Barelly broken in.

Good luck!