BioFuel "eating" fuel lines? - Diesel Forum

deadbolt · 09-27-2007, 05:38 AM

I just started using B100 from Keystone BioFuels. Excellent product and truck runs great. Not sure what I will do about winter usage and fuel line heating.

However, I noticed that two of the fuel lines running alongside the High Pressure Oil Pump were "wet". They are "gummy" to the touch and I believe it is an indication of fuel line rubber degradation.

Does anyone have a source / link for synthetic rubber fuel lines. Two of the Ford dealers have not been able to help. BTW: Truck is 1996 and I thought that I would not have this problem due to the year, but I do and I need to repair - solve the problem before it gets worse.

thanks in advance for your responses!

hheynow · 09-27-2007, 10:44 AM

Those are the return lines. Mine melted last year and replace them with THIS . Fluoroe lastomer is the same as Viton.

deadbolt · 09-27-2007, 10:37 PM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hheynow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Those are the return lines. Mine melted last year and replace them with THIS . Fluoroe lastomer is the same as Viton. </div></div>

hheynow! Thanks for the tip. But what about the fittings? Are they not "crimped" on?
Deadbolt!

hheynow · 09-28-2007, 12:54 AM

That was all removed. I used 1/4 ID Dayco Gen 2 hose for both hoses. All four ends have push on hose barbs with SAE 45* female swivels.

RickHredf250 · 09-28-2007, 08:27 AM

I took some of the lines to a hyd shop and they made me new ones from Park Low Permeation, so far so good. Cost about 27 bucks for both lines.
Rick H...

deadbolt · 09-28-2007, 09:07 AM

Thanks for your help guys! I will address the hose issue this weekend. And while I'm on the BioFuel issue, let me ask you what brand/type of fuel line and tank heaters you all use? I would like to run B100 during the winter months if possible.

hheynow · 09-28-2007, 02:21 PM

Fuel line? It's 100% Dayco Gen 2 (front veggie & rear tank) 3/8" for supply & 5/16" for return. I have the Hot Fox intank heater. It's the BEST! It takes hose barbs so using the Dayco is easy. For your coolant loop to heat the Hot Fox I tapped into both heater core line with a tee in each. Use 1/2" ID coolant hose for maximum heat transfer.

deadbolt · 10-01-2007, 12:56 PM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hheynow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That was all removed. I used 1/4 ID Dayco Gen 2 hose for both hoses. All four ends have push on hose barbs with SAE 45* female swivels. </div></div>

HHeyNow: Are you saying that the fittings were the crimp style and that you replaced those with barb style?

Appreciate yer help!
Deadbolt!

hheynow · 10-03-2007, 12:52 PM

Yup

deadbolt · 10-12-2007, 10:44 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hheynow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yup </div></div>

How in the heck did you get the lower fitting off on the right side head. The a/c compressor is blocking access. Any suggestions?

Deadbolt

hheynow · 10-12-2007, 11:22 AM

Let me be more articulate. The two 90* fittings on both heads are still there. I have the matching female push-lock swivels/hose barbs connected to these fittings which connect to the two 1/4" Dayco Gen 2 hoses. Where they connect to the FPR I use the same size fittings that are in each head (90* 1/4 male NPT X 1/4" male SAE 45* flair tip).

Yes you will need to remove some things to install the fittings BUT think of it as a permanent fix/solution to melting lines. Should the hoses fail in the future, just remove the hose clamps, cut off the bad hose and replace on the push-locks.

JOAT · 10-12-2007, 11:48 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Deadbolt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
How in the heck did you get the lower fitting off on the right side head. The a/c compressor is blocking access. Any suggestions?
Deadbolt </div></div>

That would be the left head [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

Pull the four ac bolds and move it out of the way. 3 bolts IIRC hold the AC bracket on and with that out of the way you have tons of room to work. Just did the hose thing myself a few months ago.

I did something similar, used fittings 1/4" barb on one end to flare (JIC4?) from a hose shop. Hose I used is standard SAE30R9 FI Hose from Kragens. Barrier lined so impervious to biofuel.

deadbolt · 10-12-2007, 04:24 PM

Thanks JOAT!
And yer right it would be left. I was looking at it from the front of the engine. QUESTION? Did you have to drain the A/C unit and don't you have to remove the serpentine belt also?

I may have made a mistake by getting 1/4" fittings "Russell" brand! Annodized aluminum fitting broke off while tighting down the first hose assembly I was making up. Might be a better idea to have a hydraulic shop make up the hose for me.

JOAT · 10-13-2007, 01:23 AM

Well, yeah, remove the serpentine belt. But leave the hoses on the ac and just move it out of the way as much as you can, don't drain it. It won't move far enough to stay out of the way by itself, but you can use rope or such to tie it back out of the way.

The barbed pushlock fittings at a hydraulic shop will work fine without breaking, but use a clamp for non-pushlock hose. You can otherwise have them make a hose of course. I'd then go with stainless braid sheathed teflon hose, and it should last a lifetime easy. They make that stuff for show cars all the time, but if you have them use industrial fittings and not the fancy anodized ones, it's pretty inexpensive. Should be cheaper than from Ford by over half.

deadbolt · 10-13-2007, 12:30 PM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JOAT</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well, yeah, remove the serpentine belt. But leave the hoses on the ac and just move it out of the way as much as you can, don't drain it. It won't move far enough to stay out of the way by itself, but you can use rope or such to tie it back out of the way.

The barbed pushlock fittings at a hydraulic shop will work fine without breaking, but use a clamp for non-pushlock hose. You can otherwise have them make a hose of course. I'd then go with stainless braid sheathed teflon hose, and it should last a lifetime easy. They make that stuff for show cars all the time, but if you have them use industrial fittings and not the fancy anodized ones, it's pretty inexpensive. Should be cheaper than from Ford by over half.</div></div>

Sorry JOAT, don't know what I was thinking re: serpentine belt. I'll let this site know my successful results when I work on this project next week.

It's starting to get colder here in central PA. We had 35 F last night and I've got to start to plan a heating system if I'm going to continue to run B100 during the winter. I have a 100 gal. aux tank as well as my dual truck tanks and that may turn out to be an interesting and somewhat costly challenge. On top of that, I have 3 diesel powered tractors that I would like to continue to run B100. How do you have your vehicles set up for winter use?

Deadbolt.