Coolant filtration & WVO heating

[ToddT]

I work with chemicals, pumps, hoses and fittings at work. I'm trying to apply some of my "school of hard knocks" lessons to my WVO system. Here' some of my thinking... and again, I'm open for suggestions to further improve the system.

I want to add coolant filtration, likely to use the Evans NGC. I also want to add the heater core bypass for use in the summertime. AND I want to send the coolant through the WVO tank. Working on the plumbing plan... hmmm.

Some folks do a by-pass coolant filtration so that it is isolated from the standard flow (port from the water pump). That way, if the filter clogs it won't stop up the whole works. Good idea?

Where should I tie in the WVO tank heater hose? I'm thinking it should be downstream of the heater core by-pass and and run all coolant flow through the tank.

I think I should use the largest hose practical to reduce the demand on the water pump. Its amazing the difference in pressure by just raising the hose size 1/8". Straight runs and minimal hard 90's will also make a big difference.

The greasel hose looks like it is a smooth finish material like teflon or something. That smooth bore will help compared to a rubber hose that is somewhat rougher on the ID. If I don't use the greasel hose, any suggestions? The temp may be a big factor as many hoses top out at 135 degrees. I'll look for something with at least a 250 degree working temp.

Suggestions?

Thanks again... I hope to have my WVO system designed, fabricated and installed this summer.

[Ford_Forgotton]

well, I would think your going to want the hottest coolant you can get to the tank, so use the OUTPUT of the engine block (where it would normally go to the heater core) and send THAT to your oil tank.

Bring it back and plumb it into your heater core. You will know your oil temp just by feeling your heater ducts!!!

Then, you can still use the port on the thermistat housing for a coolant filter (trust me, you want a coolant filter on the PSD).

As for hose diameters, I guess I would use whatever the heater core hose size it.

[cgoodwin]

Excuse my ignorance but why do you need a coolant filter???

CHris

[Ford_Forgotton]

The coolant that is used in diesel trucks that have a "wet sleeve" (meaning the cylinder wall is in contact with the coolant) has to have a special additive in order to prevent "Cavitation". Cavitation is caused by water microscopically removing a small bit of the cylinder liner during each ignition inside the cylinder. Over time, it will actually eat through the cylinder liner.

The special additive creates a layer of sacrificial material on the cylinder liner and it is THAT layer that gets picked away. That material then floats around in your coolant and acts as sand. It will tear up waterpump seals over time.

The coolant filter traps the particles and over time will save your engine and waterpump seals.

The powerstroke engine as used in COMMERCIAL trucks has an integrated coolant filter. Ford decided to remove that integrated coolant filter. I dont have a clue why, but Im sure it had to do with cost cutting.

[cgoodwin]

Interesting,
Do you know if the Detroit Diesel 6v92TA has this same design issue???

Chris

[Ford_Forgotton]

All diesels with a "wet sleeve" have this issue.

BIG RIGS use a removable sleeve that they just replace. The light duty trucks like ours are CAST and have to be sleeved and honed to fix. Much more intense.

Small tractors and gensets where the cylinder wall does NOT come in contact with water DO NOT have the cavitation problem.

[Lobstah]

Ford's 7.3ls were more susceptible than the 6.9s due to the 7.3s being a bored out 6.9 block, so the walls are thinner.

There are test strips you can buy at most Ford and IH service shops that allow you to test your coolant for the proper level of SCAs...

There are guys in the 6.9 forum that know the coolant deal inside and out.

Lob