Found a supplier, now I need supplies - Diesel Forum

sagebel · 03-16-2005, 02:02 PM

Where can I find a filter head and filters for WVO? For now, I am going to run 50/50 mix. I would like to filter down to 8 micron or lower. I already have a prefilter idea from seeing FN74's. Also, where do I find a heater for a 55 gallon drum that is easy to use? I would like to get all of this stuff locally (Napa, Grainger, Harbor Freight, etc...)

Scott

RazzyB · 03-16-2005, 02:10 PM

[ QUOTE ]
Where can I find a filter head and filters for WVO? For now, I am going to run 50/50 mix. I would like to filter down to 8 micron or lower. I already have a prefilter idea from seeing FN74's. Also, where do I find a heater for a 55 gallon drum that is easy to use? I would like to get all of this stuff locally (Napa, Grainger, Harbor Freight, etc...)

Scott

[/ QUOTE ]

Frybrid is local...[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

brian

girlmark · 03-16-2005, 03:47 PM

to build a really cheap heater:

get a metal 55 gallon drum, the type that's got two little bungs and is a 'closed head' design (ie not the type with one large lid).

Turn it bungs-side-down. Cut out what used to be the bottom which is now the top. You now have an open head drum with two plumbing ports in the bottom. They are pipe thread. Elevate the drum on some milk crates or cinderblocks so it's off the ground.

The larger bung is 2". You can buy a steel 2" x 1" plumbing bushing, and an electric hot water heater element. YOu can then wire the water heater element to a cord and use something to ground the ground wire of the cord to the drum also (or if you want to get fancy, wire an electric water heater thermostat in there as well , might need to do some welding there to weld on a clip to hold the thermostat against the drum. I welded some electrical boxes to my drums so that someone doesn't come over and get shocked touching all these live wires.) and use it to heat the drum.

It's very helpful to use insulation around the drum also otherwise it'll take forever to heat. You can insulate with fiberglass or with lots of layers of cardboard if you're cheap like me.

Mark

sagebel · 03-16-2005, 04:10 PM

I have found some 55 gallon drums with a full top. I have a welder so I think I can make your idea work. I am finding it difficult to find old water heaters here which sort of made me switch to WVO vice bio.

Scott

RazzyB · 03-16-2005, 04:16 PM

[ QUOTE ]
I have found some 55 gallon drums with a full top. I have a welder so I think I can make your idea work. I am finding it difficult to find old water heaters here which sort of made me switch to WVO vice bio.

Scott

[/ QUOTE ]

Scott, for a water heater, you might try Freecycle. I've gotten some stuff off there before.

brian

dbennett48 · 03-16-2005, 08:11 PM

I just got a filter head and hoses for a coolant filter on my 6.0. I don't see why you could not use the head and get a different filter for fuel. http://www.spdiesel.com/ Click on coolant filter for details.

Dave

girlmark · 03-16-2005, 10:41 PM

Maybe youre a good welder and this will be redundant info, but

be aware it's a royal pain to weld on drums- make sure you grind off the paint pretty well. I'm MIGging them now but it took a while to get the hang of it, try it on a sacrificial drum first. Brazing is much more practical for most people.

Mark

sagebel · 03-17-2005, 01:21 AM

Well, I think this post was good luck. I just got home with a 50 gallon water heater. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] I also found a guy that has 55 gallon drums today. $10 each. He is out right now but will be getting more soon. Some have bungs in the tops and some even on the sides about 4" from the bottom. As far as welding on the drums, I think that I will just drill a hole just big enough to fit a piece of pipe through and then weld it inside and out. Then coat the cleaned areas with POR-15. I would like to run a WVO/dino blend until I get the bio production figured out.

Scott

girlmark · 03-17-2005, 01:47 AM

what type of welding?

Mark

sagebel · 03-17-2005, 02:09 AM

MIG w/gas. I also have access to a TIG.

girlmark · 03-17-2005, 03:55 AM

Ok, just checking. You should be set for dealing with thin stuff (man, I want a TIG myself)

I've done what must be hundreds of hours of welding pipe pieces to thin metal barrels- easiest tip is to cut the pipe in half (thin cutoff wheel or bandsaw) and then cut the hole in the barrel SMALLER than the outer diameter of the pipe- edges of metal that thin are really easy to burn through> I can't say I"m a good welder but that unusually thin-to-thick stuff seems to trip up everybody I've seen do it.

Mark

CPUNeck · 03-17-2005, 06:05 AM

Thick to thin is challanging. I've found the mind set that I'm welding on the "thick" until I get a good puddle, then I bump the puddle toward the thin works great. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

sagebel · 03-17-2005, 11:09 AM

It doesn't have to be pretty, just functional. I won't have barrels for anothor week or so unless I can find another source. The ones that I am waiting on were used to transport ink in plastic liner bags so the barrels themselves are clean.

Scott

girlmark · 03-17-2005, 04:14 PM

but for it to stay liquid-tight, it's almost like making a 'pretty' weld (TIG should be no problem though). I"ve also found that even very minor contamination (like crap migrating into the weld bead from somethign that was on the inside of the drum- another reason not to make the hole bigger than the pipe piece) makes MUCH more of a problem than with ordinary structural welds.

Mark