I am just about to start my brewing endeavor. I am going to use a single 55 gal.drum for my reaction/wash/dry tank, brewing 40 gal. batches.
Here are my questions.
1. when adding the methoxide can I just pour it from carboy into the heated oil or does it have to be introduced slowly if so approx. how slow?
2. how long do I mix, then let settle before draining the glycerol?
3.I live in the burbs(housing tract) does any one have any suggestions on how to dispose of the glycerol properly?
4. My local Meth. retailer said the people around here are getting 300-340 gals. of bio per 55 gals. of meth. that is only 16-18 % I thought 20+% was needed to get full reaction?
Thanks Kevin
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Central, New York,2001 F-250 7.3L PSD Auto 4X4 CC,SB,LARIAT,All the bell & whistles.
189,xxx mi. and counting
ZooDad,10K mod._SW pyrometer_NAPA 6637 Filter_Walker BTM__203* t-stat_Harpooned and Hutched Tank
285/75R16 BFG All Terrian TA KO's
Fed by home brew BIODIESEL for the last 24K mi.
Its gettin kinda cool at night Now running "B80"
How are you going to mix the brew? That is what needs to determine how you add the methoxide. To get the best results the methoxide needs to be added slowly immediately ahead of the mixing pump. It is estimated that 70 to 80% of the reaction takes place when the pump impeller "thrashes" the methoxide into the oil. You will not get this kind of reaction with a simple stir motor. You would need something along the lines of a fast turning prop to fold and turn the oil over.
Accepted processing time is 2 hours at 135 degrees F. Some have experimented and say that the process is done in one hour. The extra hour is peace of mind to me, and I would rather let it mix for an extra hour than waste time and money to heat it up, add more chemicals and do it all over again. If you use KOH you will see the glycerine start to fall out immediately after you shut the mixing off. It is almost completely settled out in a couple hours. You can drain it at that time, but you loose some bio that is carried by the heavier glycerin into the bottom and needs time to float out to the top. I time mine so it goes to settle about the time I am ready to let it set overnight. If you are going to use NaOH, overnight settling is necessary.
To dispose of the glycerine, find a soap maker that will use it, check with your local waste water treatment plant to see if they have an aerobic digester to feed it to (microbes think it is a Snickers bar), or landfill it.
20 to 22% is accepted by the BD brewing community. There are those that insist that 13% will do the deed. I use 22% methanol and 9gr per liter KOH plus titration, both at the high side of the accepted amounts, and get fuel that flies thru 27/3 tests the first time, every time. I also recover methanol from my glyc, so extra is not an issue. Your methods can only be established by you, because you will find (gasp) that many of those that propose off the wall methods are full of unsubstanciated crap. "Gee, I thought that should work."
Get used to brewing using conventional tried and true methods and then tweak things until they are optimal.
Norman
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97 F250 CC PS Tymar intake, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, turbo muffler installed backwards, 299,000 miles, running B100 when possible. "NEW 90 F450
Last edited by StorminNorman : 03-06-2008 at 10:53 PM.
Thank you for all the info. I guess I will have to rethink my plans. I was going to build a single barrel stir reactor,with a high speed multi prop.aprox 1500 rpm. I was planning on heating the oil with a propane turkey frier burner,slow speed stir, once at temp turn off the flame, wrap the tank with a water heater blanket, high speed stir the methoxide in.stir for at least 1 hr. let settle. I was trying to do my first reactor with as little cost as possible so far I have only had to buy the barrel. I have been able to acquire the rest at no cost, and just my time to fabricate it. Any more input would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You Kevin
__________________
Central, New York,2001 F-250 7.3L PSD Auto 4X4 CC,SB,LARIAT,All the bell & whistles.
189,xxx mi. and counting
ZooDad,10K mod._SW pyrometer_NAPA 6637 Filter_Walker BTM__203* t-stat_Harpooned and Hutched Tank
285/75R16 BFG All Terrian TA KO's
Fed by home brew BIODIESEL for the last 24K mi.
Its gettin kinda cool at night Now running "B80"
It could get tricky trying to process, wash and dry in that barrel. Sounds like you are patterning the processor after the original set ups that used a drill and a glorified paint stirrer for agitation.
Never one to poo-poo ingenuity, I would say go ahead and try it if you want. I would scrounge up an old water heater and build an Appleseed myself. Just keep in mind that everytime you fill up with your own B100 you will be saving about $100. Six of those fiull ups and you just saved the price of an off the shelf kit.
Norman
__________________
97 F250 CC PS Tymar intake, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, turbo muffler installed backwards, 299,000 miles, running B100 when possible. "NEW 90 F450
That is what I'm trying to achieve. I guess trying not to spend $ before saving $ doesn't always work. thanks for the input.
This is one of the things I truly appreciate about this forum. I can get advice from people who been there done that.
Thank You again
Kevin
__________________
Central, New York,2001 F-250 7.3L PSD Auto 4X4 CC,SB,LARIAT,All the bell & whistles.
189,xxx mi. and counting
ZooDad,10K mod._SW pyrometer_NAPA 6637 Filter_Walker BTM__203* t-stat_Harpooned and Hutched Tank
285/75R16 BFG All Terrian TA KO's
Fed by home brew BIODIESEL for the last 24K mi.
Its gettin kinda cool at night Now running "B80"
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