I have a 03 EX 7.3 diesel and I run a 2 tank Golden Fule system. Vegetable Oil Fuel Systems, Filters, Pumps, DVDs & More! I have about 70,000 miles on SVO. I live in STL and at night it is geting into the teens. I alway stop on diesel. And plug it in at night. Truck is too big for the garage.
Problem
I have to crank and crank and crank then jump my truck and crank some more to get it started. it sounds and feels like its not geting fule. Keep in mind it should be diesel. This started last week take about 2 1/2 to get it started. Once i do get it started it runs real ruff for a few min then smoothies out. If i run for 30 min i will start again but when it sits over night i will not start.
Dealer:
The dealer charged me for 3 hr and said it my lift pump and want to clean all my tanks and fule lines. $3,500. I asked them to check my high presser oil pump and they said that was good, but I don't see it in the papper work. I think they were not happy that I had a SVO system.
They said that I was only geting 25psi out of my lift pump instead of 45psi. but i think they messed with my switch and if the grease was cold im sure it was not thin but i dont know. I told them not to mess with the switch and that i left it on the diesel tank. but when i pick up my truck the switch had been shifted.
But I guess thats the only way to check the lift pump depending on where they check it. But if im on diesel I should not be using that lift pump any way.
Please: Help I don't/will not spend 3500 im not opposed to spending money just not 3,500. I can do most stuff my self or my local shop. I replaced the batteries today so we will see if that helps in the AM. I don't see a new lift pump on my 2nd diesel tank via GF website so I will call GF tomorrow and ask.
From what I have been told and learned it is not the best system. I bought this years ago and have been having problems ever since. I just recently tore it apart and made it a hybrid system, basically only using the tank.
The diesel filter and injectors will never fully purge the wvo/svo and you will get hard starts, coking, rough idles etc. I was in talks with airfooter and converted my system over to more of his style.
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1999 F-350 Dually Diesel 7.3L DI, 201*, Harpoon & Hutch Mod
Akron, OH (45 min South of Cleveland)
So the problem seamed to be the batteries. Let this be a lesson to everyone make sure that you test each battery separate. My batteries as a hole were performing beter then one was rated. So everyone told me they wore good. But separate the both failed there for not craning fast enough to start my truck.
From what I have been told and learned it is not the best system. I bought this years ago and have been having problems ever since. I just recently tore it apart and made it a hybrid system, basically only using the tank.
The diesel filter and injectors will never fully purge the wvo/svo and you will get hard starts, coking, rough idles etc. I was in talks with airfooter and converted my system over to more of his style.
I have also heard bad things about GFS. Any 2 tank system that shares the stock pump or stock filter is not a good system.Marcus34 is right on the money about the purging issue. You cannot purge a filter competely of VO so every time you cold start you are stating on some % of VO/D2 mixture which is bad,bad,bad.
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2001 F-350 Nondually. 192K miles. Pretty much stock. DIY SVO Vegistroke style 2 tank conversion April 2010. 70K miles On Vegi!!
I have also heard bad things about GFS. Any 2 tank system that shares the stock pump or stock filter is not a good system.Marcus34 is right on the money about the purging issue. You cannot purge a filter competely of VO so every time you cold start you are stating on some % of VO/D2 mixture which is bad,bad,bad.
I have a separate filters but share the pump so I dont see the problem with purging. Like most GF systems that I have seen have Separat filters. Are you talking about the stock filter on the truck? But i would not see how you would put 2 different filter in there. All the problems look like there gone with new batteries.
Yes. We are talking about the filter on top of the engine. That is where the D2/WVO go. It gets coated in the WVO and never fully purges. It doesn't matter to me though. I finally got tired of the system, but if you have had success on the system keep doing what you are doing.
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1999 F-350 Dually Diesel 7.3L DI, 201*, Harpoon & Hutch Mod
Akron, OH (45 min South of Cleveland)
Well your right! Today the high is 20. And it have the issue again. its just not geting fule to the engine. How do i fix it? Just pull the stock fule filter sense I have other fule filters. OR? Please help thanks
Filters are only going to be a temporary fix and will defeat the purpose of the system. Some people will probably chime in and say scrap the system and improve upon it.
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1999 F-350 Dually Diesel 7.3L DI, 201*, Harpoon & Hutch Mod
Akron, OH (45 min South of Cleveland)
How would you fix it or what would you replace it with?
I have helped at least a dozen people 'fix' the poorly designed golden showers PSD 'conversion'. Those guys should stick with mucking up old MBZ's and VW's...
The typical issues include:
-Shared fuel filter causes contamination of the diesel tank and makes a full 'purge' impossible
-Not anywhere near enough heat for a cold climate
-Fuel pumps do not like to suck VO through filters
-the Pollak 6-way switching valve has a limited lifespan in WVO service
The shared fuel filter and 6-way Pollak valve have to go. You are contaminating the diesel tank with WVO every time you switch back to diesel. Between that and the fact that you can't EVER get all of the VO out of the stock filter - you are starting the truck cold with cold WVO and you are shutting the truck down with WVO in the heads/injectors. The cold oil doesn't atomize through the injectors and slowly cokes up the combustion chambers and downstream of the exhaust valves. Eventually the carbon deposits get on the valve stem and cause the valve to stick open for a split second - when this happens, the piston gladly gives the valve an 'assist' back to the closed position. Luckily, this seldom causes damage to the valve or piston - but the pushrod invariably ends up looking like a pretzel. The only real 'cure' for this problem when it eventually happens is a top-end rebuild. The failure to purge is a bit more urgent of a problem. When you leave VO in the heads and injectors, it slowly adds a layer of polymerized oil to all the carbon steel parts - specifically the fuel rails and the injector bodies. This invariably leads to premature injector failures and is the typical demise of this type of poorly designed 'conversion' in the PSD.
My guess is if you are having fuel pressure issues on diesel, your in-tank filter/mixing chamber is caked up with poly from contamination of the diesel tank. You will have to do the 'in-tank mods' to fix this problem. Here is a write-up on how to do this - BUT, I strongly recommend you DO NOT use a primary-type filter before the pump like Bob did here. Just use a WIX 33972 or similar 'strainer' instead. All the pre-pump filter needs to do is protect the pump - 100mic is plenty to do this, let the primary filter (post pump) do the job of insuring ya get 'clean' fuel to the injectors. Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
The pressure issues on WVO are a given, since the PSD pump won't pull cold VO through a filter. Combine this with a poorly designed 'heated fuel tank' and cold-weather and failure is almost inevitable... Some have tried to compensate for this with bigger, badder pumps - but this bandaid still fails in cold weather.
As far as how to 'fix' the problem goes, I suggest following a recipe that has proven nearly flawless for 100's (more like >1000) of PSD's for a combined total of millions of miles.
The key ingredients include:
-totally redundant fuel systems for WVO and diesel
-adequate heat for the VO (before the pump and filters)
-no contamination of the diesel tank with VO
-complete purge of all VO from the engine at shut down
If you are serious about 'fixing' your VO system, I'd be happy to give you some advice.
Fwiw, I've met several mechanics who turned their noses up when they found out I was burning SVO in my PSD's. After telling them how many miles I have without EVER having a fuel-related issue (>280k miles to date), they wanna see what I've done. There is a reason WVO has a bad reputation with mechanics - they have had to work on lots of trucks with poorly designed systems (like yours ).
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Choose wisely. Or PLEASE post pics of the carnage!!!
2001 F-350, DRW, 4x4, XLT Crew Cab, flat bed, 7.3, 6 spd, Dipricol Optix gauges on pillar - EGT, Boost, Fuel Press., HPO Press. - No Muffler, AIH delete, SB Con OFE, AC code injctrs, GTP 38R. Vegistroke-inspired WVO system w/170,000 trouble-free miles! BTS tunes, 203 t-stat w/billet housing, Evans coolant, coolant filter, boost relief valve, Dieselsite IC boots, Hella headlight harness, '07 grill/lites and big, bad front bumper!
2000 Excursion 4x4 Limited - BTS trans and tunes, AIS, Frybrid/V3 SVO conversion with over 100k VO miles so far!
The easiest (cheapest) way is to use the water-drain valve on the stock fuel filter. Add some clamps to the little piece of hose between the valve and the steel line that goes down the front of the block - then clamp a piece of hose on the end of the drain line (it discharges on the pass-side of the front of the engine kinda near the water pump). Clamp any pressure gauge (at least 100psi) on the end of the hose and open the drain valve to check pressure. You CAN use a long enough hose and put the gauge/hose under the windshield wiper so observation while driving is possible - but be careful ya don't end up spilling fuel by compromising the hose somewhere!! Your real problem will be under a load - the demand for fuel at idle is low and may not tell ya what you need to know.
I tell everyone with a PSD that I think a fuel press gauge is a mandatory part of a VO conversion. I'm sure for what you just paid the stealership, you could have gotten something like the Aeroforce Scangauge. This 'tool' will display every parameter the engine monitors and will do fuel pressure (and EGT) with additional sending unit(s). It also reads and clears DTC's and can do some of the on-board diagnostics the stealer often charges $125 or more to do. I'll go as far as to say there is very little you can't diagnose yourself (with friends from the PSD forums) and most of the common problems can easily be fixed in your driveway. Consider this tool an investment that can save you from a tow bill and stealer-priced diagnosis and pay for itself the first time you avoid paying some 'tech' to tell you your fuel choice is the problem.
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