After almost giving up, I finally realized that the Veg oil pretty much MUST be warm (100+) before it can be processed or filtered. Even if it is liquid and good canola oil, the labor and time involved are significantly reduced with some heat. So I made a hot oil heater utilizing a 55 gallon drum, and some parts from the local hardware store. I bought a hot water heater replacement element($6.98) and a replacement thermostat($12.00), 1/2" foam sheet insulation and installed them in the drum. I drilled a 1 1/2" hole in the drum just above the bottom rib and mounted the heater element there. I found that the nuts used on electrical conduit will fit the threads on the element just right. While in the electrical aisle I picked up some conduit washers (1.5" ID,3" OD) to place between the barrel and the heating element then sealed with good ol RTV. next I mounted the thermostat across from the element and towards the top. If I did this again I would mount the t-stat lower, as hot oil rises and will give false readings to the t-stat. (easily corrected by turning temp up). I wired the t-stat and element according to included schematic and to my surprise, it works quite well. The oil was up to around 110 in short order. I next wrapped the barrel with the 1/2" foam insulation to help keep in some of the heat. I will leave it like that for a few days to let things settle, and begin filtering. I am getting to have quite the filter routine going also if anyone is interested. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
That's a GREAT idea...and I'll certainly do the same thing with my juice drums when I start on my project later this summer. Not only would it help flow through the 5micron filter I plan on using, but it would also help the sediment fall out easier.
Thanks!
Lob
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1986 F 350 6.9 CrewCab training wheels "STACKED"
1969 Camaro SS
1983 F100 Stepside 302 (son's truck)
the threads on the electric heating elements are 1" pipe thread--straight--just get a 1" pipe union, and cut in half--then weld in the bottom of the barrel wherever want---i used a 1" aluminum one for the bottom of may semi tank for the element--- [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
That would certainly be a better way to do it, provided one has a welder AND adequate welding skills. I thought the threads looked coarser than a standard pipe threaad, but maybe that was only because there is only like 4 threads on the element giving it the appearance of larger threads. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]
fordnut--if a steel tank--could also soft solder it in--would only require a butane torch--------so long as dont make the hole tooooooo large [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
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