I recently picked up a 55 gallon bed tank for my truck, and am considering converting to WVO. I would like to take a look at a setup in person to see if this is something I could do at the shop, or if it's just a better idea to buy something along the lines of the greasel kit. I was considering opening up the tank and using a heater core as a heating element near the pickup, and running the oil lines along the hot water lines coming back, wrapped in insulating tape. I figured on a Holley blue for a pusher pump from the tank forward, through a large unheated spin-on filter setup, much like this one:
and that's where I get lost. Plumbing from here on is what I would want to see most. FordNut seems to have a good setup, I guess I'd just need to know the plumbing. If anyone is in the Los Angeles area, I'd love to come take a look.
Thanks in advance,
Jordan
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1995 F-250. Ext. Cab longbed 4x4. Add-a-leaf up front, velvet rides in back, Bilsteins, 235x85 muds on stock alcoas. TS Performance 65 horse TDE1 chip + 10k. Gutted EBPV, 3" DPPI downpipe, 4" back with Dynomax bullet. DIY air filter. Autometer Ultra-Lite Pyro and Trans Temp on the pillar.
Remember there would be a filter inline in the WVO side after the pump, and there would be hot water lines along the WVO supply line and into the WVO tank. That stuff just complicates the picture. I doubt the return comes out of the bowl, but I understand that there is one fuel return line, and that would have to split for WVO and diesel. I think that the switch that opens the valve for WVO would power-up the WVO pump, and shut it off when switched back, while opening the return valve to return WVO to the WVO line. The return valve could then be switched to return to the diesel tank when the purge is complete. I think there is a lot of opporitunity for air to enter this system, but I was just kicking ideas around. Thanks for any input.
Oh yeah, this is for a 95 PSD used in somewhat sunny California.
Jordan
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1995 F-250. Ext. Cab longbed 4x4. Add-a-leaf up front, velvet rides in back, Bilsteins, 235x85 muds on stock alcoas. TS Performance 65 horse TDE1 chip + 10k. Gutted EBPV, 3" DPPI downpipe, 4" back with Dynomax bullet. DIY air filter. Autometer Ultra-Lite Pyro and Trans Temp on the pillar.
I have a dual tank 1995 myself. I just have an inline 12 volt vegy heater tight after the solonoid in the direction of fuel flow. The supply and return lines are routed together already, so I have insulating wrap from heater to engine bay. That's all there is for me. I'll run mixes in winter to solve the fuel tank heating problem. You might look into a simplier system since you are in a mild climate. The vegy heater is from Neoteric Biofuels in Canada, shippable from California. www.biofuels.ca is the URL. Maybe Craig, which I beleive is in Calif, can direct you to some of their conversions. Oh, after I get my temp gauges in, I may also supplement with a small cheap coolant based heat exchanger inside engine bay. Depends on winter temps in supply line where the fuel bowl sits in V.
My 1995 has the stock 130 amp altenator. I purchased the mega 8 cylinder version since I don't have any other current heating. Using as a temp booster under hood, you probably ? don't need the mega for a good hybrid system. It has a maximum of 32 amps, normally operating in the 10-20 amps range. This is per their web site, not by experience running it and measuring. I don't know the real world operating specs in Okla temps yet. I didn't splice into any existing wiring (except for relay trigger), but hooked up directly to positive and negative on battery or frame. Good question, I was afraid of overheating existing wiring too with too high amp draw.
I don't have a clue on the excess capacity from stock. I am going to turn on everything electrical I can and watch volt meter & see if I keep running sometime. I've been running too hard lately to risk going down to try this yet. The maximum used will be in winter though, when the heater is overcoming the colder fuel during the first ? minutes/hours? of switching on. I used a simple on/off switch, interupting the relay trigger source, to solve the problem of the vegy heater running while the glow plugs are on.
I'm using the trailer wiring relay for power to my Racor and to my soon-to-be-made glow plug heater. It is ignition-switched already, and the previous owners had a 30 amp fuse already installed beside it.
Wow, that's some great amperage available! Good to know I can get higher alt just in case. I was wondering if I could or not. Thanks for the post on this.
Hey Mike, should I assume that is an after market alternator? Who makes it. Thanks
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Early 99' Upgraded to 99.5' F250 XLT SWB PSD, 4x4, GPT38, EBPV Delete, Perf Friction 2-pcs rotors, 4" turbo back exh, Ford AIS, 6leaker OEM cooler, Htr Core by pass valve, Synthetic every fluid (Mobil), Detroit LOCKER, BTS, Lunar Autometer gauges, DP-F6C, 235k mi SVO ConversionUpdated SVO stuff
As far as I know, this is the standard stock alternator.
About a month after I bought the truck (this spring) the bearings went on the original alternator. I pulled it and brought it into a starter place and they sold me a rebuilt replacement. It was quite easy to do the replacement.
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