can you mix WATF and WMO? cause at work it all goes into the same container. I also had a pretty good malfunction with the WMO (totally my fault), I ran it at a 50 50 in my 6.0 psd, for 2 tanks and now issues, ran great, then I filled er up on an incline with the WMO, and ended basically fillin her up with about 90% WMO, well I went on a trip into the mountains to burn some of it off so I could mix in some more #2 and even though it was warm out I blew 3 injectors! I also found out another fun fact, (it takes alot of flushing to get WMO out of your tank and lines)as I emptied out the tank, filled her up with #2 ran it emptied it out again, changed filters filled it up ran it, emptied it out one more time and another set of filters, the fuel still had a grey hue, the tech said i got a bad batch of fuel but still covered it under warrenty (whew)! anyway now since I got her back I am keeping it down to no more than a 25% mix and she has been rockin ever since.
Last edited by jimyz250; 03-12-2009 at 11:56 PM.
Reason: add content
wow thats crazy. i just got home from my girl friend's house and it is 35 degrees out. fired up on wmo no problem and no problems driving either. this is on 80wmo/20#2D
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
Sorry for your bad luck but glad to hear a 6.0 is running on 25%.
Your original question though...yes youcan mix watf(waste automatic tranny fluid) and wmo(waste motor oil) HOWEVER as I have stated MANY times in the past on here. Filter filter filter before you use any wmo--no matter what the source. Rather over filter before use than have to clean all the mess up after the fact.
for instance-- friend of mine bought new house filters to filter a few hundred gallons of wmo he scored. In his haste(he already had an old filter setup) the new filter housings dont come with filters installed. Soooo instead of the 20 mic to 5 mic filtering he was used to the two new water filter housings(empty) pumped 20 gallons into his 01 psd unfiltered... what a mess.
to avoid such things i had suggested always for him to filter into a container first then pump into your fuel tank. His effort to bypass a step to save a little time cost him a lot of headache and effort as well as frustration.
Needless to say I did not have to say I told you so
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1993 Crewcab 4x4 coverted extendcab,7ft bed , upgraded rebuilt E4OD w/ shift, new shocks, 3.55, Eagle aluminum wheels,1996 bumper, front buckets, ATS turbo w/ 4inch custom exhaust in process,60 gal aux tank for alt-- err extra fuel
Do you switch fuel tanks for startup on 80%wmo? I run 90+%, but I start/shutdown on pump diesel. Whats your setup and how is it workin for ya?
A couple times I have forgotten to switch at shutdown. She starts after excessive cranking, and belches a big cloud of grey!
If you are running 90% wmo its probably a good idea that you are running your #2 before shutoff.
Startup depends on your location and ambient temp. Have run 100% wmo to test many years ago. Temp outside was 90degrees though.
I prefer the two tank setup with one being regular diesel for startup and shutdown. It works great!!
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1993 Crewcab 4x4 coverted extendcab,7ft bed , upgraded rebuilt E4OD w/ shift, new shocks, 3.55, Eagle aluminum wheels,1996 bumper, front buckets, ATS turbo w/ 4inch custom exhaust in process,60 gal aux tank for alt-- err extra fuel
I'm still blending in at 25% some SAE 30 non-detergant oil...I've put about 2 miles in on this blend so far...going to go to about 35% on this next tank. cold 30 weight is thick. I end up pre blending it at 50% before dumping it in the tank
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'00 F250 7.3L, 4x4, 6-spd, SCT X3, ATTA 90 gallon tank/toolbox, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 kit. WVO kit in the making...now if I could just finish getting the CANbus code written for that HE431VE.
Do you switch fuel tanks for startup on 80%wmo? I run 90+%, but I start/shutdown on pump diesel. Whats your setup and how is it workin for ya?
A couple times I have forgotten to switch at shutdown. She starts after excessive cranking, and belches a big cloud of grey!
right now i only have one tank, so i startup and shutdown on it. but i haven't been doin it for real long either...that was my first batch like that. i also have a starting system that is all most totally brand new...that helps.
__________________
7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
Do you switch fuel tanks for startup on 80%wmo? I run 90+%, but I start/shutdown on pump diesel. Whats your setup and how is it workin for ya?
A couple times I have forgotten to switch at shutdown. She starts after excessive cranking, and belches a big cloud of grey!
well today i started the truck after sitting for over a week. temps were down in very low 30s high 20s over night. started the truck in 40 degree temp (assuming the fuel was still in the 30s cause truck was in shade). ran gps twice cranked for 3-4 seconds and it fired. choked for a few seconds then was fine.
...had to fill up on regular diesel today....that stuff sucks after running wmo!!
__________________
7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
I've got about 20k miles on various blends, WMO/D2/naptha 50/45/5 seems to work best in winter. In summer I run up to 80% WVO blended with D2. Kero seems to work even better than D2, especially in winter so I buy it when I can. I was running kero the last few weeks with the cold spell and she was starting fine at <10F outside. If it's real cold I cycle the glowplugs, crank for 10 seconds then cycle again and it starts right up. I get a little smoke on startup when it's that cold to. Otherwise it's great.
As others have said, filter filter filter. I have found that my finished fuel gets black sediment so my last filtration is after at least one week of settling the finished fuel and I use a 0.5 micron string wound two passes. That stopped the sediment problem.
Here's my process, new oil goes from my van collection barrel through a 30 micron into my "crude" storage barrels. Then into my cold upflow processor to further settle and dewater. From there through 10 micron filters 2 passes and gets blended. Fuel is then sent two passes through a 10 micron and 0.5 micron in series into my fuel jugs. I pour into the tank through a funnel and check for any sediment which as stated above has ceased with settling of the fuel for one week.
BTW, naptha isn't necessary in my blend but does seem to aid cold starting. I got a barrel for free from work so I'm just using it up. Stale gas works just as well.
My IDI definately runs quieter on waste oils, more power on WMO, less power on WVO. I have also learned to NEVER mix the two. Before switching I run a full tank of straight D2. I have tested several times, when you mix WMO and WVO something precipitates or polymerizes creating rubbery chunks that plug filters quickly. The only modification to my van is a Hummer H1 electric lift pump and a oil filter housing on the frame as a prefilter. To simplify hooking that up I used 3/8" aluminum fuel line and -6AN fittings I had lying around from my old race car. The stock lift pump is fine but a pain when changing fuel filters which I did a lot in the early going before I learned to properly filter the oil before putting it in my tank. I've got about 3000 on my current filter with no signs of clogging. My WMO is a catchall of WMO, WATF, gear lube, etc. I get the bulk of it from a local repair shop and the rest from friends or craigslist.
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1986 F350 Crew Cab 2wd SRW. 1991 7.3 IDI, T-19 4spd Sterling 10.25 3.55, 12" HD clutch. A Banks waste gated turbo. 5" cut down Peterbilt stack. Midwest rebuilt IP turned up. AC Delco 6.5 GM 12V GP's, working great. Running W85 high performance zero-gel diesel! D60 front conversion, 4wd conversion, dually conversion, and steel flatbed conversion now underway. Man those frame rivets are a pain!
1966 Porsche 911. 1983 911 SC engine with modified Zenith carbs, headers, 911S brakes, custom fuel rails, MSD 6al box with timing computer, 1974 IROC body kit. 1850lbs, 200rwhp, total blast to drive.
1. You are pumping 10 fold more junk in to the atmosphere.
2. You are gambling with your $7,000 engine.
3. WMO inherently contains metal particles (shavings).
etc...
I have yet to hear someone running WMO WITHOUT any problems for more than a few thousand miles.
I have no problems with someone trying to save a buck or two and not give away his money to a country that hates us, but please consider the environment as well.
1. You are pumping 10 fold more junk in to the atmosphere.
2. You are gambling with your $7,000 engine.
3. WMO inherently contains metal particles (shavings).
etc...
I have yet to hear someone running WMO WITHOUT any problems for more than a few thousand miles.
I have no problems with someone trying to save a buck or two and not give away his money to a country that hates us, but please consider the environment as well.
Good luck!
To address your issues:
1. Your driving a diesel and worrying about pumping junk in the air
2. It's my motor and I am full aware of what I'm doing.
3. Yes it does. So does EVERY OTHER type of fuel. This is why I filter down to 2 micron.
And just to let you know, I've ran 25K miles on a 75% WMO blend with ZERO problems. Now you have heard of someone running more that a few thousand miles without having any problems.
If you want to run WMO, it IS a gamble you have to be willing to take. It's paid off for me with NO bad effects except more $$$ in my pocket. So if you haven't tried it or don't want to, don't knock it. As far as I know no one here is saying that there is no potential for danger and I can only speak for the IDI 7.3. Don't knock if if you haven't/won't try it.
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1994 F350 IDI with factory Turbo, crew cab long bed with dual tanks
anywhere in the cities known to heave #2 diesel? or should i just run biodiesel?
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2000 f350 crew cab short bed 2wd. Glowshift guages, magnaflow stainless exhaust, DP Tuner. paid 3,000 for the 245k miles it had. up to 260000......SOLD
1999 f250 ex cab short bed 4x4 K&N air filter DP Tuner (stock, 80 economy, 120 race, 140 aggressive, lope idle) 4in exhaust airbags autometer gauges built tranny 305k miles! -SOLD
1999 f250 ex cab short bed 4x4 350springs 170k built trans DP Tuner (stock, 60 tow, 80 econo, 140 aggressive) 4in banks exhuast glow shift guages 8ft boss plow
2003 f250 crew cab lariat 4x4 240k miles, 9'2'' BOSS V plow
2002 f250 crew cab lariat 4x4 355k miles, 8'2'' BOSS V plow
1. You are pumping 10 fold more junk in to the atmosphere.
2. You are gambling with your $7,000 engine.
3. WMO inherently contains metal particles (shavings).
etc...
I have yet to hear someone running WMO WITHOUT any problems for more than a few thousand miles.
I have no problems with someone trying to save a buck or two and not give away his money to a country that hates us, but please consider the environment as well.
Good luck!
1) Do you know what happens to used motor oil? it is often burned in industrial engine or used in asphalt. I would say the ecological effect of running it in my truck vs. what commonly happens to it is a zero sum.
2) I bought my van for $1200, if the motor was worth $7000 i would have taken my profits a long time ago.
3) I filter to 1 micron, multiple passes to insure I get most of the filings etc. out of it. I have 2 stage filtration on the van.
I have far more than a few thousand miles on waste oils. I save over $3000/year in fuel costs. I could replace the IP and injectors annually and still come out money ahead. MY truck smoked for the first time last night, running a heavy blend (80%) it wasn't smoking at all but then last night I lugged a 9000lb load 50 miles and it smoked on steep grades as well as getting going from a start. It does the same thing on regular diesel. My IP is turned up a bit and I've never had the timing set which I believe is a little too advanced. Idling more than 15 minutes will produce a minor amount of smoke. Under normal driving conditions people are shocked that it doesn't smell or smoke at all, no one will believe I run that much WMO.
All my life people have tried to tell me what I can't do. I am an optimist and I'm tenacious, if I can prove them wrong I will work nonstop to do so. I am very happy with the performance of my van on waste oil. And for the record I took it for a tailpipe inspection last spring on a blend of WVO, D2 and naptha, my numbers where far below then requirements. I plan to have the same inspection this spring but with a WMO blend instead. I will gladly post the results, good or bad.
__________________
1986 F350 Crew Cab 2wd SRW. 1991 7.3 IDI, T-19 4spd Sterling 10.25 3.55, 12" HD clutch. A Banks waste gated turbo. 5" cut down Peterbilt stack. Midwest rebuilt IP turned up. AC Delco 6.5 GM 12V GP's, working great. Running W85 high performance zero-gel diesel! D60 front conversion, 4wd conversion, dually conversion, and steel flatbed conversion now underway. Man those frame rivets are a pain!
1966 Porsche 911. 1983 911 SC engine with modified Zenith carbs, headers, 911S brakes, custom fuel rails, MSD 6al box with timing computer, 1974 IROC body kit. 1850lbs, 200rwhp, total blast to drive.
1) Do you know what happens to used motor oil? it is often burned in industrial engine or used in asphalt. I would say the ecological effect of running it in my truck vs. what commonly happens to it is a zero sum.
2) I bought my van for $1200, if the motor was worth $7000 i would have taken my profits a long time ago.
3) I filter to 1 micron, multiple passes to insure I get most of the filings etc. out of it. I have 2 stage filtration on the van.
I have far more than a few thousand miles on waste oils. I save over $3000/year in fuel costs. I could replace the IP and injectors annually and still come out money ahead. MY truck smoked for the first time last night, running a heavy blend (80%) it wasn't smoking at all but then last night I lugged a 9000lb load 50 miles and it smoked on steep grades as well as getting going from a start. It does the same thing on regular diesel. My IP is turned up a bit and I've never had the timing set which I believe is a little too advanced. Idling more than 15 minutes will produce a minor amount of smoke. Under normal driving conditions people are shocked that it doesn't smell or smoke at all, no one will believe I run that much WMO.
All my life people have tried to tell me what I can't do. I am an optimist and I'm tenacious, if I can prove them wrong I will work nonstop to do so. I am very happy with the performance of my van on waste oil. And for the record I took it for a tailpipe inspection last spring on a blend of WVO, D2 and naptha, my numbers where far below then requirements. I plan to have the same inspection this spring but with a WMO blend instead. I will gladly post the results, good or bad.
Good posting
__________________
1994 F350 IDI with factory Turbo, crew cab long bed with dual tanks
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