I'm posting this in this forum just because I run WMO at about 80/20.
265,000 miles. Maybe about 1500-2000 miles on my mix.
I can idle until the truck runs out of fuel, I can drive pretty much any way I want, but if I step on it and the RPMs get to 2500, they don't get higher.
It happened a week or more ago. If I tried to acclerate hard, it would start to cackle hard. If I backed off it would drive normally.
Then I stopped using WMO for about a week because I know I put a bad batch it--I got a drum of oil that had some kind of goop in it, so I was thinking I caused the problem, so I filled up about 3/4 of a tank with regular diesel and it seemed to clear up.
Yesterday, I put in about 5-8 gallons of WMO mixed with 5 gallons of diesel.
On the way home from work it got really bad climbing a bridge. I could drive 70 on the highway, got to the bridge and had to do about 40. I could then again do 70 on the way down the bridge.
I thought maybe there was too much water still in the system, so I pulled over, drained the bowl and got on my way again. It didn't have any problems for about 2 miles over a couple steep inclines, so I figure the problem was too much water in the bowl or something. But then I got back on flat ground and gunned it and had the problem again.
The whole point may be moot--I've been sitting on a dieselsite CPR+ fuel system. I'm getting it installed tomorrow. That should eliminate any doubt with regards to my fuel pump, but:
Could it be an injector? I don't think it is because the problem isn't constant.
I may have also just fed the last of my bad batch into the truck--there was still some in the pump/hose/filter of my filtering setup.
But once I get the truck back, it is back to WMO and a 250 mile round trip to the poconos this weekend.
I'm not sure of the failure modes involved in PSD injectors, but I would think you could feel an odd vibration if you had an injector clogged and not firing, or you'd get a loud combustion knock if it was stuck open and leaking fuel in at all the times (like injectors do in big trucks when they go bad). Also you'd likely have extra smoke from the exhaust.
If it's water in the fuel, I'd think you'd lose power and/or have odd engine vibration.
I would take a sample of your fuel and put it in a bottle and freeze it. If there's water in it, the water should crystallize or freeze on the bottom of the bottle, and you'd know you need to not use that fuel batch.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Wellman G088 glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Buy yourself a Racor aquablock marine filter on Ebay. FH1000 the replacement elements are 10 bucks. It's a cheap way to insure that what goes in your tank is dewatered, and therefore you don't have to rely on the factory fuel filter to do it.
Have you replaced the factory fuel filter? After a certain point, if there was alot of water in your fuel, you can just assume that the filter will need a change, they can only do so much.
Also are you running a heated system? WMO is thicker than diesel.
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97 7.3 CC 2wd Dually 140,000 mi. stock except for
DIY Intake
Transmission Just Rebuilt, Tugger Kit, Billet Converter, Steel Gear Sets, Larger Cooler
It's the fuel pump. I had a cheap as GFS coversion when I first went to VO and it used the same fuel pump for both fuels and the factory one lasted about 10K after the conversion. Almost identical symptoms. I now have changed my plumbing about 9 months ago and use separate fuel pumps for both fuels and my problems are over. I am using the DPP/FASS pumps and they work great. I would install a Fuel pressure gauge. Helps with diagnosis. Isspro performax electric version is awesome and easy install.
AJ
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1999.5 F-350 CC-SB - Just getting started on her...
2003 Excursion 4x4 - 7.3 liter - 80k on WVO
Veggie Oil Conversion - HOH, GFS Diesel Tank, Stock tank modified for veggie with Hotfox, Hydraforce Valves, FPHE, ARC filter wraps & twin FASS/DPP HPFP's. ITP Reg Return/fuel bowl delete, HPX, AIH, 6.0 IC & Tranny Cooler - Dieselsite 203 T-stat & Coolant Filter - CAT ELC - BTS Valve Body - AIS with fender mod - Dome light overide switch - MBRP 4" Turbo Back - Bully Dog 50HP "McClain Veggie Tune" Programmer - Full A pillar Trans,Pyr,Oil Pres,Engine Temp - Overhead Pod Fuel Press, Boost, Volt meter
I put the truck in the local hospital this morning for the installation of my new fuel system. I'll post pictures after it is done, it has everything on it that you could imagine. Wait until you see. . . . but probably not done until tomorrow (Wednesday).
When I started to drive to the shop this morning, it had some throttle response problems and felt like it wasn't as zippy as it usually is, so I am totally relieved to have this done.
The mechanic is going to have to drop the tank to put in this system, I wonder if he is going to call me and tell me my fuel looks weird.
What ever pump you run, you are doing it a favor to lower the viscosity of the oil. You can get an arctic fox for 200 bucks and just T off your heater core lines. Your new pump will thank you.
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97 7.3 CC 2wd Dually 140,000 mi. stock except for
DIY Intake
Transmission Just Rebuilt, Tugger Kit, Billet Converter, Steel Gear Sets, Larger Cooler
What ever pump you run, you are doing it a favor to lower the viscosity of the oil. You can get an arctic fox for 200 bucks and just T off your heater core lines. Your new pump will thank you.
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