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Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels Discussion of biodiesel (homegrown or store bought) and other alternative fuels for diesel-powered vehicles.

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Old 12-21-2006, 05:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Inline fuel heater necessary?

I am almost done with my my WVO conversion on my truck. I am concerned with the fuel line under the hood that is going from my 30 plate HE to the Selector valve (above my fuel canister) here is some PICS. I have a hotfox in my tank and HIH supply and return lines. I think I will get plenty of heat especially after I change my thermastat. I am however concerned about the oil that may be in this line (which is about 30 inches) not being hot enough and maybe even thaughing. I am a Ski Instructor in Utah and see low temps. My conversion is almost complete except for the wiring and yes I know the valves I am using are junk I will replace with Frybrid or similar soon. Also has anyone had luck ditching their stock fuel bowl and keeping the stock regulator (will replace when $ avail). Sorry for the long post.
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Old 12-21-2006, 06:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Inline fuel heater necessary?

I wish I had some answers for you but I never see the cold temps like you do. I also have a hotfox in a bed mounted tank, HIH and 6 port pollak valve mounted on the drivers side valve cover. I have an oil temp gauge between the HIH and the pollak and at 4:00 AM today my oil was at 170º within 5 miles. I also have a 30 plate HE but I havent put it in because I dont need it.

Now for the questions:
What is that that's mounted on the flat stock next to the pollak valve? What'd ya use for the intertior hose and what fitting did ya use to break it out? Are both the HE and HIH on the same line with the HE first?

The pressure regulator can be used without the stock fuel bowl. A while back someone posted direction on how the plumbed it. I never thought to save the thread and have never been able to find it since. Why do you want to get rid of the stock bowl? Thats a heated filter in the bed? Looks like its between the pickup and the HIH That even looks like an Isspro fuel sending unit, with the correct ohm range to work with the stock fuel guage?
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Old 12-21-2006, 06:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Inline fuel heater necessary?

Nice job. Looks like you've got the return line to the tank heated to? You probably got enough heat from the HIH and plate exchanger. I'd be a bit concerned with the filter if it is not heated, besides the fact you are pulling through it right? What's the story with your pump? Stock?
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DP F5 tuner (60tow,80econo,120race,140agres) sportcomp auto meter trans, boost-n-egt's, cyberdyne digital fuel pressure, coolant and fuel temps., napa tymar w/zoodad, wicked wheel, aih delete, evans lifetime 0 psi coolant, 203 t-stat, diesel site coolant filter, diesel site trans. filter, triple disk billet TC, rebuilt tranny with sonnax upgrades,Richter69 tuned valvebody, custom waste vegetable oil fuel system with FASS pump,(Vegistroke design) Made for cold weather w/50 gal. tank. 315/75/16 DickCepek MC's, 2" front spring lift, rino liner, Fisher Minuteman 8' plow, 3.5"dp to 4" w/dual 5" tips straight out the back w/ soot stains on the bumper, and real .357 bullet holes in the tail gate, not the silly stickers.
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Old 12-21-2006, 08:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Inline fuel heater necessary?

BlueMule,

Mounted next to the Pollak valve is another 3 way for my return. I wanted them seperate so when I switch over I do not get VO returning to the diesel tank. For the HIH I used 3/4 heater hose with 3/8 Aluminum from Ebay and the compression fittings were from Carr McMaster. I had some leaks until I tightened the compression fittings again and now its fine. Right now I am running with the coolant circulating and no VO running yet (trying this in stages!) HE and HIH are on the same line with the HE first (to get the best heat close to the engine.) I will make a post with a flow diagram and more pics when I'm done. That stock bowl holds alot of VO to purge out when I switch back to diesel and I have another filter to put back by the stock 6 way. The filter in the bed is not heated yet but I have a 12V heat wrap from vegpower on order. That is also where I got the sending unit. Correct ohm for stock guage? That would be NICE! There is also a low pressure pusher pump by the tank to help my stock pump last longer. How long do you have running VO on your stock pump and pollak?

Frashdog,

Thanks! Yes return line is HIH as well. As stated above filter will be heated before switching over. Yes running stock mechanical pump. At a later date (when I win the lottery!) I would like to switch over to electric with the FN74 style. So you think the VO in the fuel line after the HE should be fine when I first switch over?

Thanks for any and all info everyone!
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Old 12-21-2006, 08:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Inline fuel heater necessary?

<font class="small">Code:</font><hr /><pre>Frashdog,

Thanks! Yes return line is HIH as well. As stated above filter will be heated before switching over. Yes running stock mechanical pump. At a later date (when I win the lottery!) I would like to switch over to electric with the FN74 style. So you think the VO in the fuel line after the HE should be fine when I first switch over?

</pre><hr /> Hotstick, heated filter, HIH, and plate and HIH return. yea, looks like you got the temps covered. A bit more than most, I'll say.


Mine installs been done in stages too. I've got the plumbing all in, gauges and controls mounted, coolant is flowing, just got to tie the fuel lines in with the tank.
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DP F5 tuner (60tow,80econo,120race,140agres) sportcomp auto meter trans, boost-n-egt's, cyberdyne digital fuel pressure, coolant and fuel temps., napa tymar w/zoodad, wicked wheel, aih delete, evans lifetime 0 psi coolant, 203 t-stat, diesel site coolant filter, diesel site trans. filter, triple disk billet TC, rebuilt tranny with sonnax upgrades,Richter69 tuned valvebody, custom waste vegetable oil fuel system with FASS pump,(Vegistroke design) Made for cold weather w/50 gal. tank. 315/75/16 DickCepek MC's, 2" front spring lift, rino liner, Fisher Minuteman 8' plow, 3.5"dp to 4" w/dual 5" tips straight out the back w/ soot stains on the bumper, and real .357 bullet holes in the tail gate, not the silly stickers.
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