Hello, what would be the max # for titration (koh or the other) when you mix it with the meth before adding it to the oil? Is there such a thing as to much and if so what does the bio turn out to be> Is it to thick or what and how do I know if I can use it in my truck? Oh and if the oil is to dirty to use in my truck, can I still make some bio with it and burn it in my shop heater? Thanks for any reply that I mite get.
Jeff
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1985 F-250 super-cab dually 2wd. Excellent shape, no rust, dark blue, tinted windows. Wife thinks I love it more than her! I'd hate to choose between them!
I haven't read any definitive things yet, but from friends I've heard that 5 is pretty bad and 7 is really bad. If you try to transesterfy anything beyond that you end up with a big mess of soap and junk that easily emulsifys. At least that's what i've heard...
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1985 F-250 super-cab dually 2wd. Excellent shape, no rust, dark blue, tinted windows. Wife thinks I love it more than her! I'd hate to choose between them!
Is it posible to filter the oil first and would that help bring down the number?
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1985 F-250 super-cab dually 2wd. Excellent shape, no rust, dark blue, tinted windows. Wife thinks I love it more than her! I'd hate to choose between them!
The usual method to bring the number down is the acid + base reaction. Acid to esterify and base to transesterify. I don't think filtering it would do anything.
Its all up to the maker. We have made 2 batches that titrated to 7 (We use NAOH) and they came out fine. You get more stuff settling out since your adding more lye but thats the important part. 8 is my cut off, at that point it goes into a 55 gallon barrel to be settled
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1986 F-250: 6.9L XL 4x4, 4.10 rear, 4 speed, Wellman GPs, 127,000 and chuggin along like new
1985 Mercedes 300SD: Daily Driver, straight piped
You can convert WVO that is up to 5% FFA, about 16 KOH easily with acid / base processing. Over that is also doable, but best left for more experienced homebrewers. You do get lots of soap resulting in more glyc and maybe an extra wash cycle, but you can make fuel that passes 27/3.
I made a 35 gallon batch in my Appleseed from oil that titrated at 24. Added 2ml sulfuric per liter and mixed for about 8 hours before the titration got down to 6 and leveled off there. I figured that may be as good as it got, so I added the KOH and mixed for an hour before settling. Drained about 6 gallons of glyc and washed out another gallon or so of soap and methanol. Netted 28 gallons, as I recall, so 80% conversion. Definitely lower than average, but good fuel and still considerably under $3 per gallon.
BTW, I have found that high titration WVO also is usually very wet oil. You really need to develop a system to remove the suspended moisture in all your feedstock. You will be a much happier homebrewer.
Norman
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97 F250 CC PS Tymar intake, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, turbo muffler installed backwards, 299,000 miles, running B100 when possible. "NEW 90 F450
Thanks for all the info, it's all going to help me out a great deal!!! It's good to know that if and when I mite get some real dirty oil, that I mite still be able to use it along the way. Thanks again and I hope everyone has a great day.
Jeff
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1985 F-250 super-cab dually 2wd. Excellent shape, no rust, dark blue, tinted windows. Wife thinks I love it more than her! I'd hate to choose between them!
Yep, what Norman said. ALso, if you do use really bad oil, and therefore make a lot of soap, let it sit longer than usual before washing- the longer you let the 'difficult' stuff sit before washing it, the easier it'll be to wash.
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Homebrew biodiesel crazy:
...several years with a couple of different 6.9's... now running a (gasp!)1998 GMC 6.5 van... don't shoot me.
Okay, that works for me because I have alot of time to let it sit, no big hurry over here. Thanks!
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1985 F-250 super-cab dually 2wd. Excellent shape, no rust, dark blue, tinted windows. Wife thinks I love it more than her! I'd hate to choose between them!
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