Since I can not edit my original post, I decided to use more virtual paper and am cutting pasting and updating in this new thread, with all new pics and details!!
After a lot of trial and error, and plenty sticky goey messes, i have come up with what i hope to be a fairly pain free filtering/settling setup. Below are some links to pics and an explanation
THIS is the setup as it sits complete. the bottom barrel on the left is my "dirty" barrel filling my heating barrel using my air hose and PVC pickup. The top rear TANK is a 175 gallon final product tank that I scored from a carwash for free. The middle, "blue barrel" is my heated oil and settling tank, with a valve about 1/3 the way up from the bottom. I installed a replacement hot water heater element, wired to a thermostat at the top. I made sure to place the element below the level of the valve, so that it is never "dry". There is a little more to what appears to be a white bucket sitting on top of the bottom barrel. The bottom barrel is my prefiltered oil, from there it is pumped by a SUMP PUMP That I picked up used from a local industrial supply outlet. It has a float switch so it comes on automatically, and shuts off when done. From the sump pump the heated prefiltered oil is then pumped through a DONALDSON P555823 fuel filter that I picked up at my local Peterbuilt shop for 7.69. It is the same filter that I have mounted in the ENGINE COMPARTMENT on my truck.
Finally the magic inside the white BUCKET, and with FILTER REMOVED . I have a piece of 5/16 allthread going through the bottom of the bucket into the lid of the barrel, with a nut and washer on each side holding the bucket and barrel together. The dots on the outside are metal roofing screws with rubber washers that help secure the bucket to the lid. The dots on the inside are holes that go through the LID into the barrel where the PREFILTERED OIL passes.
TOP OF FILTER. This is an air filter for a 92 Dodge cummins, that I get from Autozone as STP SA6629 and goes for 14.99. Schucks has them in the fram CA6629, and will proce match the zone. this filter has a metal top with a rubber/metal washer, and a sponge foam bottom. I am ususally able to filter between 60-90 gallons per filter.
FINISHED PRODUCT. This is from the donaldson and into the 175 tank. The donaldson is good for about 200 gallons.
I simply dump the oil in the top 30 gallons at a time, let it heat and settle for a few days, then open the valve into the bucket, where it is then pumped through the donaldson and into the 175gl holding tank. I then place the 30 GALLON plastic jugs under the valve to transfer to the truck. I am so far very happy with the ease and lack of mess. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
That's a great system you have set up there. That final filtering setup with the Donaldson filter makes a real nice finished product.
Thank you for sharing your work.
I haved attempted repeatedly to find a micron rating, without success. Even crossed part #'s to baldwin, wix, fram, duestch, etc. The Baldwin is however the OEM primary fuel filter for the Caterpillar 3406 series industrial engines, and that is good enough for me. Also, for what it is worth, since using the Donaldson on my truck, i have yet to have to replace the factory filter. Going around 7,000 miles since I last replaced the factory filter. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
If you go HERE and enter the filter # it will cross the # over to several dozen more manufactures and maybe you can find the micron rating from their website. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
FWIW I have several Donaldson P551000 and Fleetguard FS1000 (same exact filters) that are OEM on Cummins M11 engines and they are rated at 98.7%@10 micron 96%@8 micron and 83%@5 microns.I would suspect that the ratings would be very close for the P555823/cat
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FWIW I have several Donaldson P551000 and Fleetguard FS1000 (same exact filters) that are OEM on Cummins M11 engines and they are rated at 98.7%@10 micron 96%@8 micron and 83%@5 microns.I would suspect that the ratings would be very close for the P555823/cat
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Ahhh Yess- the beta ratio thing. I believe if I understand it right, then your filters are a B-10=75? I understand that this is the new standard that all filters will be judged by shortly.
Fordnut74
I hope you don't mind a few more questions [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]. Do you know what the pressure rating is on the Donaldson filter and if it has a built in bypass? What type of thermostat are you using to control the heating element? Also what is the brand and model of the sump pump you are using? I am setting up a simular system but I will use a bag filter to pre filter (free supply [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]).
Thanks,
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Fordnut74
I hope you don't mind a few more questions [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]. Do you know what the pressure rating is on the Donaldson filter and if it has a built in bypass? What type of thermostat are you using to control the heating element? Also what is the brand and model of the sump pump you are using? I am setting up a simular system but I will use a bag filter to pre filter (free supply [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]).
Thanks,
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No problem on questions. I do not know what the pressure rating of the donaldson filter, but I do know that it does not have a bypass. I don't think any fuel filters do. When it plugs up, game over. i don't remember the brand of the sump pump, but am about to do a good cleaning of all the tanks, so I will take a look. the thermostat I am using was the cheapest hot water tank replacement I could find at Home Depot. It is adjustable from 90-180. Cool beans on the bag filter score. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif[/img]
Well hello there board. I am a "newbie". A little about me. I live in Oklahoma, own a Home Theater/Satellite installation company. I put about 70k miles an a truck per year. (This gets REALLY expensive!) 31 married and I am hooked on this BIODIESEL! Ok, now the reason I am here.
I currently own:
2003 Chevrolet .5 ton
1997 Chevrolet Z71.
Now I am selling both! I go through a truck every two years and spend almost 10K dollars on fuel per year. When I bought my '03 I almost bought a new Ford PSD. But didn't because the price difference in fuel was not that much. However, the longevity and durability of a diesel engine almost swayed me. I have been glued the the computer researching biodiesel. B100 on the Ford PSD does not seem to have any major effects on the performance of the engine. Is this true? I prefer a Ford diesel over any other diesel out there. Hope I don't offend anyone with that statement. Sorry if I do! LOL So, how do I get started making my "home brew". I love fordnuts system. What additives, LYE, racing fuel,..... do you add? For the "home brew" system what is your estimated cost per gallon? Just a start guys, I hope I don't wear you out with questions. Please bear with me. I will not be satisfied until I have accomplished this!
Thanks and I appreciate you accepting me to the forum.
you arent wearing anyone out john--just keep asking--thats what Jason put this one up for-----
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
ADTMAN- I guarantee that the once you go diesel, you will never go back. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] I appreciate the comp on my system, but keep in mind that I do WVO, not Bio. I do not have to use chemicals, and worry about mixing ratios, and getting rid of the leftovers. But I have done some extensive mods to my truck to "easily" run WVO. Good luck in whatever way you go!!
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