I have my WMO set up completed, and currently have my oil mixed with rug settling. Tomorrow night will be 3 days and that is when I will put it in the truck.
My complete set up is contained In a 275 gallon tote, with the top cut off. My settling drum is a good sized propane tank, about 60 gallon. I have welded on a water drain for the bottom, and I am drawing my oil from another fitting welded on about 8 inches above the drain valve. I also have a sight glass by using clear tubing along the side. To fill it I have 1.5 inch pipe coming out the top that I use to pour into the propane tank. I will try and post a detailed pic later
Filters. - after the oil sets for three days, it goes through the filters by using compressed air. It goes through two oil filters (Fram ph 39) (orange) assumed around 30 micron, but idk for sure. Then through two Baldwin fuel filters the first is a bf614(red). Which is a regular diesel fuel filter. It then goes through a bf7417 (red) which is a 2 micron absolute fuel filter. , and then into the truck.
I like it. Here's the but. What happens when filtered oil quits flowing? In other words, what happens when one of the filters does its job and is so full of contaminants that it shuts the operation down? Do you just crank up the pressure to force more through?
I ask because that is my issue when using a rack filter like you have. We vacuum filter but it's sometimes frustrating to know which one of the four filters needs changed.
In your case, I imagine that a T with valve after every filter would let you know. If oil quit flowing, tap the tee (with hose attached) and see if you have flow. Keep doing this up the line until you identify the blocked filter.
I've not set this valve get up on our system so it is just theory at this point.
YMMV
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'95 F350 psd/automatic. Fueled exclusively by DRM's W85.
Junior's truck - 1970 AM General deuce and a half. The original oil burner.
That's a good point, and i appreciate the ideas. I don't really know yet how i would figure out which filter is clogged lol. My filter system is still dry and I may add the valves in tonight before I put the fuel In the truck.
Of my filters , I do not know which will clog first. But there is a tee in front of the red Baldwin filters. I planned on back flushing the set up, but not fully sure how i would do it. My plan was to push the gas / diesel through the filters, and then back flush the filters, pushing the crud back into the settling tank. Let it sit for a while then drain the crud out. This may work better on paper than real world though.
About how many gallons can you produce before your filters clog? How long do you settle before filtering and what percentage of rug do you mix with? Also what is your filter set up and which filter clogs up first?
That's a good point, and i appreciate the ideas. I don't really know yet how i would figure out which filter is clogged lol. My filter system is still dry and I may add the valves in tonight before I put the fuel In the truck. . . . . .
About how many gallons can you produce before your filters clog? How long do you settle before filtering and what percentage of rug do you mix with? Also what is your filter set up and which filter clogs up first?
97 f250. ccsb-7.3-zf5-4x4
We blend and then settle for at least three days but often a couple of weeks. We've done a couple totes full from one rack of filters.
We've not yet set up bypass vaves to check clogs so it's still hit and miss as to which filter is clogged.
We use all spin on fuel filters. A 22m water block, 15m, 5m, and 2m. I believe that there is some fuzzy science when you are talking about 2m absolute filters.
W85
We started with bag filters. That didn't work out for us.
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'95 F350 psd/automatic. Fueled exclusively by DRM's W85.
Junior's truck - 1970 AM General deuce and a half. The original oil burner.
The point with WMO is 1275 miles on 11 gal of fuel. That 11 gal is what I used to mix the ratio I am running on my 3500 Ram and 300D Mercedes Benz, the rest was WMO I filtered. you could look at it this way: I got 115 mpg from the 11 gal with the WMO I got for free.
update- i have drove almost 400 miles burning mostly W80. At night when i come home, i switch the truck to diesel a mile or so before the house. Then in the mornings i let it warm up on diesel and i switch it to my rear tank of W80 when i start to get heat in the cab. If the truck is going to sit longer than 6 hours, i switch it over to diesel which is in the front tank, and let it shut down/ warm up on D2. It has been been dropping to about 30 degrees at nights here lately.
changes/differences - NOT Much! the engine is quieter when running the w80, and it turns my exhaust a slight grayish tint. There is no smoke, or smell when the truck is at operating temp, and the only time it smokes is when the truck is still cold. When it smokes the smoke is blueish, and about like a gas engine burning oil, except it does not smell as bad.
I filled my truck up today and it seems like i clogged one of my filters. because it was flowing so slowly. I have ran about 50 gallon through them so far. Both batches have sat, blended with rug for 3 days and then ran through the filters into the truck. The first batch i agitated after i poured it. But this second batch, i just poured the oil in, then poured the gas in, with no agitation. When it came out it was still nice and thin, but maybe it took a day or more for the gas to blend with the oil and the settling time was not long enough for the junk to fall to the bottom. I am going to get a vacuum pump and try to back flush the filters sometime this week and see if that will increase the flow.
None of the baldwin filters numbers here come up on there site ? If it's not marked high efficiency itd not the 2 mic. I've used thd crossovers and the cat is the only one that has plugged up and stoped flow.
Put a pressure gauge between filters when pressure drops thats the clogged one.
Filters are made to flow one direction reverse flow can break the element = no filtration.
At $7.56 ea I'd put 3 baldwin 2 mics in a row and be done with it. Or 2 baldwins then a genuine cat as a final.
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99 f250 4Dr short box 7.3 auto 4x2, euro headlights. Diy 6637. 203 thermostat and billet housing. Diy wvo conversion.
JR- i have never heard that about the filters breaking. what is it that actually breaks? is it a hard pourus material or what? i thought that the filters were a paper element or something?
Also, where are you finding filters for 7.60 a piece? i paid 15+shipping for mine.
and i would like to run 3 Baldwins like you suggested, but the filter bases are 30 dollars a piece! and i would like to do the pressure gauge idea, its just that funds are tight right now. and adding 4 pressure gauges would cost at least 60 bucks. I am waiting for the fuel to start paying its self off. I do not pressurize above 20 psi so i feel that this is on the safe side before i force particles through the filter media.
i had the number wrong, bf7587 (stamped high efficiency) -https://truckhelp.com/shop/product/baldwin-bf7587/
I get them at truck parts store locally. Mail order and truckstops have a big markup.
Ghe element is glued and secured for flow in one direction. Cut one open the mesh in the middle holds the element while fuel flow pushes that way, no cage to hold it in reverse flow.
Ebay for cheap pressure gauges.
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99 f250 4Dr short box 7.3 auto 4x2, euro headlights. Diy 6637. 203 thermostat and billet housing. Diy wvo conversion.
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