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Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels Discussion of biodiesel (homegrown or store bought) and other alternative fuels for diesel-powered vehicles.

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Old 11-04-2012, 08:18 AM   #16 (permalink)
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@Buckman

Congratulations for becoming a doer and not just a talker.

A few thoughts based on your recent posts;

When you blend, blend. I. E., mix it up. My choice is to bubble with air.

When you filter, filter. Have a holding tank to filter your juice into. You'll not get all jammed up when it's truck fueling time and your filter quits filtering. And as a bonus, your filtered fuel will continue to clean itself up after filtering. You will be surprised at the stuff that settles out of your "polished" fuel after it sets awhile. Don't get scared, it happens.

Switch your tanks on the truck. There will cone a time when you quit fooling with diesel, but in the meantime, put W fuel in the larger front tank and diesel in the smaller rear tank. You won't have to refuel as often.

My take on filter ratings. Cat has positioned themselves as the experts when it cones to fuel quality. And rightly so. It's just that I'm not convinced when a cross referenced filter claims 2 micron. But it doesn't really matter whether it's actually 2 or not, it's doing everything that we know to do that counts.

Congrats again. Please post up when you have your first catastrophic failure, many are waiting.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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how much would it cost to take the next step and make bio diesel out of the wmo?
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:05 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Do you think WVO?
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Fiat 2500 NA IDI VE pump,meh LP,2T,CF,diy WI,FPHE etc.WMO up to 90%,no WVO
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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how much would it cost to take the next step and make bio diesel out of the wmo?
You can't make biodiesel out of WMO.
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'Fuging free WMO fuel with a WVO Design Extreme unit
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:23 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Do you think WVO?
do i think it would work with WVO? what?

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Old 11-05-2012, 08:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. i am no longer going to back flush my filters. (Thanks JR) and i am now putting all of my oil, mixed with RUG into a 55 gal drum to try and get better filter life (thanks 48chev). Sunday night i filled the propane tank up again so Wednesday night i will have to figure out the possibly clogged filter issue. I hope it is the first one.

i am going to have to build a sbc pump to transfer it from the 55 into my propane tank. going to try and use 3/4 pipe nipples. i need a better system than pouring 5 gal of oil into the propane tank at a time anyways.

@450 miles so far running on the mix. the truck seems like its lost a little bit of get up. everything i have read says the stock fuel filter will clog around 500 miles so im going to replace that tomorow. IIRC the stock clogs because the gasoline in the mix breaks up gunk in the bottom of your diesel tank left from diesel. Since the gunk is now floating around it gets into the fuel system and then the stock fuel filter catches it. This should stop around 3000 miles on WMO

@ any one cold starting on the oil mix. Does the truck smoke alot Before warmed up and/or after?? seems like if there is going to be trouble with the oil it would be when the engine is cold. And most the people i see with excessive smoking problems or injectors that need to be removed and cleaned have a single tank set up

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Old 11-06-2012, 06:46 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Your filter are being clogged because the WMO has to be filter down to a smaller micron than your stock filter and the only way to do that is use a centrifuge. My initial set up included three stage filtering with bag filters (10, 5 and finally 2 micron) down to 1 micron and letting it seat for several days after mixing RUG. Even with that dicipline it clogged my stock filter, after I started using a centrifuge the stock filter lasted 10-15K miles as recommendation.

As the colde weather approach your ration WMO and RUG will change.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:27 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Thanks for the centrifuge experience.
By searching the Internet I found that the 7.3l powerstroke fuel filter is a 10, or 14 micron nominal fuel filter. I am filtering down to 2 micron absolute with my set up.

If I continue clogging filters after 5000 miles I will buy a 'fuge. But for now I have my fingers crossed that the problem is what I mentioned above about the d2 gunk

The filter clogging, was this on the Mercedes or the ctd?
And have you ever centrifuged regular d2? I wonder how much would come out of it


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Old 11-06-2012, 08:45 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Thanks for the centrifuge experience.
By searching the Internet I found that the 7.3l powerstroke fuel filter is a 10, or 14 micron nominal fuel filter. I am filtering down to 2 micron absolute with my set up.

If I continue clogging filters after 5000 miles I will buy a 'fuge. But for now I have my fingers crossed that the problem is what I mentioned above about the d2 gunk

The filter clogging, was this on the Mercedes or the ctd?
And have you ever centrifuged regular d2? I wonder how much would come out of it


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Four minutes and a few seconds. That's how long I would be on the side of the road changing my truck fuel filter. Sometimes every one hundred miles. I got realy good at it. I did it a bunch. Use a milk crate, leave the fancy cover off the engine.

I was using bag filters and apparently they were not getting the level of clean I needed. I switched to vacuum filtered spin on canisters and now I change fuel filters when I change oil.

Well, sometime I change fuel filters every other oil change.

I am a fan of the can!

I would love a centrifuge, simple type, but it's a luxury, not a necessity.
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:04 PM   #25 (permalink)
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My math is not the best, so forgive me for this. What is the percentage ration of your blend?

My initial blend was 80% WMO and 20% RUG, that's to thin the WMO to match the D2 viscosity. Then mix in the percentage of D2 to the amount of WMO.

If I mix 10 gal (80% WMO and 20% RUG), I will add 2 gal of D2 to that mix. I do all this mixing in my portable tank in the photo below then it is pumped into the tank.

The Ram filter is $50+, changing it every 500 miles or 3K miles is not ideal for me, plus it is PITA to remove. The Centrifuge system has paid for itself, in just two months in use. My Ram is my daily driver. As I shared in another post I am in the process testing a centrifuge system much chaper than the one I am using, by 2-3 hunderd cheaper.

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Old 11-07-2012, 09:07 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I mix 20 % rug, 80 %WMO.


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Old 11-08-2012, 12:15 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I like it. Here's the but. What happens when filtered oil quits flowing? In other words, what happens when one of the filters does its job and is so full of contaminants that it shuts the operation down? Do you just crank up the pressure to force more through?

I ask because that is my issue when using a rack filter like you have. We vacuum filter but it's sometimes frustrating to know which one of the four filters needs changed.

In your case, I imagine that a T with valve after every filter would let you know. If oil quit flowing, tap the tee (with hose attached) and see if you have flow. Keep doing this up the line until you identify the blocked filter.

I've not set this valve get up on our system so it is just theory at this point.

YMMV
You could use an oil pressure gage system tee'd into the filter bases and switching from one to the next till you find the culpret. Either electric or wet sensed, either one would tell you the filter to change.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:16 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Mag mike. That's a much cheaper than having a gauge at each filter. If my regular valves don't work well enough, I will do it that way. Probably with one gauge , and lines running to each filter head. Then valves to turn on and off the pressure signal from each filter head


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Old 11-08-2012, 09:26 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Mag mike. That's a much cheaper than having a gauge at each filter. If my regular valves don't work well enough, I will do it that way. Probably with one gauge , and lines running to each filter head. Then valves to turn on and off the pressure signal from each filter head


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Im going to drill and tap the filter heads and install schrader valves into each one, which are about $2 each. And then use a low pressure dial tire gauge to check them. Its the cheapest solution I could think of.
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:18 PM   #30 (permalink)
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@ 580 miles

Yesterday I changed the stock fuel filter, and it works fine now. I wonder if The sluggishness i felt was just in my head. The truck is running great.

And I'm happy to say that I also replaced the first oil filter in my set up and my flow is now right up to speed where it was. It's amazing that 1 oil filter of all things was the first to clog. But I'm happy because those are the cheapest in my system, and they are doing what they are supposed to do, save the fuel filters.

When I pick up oil I am now putting 1 gallon of rug in my 5 gallon container. This allows it to settle longer and it sure does pour easier with it's thinned down. When the oil is thinned with gasoline, it pours just like water. I will continue to do it this way until I get a pump


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Last edited by bucklee00; 11-26-2012 at 12:19 PM.
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