My WMO set up

[bucklee00]

Small 5 gal air tank.

Up dated filters with valves to check flow









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[bucklee00]

@2134 miles burning wmo mixes

so far i have burned 145 gallons of my oil mix, and i have burned about 20 gallons of diesel from starting and stopping on the diesel. this equals about 15 mpg. Since its winter i am burning a lot more diesel now, because when i switch to the oil when its cold, it smokes during start up/warming up, and it smokes a lot driving it for the first mile or two. but as long as i shut down and start on D2, the smoke stays to minimum.

so far i have saved 405.75 dollars by burning the oil, instead of D2 all the time. This does not count money spent on the system, or fuel filters for the truck. I have replaced quite a few stock fuel filters also in this 2000 miles also. Hopefully soon i can put an electric fuel pump and a true water separator, and large fuel filter like i have inside my wmo tote. This will improve my fuel filter changes/mile, and those large filters are cheaper than the small tiny stock filter. Also i worry about the stock (lift)? pump after it has pushed that truck 212xxx miles and is now pushing the slightly thicker oil through. I think a new electric fuel pump will help a lot. People on the forums say they can tell a big difference with e fuel vs stock while using diesel, so hopefully it will do the same for the WMO.

[bucklee00]

@ about 3000 miles with burning WMO.
Truck has been running great. I hope to to the fuel bowl delete for peanuts mod, and add a cheaper external filter.

Today I dumped what I drain off the bottom of my propane tank and what came out was disgusting. I guess the settling is doing its job though. This is the gunk from 3 batches, and then it has sat in the 5 gal can for probably 2 weeks.

This about half of the gunk that came out. The rest fell through before I could snap a pic.


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[bucklee00]

I also finally made a pump from a small block chevy oil pump! I had a friend weld the 1/2 inch pipe nipples into the side of the housing. He also welded the stock intake hole and stock out put and pressure relief valve on it. It works well but the pressure relief valve leaks when under heavy load. So it's waiting for a flat piece of steel for no leaks.


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[bucklee00]

Update. I performed the tight wad mod. This gets rid of the stock fuel bowl, but keeps the stock regulator.
original thread - http://*****************.com/forums/...d.php?t=102394

^^^^this is the stock regulator with the cup removed. Off an early obs powerstroke. ( I ruined my original regulator, so I bought one off an older obs)

^^^drill and tap that hole for a 3/8 hose barb and then cut away what you don't need. For the later obs, a 1/8 npt-3/8 hose barb can be used. For the earlier obs powerstroke, I used a 1/4npt -3/8 h.b. fitting. The regulators changed in 96 I think. The earlier ones had a black plastic cup on them, and the later ones had a metal tube with a snap ring.








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[bucklee00]

I drilled too far and went through (see the crack ) so I covered it with some 900 psi j b steel.


^^^ how the stock regulator goes together. The Bb is just a regular bb. It bumps the fuel pressure up a little bit from stock.

^^ the newer, lighter regulator hanging out. It just hangs on the return line to the tank.


^^ here is my new fuel filter. I bought it from rural king. It's 10 micron and replacement filters are just 5 dollars each.it's a goldenrod brand fuel filter. It's hard to see the filter because its full of the WMO, but the silver is the top boss of the fuel filter.

I wanted to use a water separator under the truck, and use a high efficiency fuel filter under the hood.( I mounted the filter under the hood because pumps are better at pushing than sucking.) But i think it would take a long time to flush both filters with diesel, when I shut down on diesel. So I just used one filter under the hood.

I decided not to convert to an electric fuel pump because I thought a mechanical fuel pump would handle the slightly thicker WMO better. But if I had gone with electric fuel, I could have mounted a water separator, and a high efficiency fuel filter under the truck. because an electric pump is not dependent on rpm, the electric fuel pump would have flushed out the filters with D2 when I shut the truck down much faster, and it would have done it while the truck is sitting there idling.
Oh well, I bought a new mechanical one and ill stick with that.


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[bucklee00]

I also replaced my fuel pump, and ipr. I read online that carter makes the fuel pump for IH. As long as its carter, it's OE quality. I found a carter off rock auto for 70 bucks, so i ordered it. I also read some horror stories about airtex brand fuel pumps. Do not buy airtex!

Here's a part number for the fuel pump sealing washers for the banjo bolt in the fuel pump. You need two of these washers.

I went to drain the hpop resivore and stripped my stock hpop plug. I removed it with an easy out.

Ford wanted 18 bucks for a new one, I went to the hydraulics store and they had one for 2 dollars. it is a bolt head instead of Allen so it won't strip as easy. Its known as a no. 4 oring boss plug. Parker part number for
I also replaced the orings in the oil cooler because it was leaking pretty bad. This wasn't too bad, it just makes an oily and sticky mess taking it off. I read about having to lift the engine and possibly remove a motor mount when doing this on an obs. But I got it out without Doing any of that. You just twist and keep tugging and it will eventually wiggle out.



I beat it apart with a mallet, then pressed it back together using a jack and pushing it up against the rear bumper of the truck


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[bucklee00]

Well with the stock fuel bowl gone I was able to notice that my hpop is leaking from the "non serviceable " plug.

I did some searching and found that IH has a kit for a dt466 hpop that will work on our 7.3's.origonal thread - This is how to repair the "non-serviceable" plug on the HPOP
IH part number for the dt466 HPOP kit - 1842906C92.
IH part number for the Hpop mounting gasket 1825163c2 $21.29

IH part number for the Hpop resivore gasket 1823670c1 $9.61

Local IH dealer wanted 75 for the hpop kit. i found it online for 45$ so i ordered it. The kit gives directions on how to perform the procedure. The only problem is the kit only comes with one large o ring to seal 1 of the 2 hpop fittings coming out of the pump. So you will need to purchase another oring for the other hpop fitting.

the pump must be removed because of a check ball in the pump.
The pics below show the way to position it, with the ipr up to make sure the check ball does not fall out. The check ball will only fall out if you remove the "non serviceable" plug. So if you remove the plug, be sure to have the ipr pointed up!

^^^^Here it is with the fittings removed. You can see the non serviceable plug on the right in the bottom of the coke bottle





^^^Here is looking down the ipr hole. The n.s. plug has a boss/bar extending off of it which is what holds that check ball in place. You can see the edges of the ball if you look behind or around the boss

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If the check ball is not in it's little hole, the truck won't start. So be sure not to blow the pump with compressed air or anything, which may blow the check ball out of the pump.

To remove and install the stock hpop, I used the adrenaline hpop instructions.
Located here - http://www.dieselsite.com/pdffiles/a...structions.pdf

[mikeceli]

What is "RUG"?

[bucklee00]

Gasoline. Regular unleaded gasoline


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