so far i have burned 145 gallons of my oil mix, and i have burned about 20 gallons of diesel from starting and stopping on the diesel. this equals about 15 mpg. Since its winter i am burning a lot more diesel now, because when i switch to the oil when its cold, it smokes during start up/warming up, and it smokes a lot driving it for the first mile or two. but as long as i shut down and start on D2, the smoke stays to minimum.
so far i have saved 405.75 dollars by burning the oil, instead of D2 all the time. This does not count money spent on the system, or fuel filters for the truck. I have replaced quite a few stock fuel filters also in this 2000 miles also. Hopefully soon i can put an electric fuel pump and a true water separator, and large fuel filter like i have inside my wmo tote. This will improve my fuel filter changes/mile, and those large filters are cheaper than the small tiny stock filter. Also i worry about the stock (lift)? pump after it has pushed that truck 212xxx miles and is now pushing the slightly thicker oil through. I think a new electric fuel pump will help a lot. People on the forums say they can tell a big difference with e fuel vs stock while using diesel, so hopefully it will do the same for the WMO.
@ about 3000 miles with burning WMO.
Truck has been running great. I hope to to the fuel bowl delete for peanuts mod, and add a cheaper external filter.
Today I dumped what I drain off the bottom of my propane tank and what came out was disgusting. I guess the settling is doing its job though. This is the gunk from 3 batches, and then it has sat in the 5 gal can for probably 2 weeks.
This about half of the gunk that came out. The rest fell through before I could snap a pic.
I also finally made a pump from a small block chevy oil pump! I had a friend weld the 1/2 inch pipe nipples into the side of the housing. He also welded the stock intake hole and stock out put and pressure relief valve on it. It works well but the pressure relief valve leaks when under heavy load. So it's waiting for a flat piece of steel for no leaks.
Update. I performed the tight wad mod. This gets rid of the stock fuel bowl, but keeps the stock regulator.
original thread - http://*****************.com/forums/...d.php?t=102394
^^^^this is the stock regulator with the cup removed. Off an early obs powerstroke. ( I ruined my original regulator, so I bought one off an older obs)
^^^drill and tap that hole for a 3/8 hose barb and then cut away what you don't need. For the later obs, a 1/8 npt-3/8 hose barb can be used. For the earlier obs powerstroke, I used a 1/4npt -3/8 h.b. fitting. The regulators changed in 96 I think. The earlier ones had a black plastic cup on them, and the later ones had a metal tube with a snap ring.
I drilled too far and went through (see the crack ) so I covered it with some 900 psi j b steel.
^^^ how the stock regulator goes together. The Bb is just a regular bb. It bumps the fuel pressure up a little bit from stock.
^^ the newer, lighter regulator hanging out. It just hangs on the return line to the tank.
^^ here is my new fuel filter. I bought it from rural king. It's 10 micron and replacement filters are just 5 dollars each.it's a goldenrod brand fuel filter. It's hard to see the filter because its full of the WMO, but the silver is the top boss of the fuel filter.
I wanted to use a water separator under the truck, and use a high efficiency fuel filter under the hood.( I mounted the filter under the hood because pumps are better at pushing than sucking.) But i think it would take a long time to flush both filters with diesel, when I shut down on diesel. So I just used one filter under the hood.
I decided not to convert to an electric fuel pump because I thought a mechanical fuel pump would handle the slightly thicker WMO better. But if I had gone with electric fuel, I could have mounted a water separator, and a high efficiency fuel filter under the truck. because an electric pump is not dependent on rpm, the electric fuel pump would have flushed out the filters with D2 when I shut the truck down much faster, and it would have done it while the truck is sitting there idling.
Oh well, I bought a new mechanical one and ill stick with that.
I also replaced my fuel pump, and ipr. I read online that carter makes the fuel pump for IH. As long as its carter, it's OE quality. I found a carter off rock auto for 70 bucks, so i ordered it. I also read some horror stories about airtex brand fuel pumps. Do not buy airtex!
Here's a part number for the fuel pump sealing washers for the banjo bolt in the fuel pump. You need two of these washers.
I went to drain the hpop resivore and stripped my stock hpop plug. I removed it with an easy out.
Ford wanted 18 bucks for a new one, I went to the hydraulics store and they had one for 2 dollars. it is a bolt head instead of Allen so it won't strip as easy. Its known as a no. 4 oring boss plug. Parker part number for
I also replaced the orings in the oil cooler because it was leaking pretty bad. This wasn't too bad, it just makes an oily and sticky mess taking it off. I read about having to lift the engine and possibly remove a motor mount when doing this on an obs. But I got it out without Doing any of that. You just twist and keep tugging and it will eventually wiggle out.
I beat it apart with a mallet, then pressed it back together using a jack and pushing it up against the rear bumper of the truck
IH part number for the Hpop resivore gasket 1823670c1 $9.61
Local IH dealer wanted 75 for the hpop kit. i found it online for 45$ so i ordered it. The kit gives directions on how to perform the procedure. The only problem is the kit only comes with one large o ring to seal 1 of the 2 hpop fittings coming out of the pump. So you will need to purchase another oring for the other hpop fitting.
the pump must be removed because of a check ball in the pump.
The pics below show the way to position it, with the ipr up to make sure the check ball does not fall out. The check ball will only fall out if you remove the "non serviceable" plug. So if you remove the plug, be sure to have the ipr pointed up!
^^^^Here it is with the fittings removed. You can see the non serviceable plug on the right in the bottom of the coke bottle
^^^Here is looking down the ipr hole. The n.s. plug has a boss/bar extending off of it which is what holds that check ball in place. You can see the edges of the ball if you look behind or around the boss
2014 Chevrolet VOLT
2000 Ford Excursion 4X4 PSD Limited
1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab, long bed , 6.9L/AT
2001 "MagneticRed" Corvette Coupe
1979 Pontiac Y84 "Bandit" Trans Am
1988 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
1996 Chevrolet Impala SS Dark Cherry Metalic
1996 Chevrolet Impala SS Black
1995 Buick Roadmaster Sedan
The red is the somewhat short and sweet version. the black is the novel version.
The problem with running WMO on an older truck is you never know if it is the oil causing troubles, or something that would happen if running diesel any way. i have had many troubles, but most of them are because of my own ignorance.
long story short, i have had a bunch of trouble with the truck. Most of this trouble was Due to an ICP sensor that i cheaped out on long before i ever messed with the WMO. but i have fixed that problem.
Now i am having accelleration troubles with the truck. its dog slow. i believe this is due indirectly with the WMO, but not directly with the WMO. Example- The WMO could clog the in tank pick ups much faster than diesel will. The wmo will clog the catalytic converter much faster than diesel will.
here comes The bible update.
I have been having trouble with the truck for 5 months now and have hardly been driving it. When i first bought the truck it would buck while driving it, and it was horrible. so i set out checking sensors to see what would fix it. One of the first things i read is that if the ICP sensor has oil in the pigtail, it is bad, or will be there soon. Well mine had oil in the pigtail so i went to o rielly and bought a cheap 30$ ICP sensor instead of a 200$ ICP from IH. The bucking problem ended up bieng a CPS (cam position sensor) which 7.3's are notorious for. But every thing i could find about cps's said that the truck shut off, so thats why i was reluctant to buy one. But, from the get go it had a bad CPS, i bought one from ford (26$) and all was good. at least i thought.
ME CHEAPING OUT ON THAT 30$ ICP CAUSED ME LOTS OF HEADACHES, EXTRA $$ SPENT, AND TONS OF DOWNTIME FOR THE TRUCK BECAUSE OF ME WORKING ON IT, trying to fix other things besides the ICP.
now fast forward to when i started running WMO in october. slowly the truck started to develop this wierd thing where it would not want to start when hot. first it would happen at random, and it slowly and steadly became more of a normal thing untill the truck simply would be almost impossible to start when warm. so i thought the IPR valve was going bad. so i took apart the HPOP system (for the first time ) and also noticed that my non serviceable plug was leaking. well i lucked out and found this write up here about fixing it
I had oil in the valley, but with me running WMO for fuel, i was unsure if it was engine oil or fuel oil in the valley. I was getting horrible MPG, and it kinda smelled like gas in the valley, so i assumed fuel was leaking out of the mechanical fuel pump's weep hole in the valley. So i replaced the IPR (180$, bought the hpop seal kit, 70$, bought a new carter fuel pump (70$) and i put a tractor fuel filter attached to my radiator so i could also eliminate the possibility of the stock fuel filter leaking into my valley.
I got it all back together and the thing still had oil in the valley. It also appeared to be leaking from the oil cooler mounted on the side of the block. So i bought a oilcooler reseal kit (65$) and set out to fix that. Well after a week of driving it, i had oil in my coolant and vice versa. So i then had to take it off again, reseal it, and re put it back onto the truck. Finally, i did not have water mixing with my coolant. But i still had oil in the valley, and the truck was still a ***** to start when warm.
So i took the HPOP off again thinking it was leaking from the base plate. i got this "grape jelly stuff" loctite brand, from a buddy that works at IH and i made sure to seal up every possible leaking part for the HP system. While the HPOP was off, i ran across something on the internet talking about high mileage 7.3's with bad injector o rings will have trouble hot starting because the high pressure oil leaks past the injectors into the cylinder. Then you have to build pressure while cranking to get the thing to start. so i also bought all new injector o rings , pulled the injectors and put the orings on.
After getting it all back together i start it up and take it for a ride and the damn thing still has oil in the valley, and the damn thing still wont start when hot. I then start checking for leaks very carefully with a flashlight, and i realize that some oil is coming from the ICP sensor. Call me an idiot, but It is very hard to realize this, because directly under the ICP is a bracket that will not allow you to see oil leaking from the sensor. The icp is also in such a magical place that it will leak and fill up the valley directly under the HPOP, and it will leak down the front of the block, onto the oil cooler. So this one crappy sensor leaking caused me 2.5 months of headache.
After that, i replaced the ICP with the expensive one from IH, 200$ (because it has gold protecting the contacts lol)... and my leaks have completely stopped and the truck starts fine when hot now. So that chapter is over with, hopefully.
since i have replaced the sensor, i have not ran WMO in the truck. i have decided to get the truck running great, with a tuner on D2 before i play with the oil any more.
Now i have been driving it for a couple weeks and the dang thing just starts to get very slow. i was having a very hard time getting up to speed just to get on the freeway. so i am thinking its either clogged "sock" filter in the tank, or my CAT is clogged from burning all that WMO. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the truck and BAM my fuel pressure at idle is 65, but its dropping to 30psi under a load at full throttle. So tomorrow, i am pulling the bed and inspecting the tanks to see what i can find. Also, i am going to order an exhaust tomorrow because its going to be much easier to install with the bed off than on. trying to knock two birds with one stone, kinda.
in the mean time, also i have fixed the AC on the truck, replaced the spider gears in the truck due to drivetrain slop. Welded up all the holes in the roof of the cab because of the PO having a Brow and it getting ripped off. which caused ripping the screws out and placing holes in the roof that created a wonderful whistling sound @65mph. And i ran surgical latex tubing through the front door seals to try and get rid of some of the road noise. I also have welded plates to the doors to accept Chevrolet tow mirrors onto the doors. As you can see i have been busy, and i have not given up on the truck one bit.
This WMO thing is one big experiment for me, but i think it will work. i just need to get the supporting mods for it first before i start to play with it agian. I also have bought a centrifuge to produce high quality fuel. I tried to get the filters to work, but even with the amount of filters i had, i still had water, and gunk in my end process fuel.
on the plus side, back when i worked at the oil change shop, we actually had a guy come in with an 05 excursion with a 12v in it. he worked for an excavation company and he said he had ran nearly every diesel he owned off of 80%W85 and 20%D2. He said the exhaust stunk, the engines smoked, and he had people tell him that his EX was about to blow up constantly because of the smoke, but he has been doing it for years. He is the one who convinced me to get a centrifuge.
And I thought I had been messing with troubles of one kind and another. WOW. Hang in there brother.
2000 F250 Superduty 180K and counting 4X4 4R100 Glow Shift gauge - EGT - Boost - Tranny Temp Fuel Pressure on an A pillar mount Diesel Site boots Transgo shift kit K & N Stage II air filter 5" exhaust RiffRaff AIH to boost mod CCV mod DP-Tuner with W85 settings Amsoil Bypass oil filter 6.0 tranny cooler, W80, Cooling Mist water injection.
Haha thanks. I am trying to stay persistent. I plan on keeping the truck for 3-5 years so I am trying to fix it up to a good DD that I can hopefully burn WMO with.
All automobiles have their own issues that can be tough to diagnose what the culprit is. If you start burning alternative fuels, you throw a whole new item into the equation. And you have to be the one to decide what the problem is. As soon as you have trouble with the truck and ask for advice, people automatically blame it on the WMO. I have found that just never telling them about WMO is the best way to get some insight👍
I originally did the WMO to save money on fuel. I haven't kept too much track, but with all the money as time spent I may have spent more money. But I am waste deep in it now and don't intend on stopping until I ruin the engine, or I have figured out the perfect WMO recipe of fuel %'s and mods needed for the truck
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