Potential new pump for FN74 system-Good and Bad

[fordnut74]

Well I think I may have found a potential new pump for my system. It is the Mallory 5110FI .This pump has a gerotor style design pump, and the motor is seperate from the pump. The gerotor style pump is commonly used in engine oil pumps, and transmission pumps. Another nifty feature I liked is that it has a built in air bleed that I just tied into my purge return line. And the optest....started off [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img], then it started raining, and the motor shorted out [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]. I pulled off the side of the road, opened it up, and water came out of the brushes [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] I called on it and the pump is supposed to be wheather resistant, meaning able to get wet from road spray, and supposed to mount to the frame. So I wound up Making the rest of my trip on Diesel, to the tune of about $200. I am exchanging it on Warranty, and will try again, but maybe add some silicone to the wires this time.

In other pump news- My Aero was starting to sound pretty sick after over a year, and more than 35,000 miles, so like MM, I disected it and found the pump to be fine, but the motor is toast. I don't have any pics yet, but one brush was wore completely out, about 3 strands of wire left before it cut clean through the brush wire. And the Rotor is also shot, wore through the copper in places. I have no idea if this is from sediment, or just normal wear and tear. I will be contacting Aero and talk to them about it. I think I can live with a new pump every 35,000 miles if it was just wore out. But hopefully I can get that Mallory weatherized, and see how it works out. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[ToddT]

Which model would you use? The Comp 60 is only rated for fuel injection pressures of 40psi. The Comp 110-FI appears to be the only one rated for higher pressure than that. Even then, it lists a rating of only 60 psi. What would you use as the regulated pressure on the diesel side if you have a max of 60psi on the WVO side? Could the engine live with 50 psi on diesel?

Would you go with their pressure regulator model 650-4309? That is the one recommended for use with the Comp 110FI. Price isn't too bad at $100.

Boy.. the prices sure jump up from the low pressure to the high pressure. The Comp 60/40psi is $146 but the Comp 100FI price jumps to $230. Still, it is less expensive than the Aeromotive A-1000.

By the way, are you using the factory fuel filter in the valley of the engine? I've been wondering about going with a Fleetguard or Luberfiner just to save on the expense of replacement elements.

Todd

[fordnut74]

Todd- Again, be careful before you jump too far. This pump lasted me a day and a half before it shorted out. However that is not normal, and I do think there is a good potential there. I use the Mallory 4305M regulator already. Don't use the 4309, that is a misprint, it is the carburated version and good for 3-12psi. That wouldn't work so well...The 4305 is the fuel injected version, and good for 100 psi. And yep, that pump is a fair amount cheaper. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[JOAT]

I have a Mallory 5110fi in my setup. Bought it used off EBAY, and have put over 6000 miles on WVO so far, no problems. It runs between 70-90 psi depending on temp, and has 180 degree oil recirculating thru it. Hangs horizontally in front of the RR wheel well and has seen a fair amount of wet roads.

[fordnut74]

Cool beans, that is good to know. Hopefully I only got a bad one. I have been eyeing that pump since Kuwait, and just finally got it put in.

[asnowsquall]

My GERO pump over here is working great. It works good enough that I'll take some more time to make it better. The other option is a TEEL gear pump that has sealed shafts and you can stick a nice DC motor like a Dayton on it. Glad to see someone else is trying the GERO. 70 GPM seems high so you may want to use a fuel regulator with a return to the tank.

[IndianaDave]

[ QUOTE ]
My GERO pump over here is working great. It works good enough that I'll take some more time to make it better. The other option is a TEEL gear pump that has sealed shafts and you can stick a nice DC motor like a Dayton on it. Glad to see someone else is trying the GERO. 70 GPM seems high so you may want to use a fuel regulator with a return to the tank.

[/ QUOTE ]

What engine suppy pressure do you need from your pump?

[asnowsquall]

It only needs around 5 psi. I've got the pump setup to deliver about 25 psi. I've got a Mallory fuel pressure regulator with a return for under the hood I just haven't installed it yet. I'm going to set it up to regulate only the WVO and so it will be located before my Frybrid 3 way valve. What I'm going to do is monitor the return temperature of the Mallory to decide when to swithc over to WVO. IP hasn't blown yet with 25 psi feeding it. Plugging WVO fuel filters. Got a plan to make my own SS filter housing which will be heated internally with coolant.

[shoebear]

Jason, please keep us posted on the Mallory pump.

One of the problems of the Aeromotive A1000 is that the motor is cooled by the fuel and can overheat the fuel if circulating less than 10 gallons. The overheated fuel will not cool the pump motor properly, resulting in accelerated pump wear and failure. The Aeromotive manual warns against this:

[ QUOTE ]
For long term driving applications where continuous run times exceed 30 minutes and fuel capacity is less then 10 gallons, Aeromotive recommends the installation of a pump voltage control module, Aeromotive p/n 16302

[/ QUOTE ]
Also . . .

[ QUOTE ]
Q: Are you driving the vehicle for periods of time greater then 30 minute with less the 10 gallons of fuel in the tank?

A: As the fuel level falls in your tank it is being recirculated at an increasing rate, allowing less time for fuel cool down, in these cases it is recommended to use a pump step down controller, we recommend Aeromotive p/n 16302.

[/ QUOTE ]
Now for a WVO system, you WANT the fuel to be hot. So the WVO system design goals and the A1000 operating limit goals are in conflict.

It looks like the Mallory pump won't have this issue. The motor is air-cooled and separated from the pump. Therefore, the motor won't be stressed by hot fuel, and it also won't add its waste heat to the fuel.

I just ordered a new A1000 yesterday to replace one that failed. I wish I had seen this post before then. I could still order the Mallory and return the Aeromotive, but I would pay double (overnight) shipping, my truck would be down an extra day, and I would like to see FN74's results with the new pump before jumping in with both feet.

Another theoretical advantage to the Mallory is that you can get a seal kit for $43 and I suppose rebuild it yourself. With Aeromotive, the only factory-sanctioned repair option is to send it back for a rebuild.

So the Aeromotive is widely used and proven to have fair reliability -- a known quantity. The Mallory looks much better theoretically, but does not have a track record to prove it.

[asnowsquall]

May have overlooked this, but is there a temp spec for the motor on the Mallory? It is physically connected to the pump so will see some heat.

[tduncklee]

[ QUOTE ]
Could the engine live with 50 psi on diesel?

[/ QUOTE ]
My experience shows that the 7.3 has no problem with >50 psi in the fuel rails. I learned this the hard way. I had dead headed the system when it was switched to oil. After a few thousand miles I had no power. I put a gauge on the fuel rail and discovered <10 psi. Decided that the 2nd stage of the fuel pump had failed and change it out. What fun that was... Anyway, with the new pump I had more than 300psi. I had been running this way a long time and only damage was the fuel pump.

[ToddT]

I contacted Mallory regarding the use of heated veggie with their Comp 110FI pump. Here's their reply:

"These parts were not really designed for diesel fuel but the fact that the housings are black anodized is a plus. The only problems we have had were that the diaphragm in the regulators and the pump seals do not last long because of the sulpher content of the fuel. The the "O" rings are effected as well. This would require monitoring the components to see if and when they start leaking and then repairing them with new seals and diaphragms."

Sounds good to me! I think it would be good to change out any o-rings to viton before initial use just in case we run some biodiesel through the veggie system from time to time in order to do some cleaning.

[TonyBia]

I have one of these pumps to use on my second truck system but have been too busy to actually install and run it. I think I saw a alcohol rebuild kit for this pump and was thinking that this kit might be more reliable for WVO.

T

[JOAT]

I asked Mallory about the alcohol seal kit and they said he wasn't sure about WVO or Bio, but that he didn't think it would hold up to Diesel. Wouldn't tell me what the seals were made of tho so I can't say for sure, and the Mallory tech didn't sound like he was real certain what he was talking about. I have a kit here. I'll try to spec the o-rings and shaft seal. If we can get the size, we can order them in any material, preferably viton or teflon

[TonyBia]

That would be great!!! Viton would appear to be the best. Teflon,in my experience, does not stand up to heat well,but maybe that type of o-ring is different.

Thanks for the work checking it out!

T