Probably been discussed before but can't find theard. Does anyone pour their use oil back in their tank after oil change and if so what's the ratio of used oil to gal of fuel.
__________________
2002 X Has new rebuild with forged rods. 113000 miles Bilstens and Helwig rear bar.
This gets discussed regularly down in the alt / biofuels fourm.
The best place for WMO is a heater in your shop. There's no way I'd put it in my PSD. Its NOT A FUEL, so why put it in your fuel tank? I wouldn't use ATF, alcohol, piss, MMO, or water either.
This is why Ford will not warranty a fuel related problem. If you had an injector problem and they suspect the fuel was related, they'll deny repair, because they can't control what us idiots pour into our fuel tanks.
An older IDI type engine was/is a different beast, and could take more abuse (and yes, it was abuse) than a PSD (either 7.3 or 6.0).
And if you ever buy a 6.4, don't even think of going there. You'll destroy the smog system post haste.
__________________
Feb 03 6.0 Silver F-250 SD SC XLT long box, 6-spd 3.73ls, Fx4, Stock, Spray-in liner, Contico box.HARPOONED.
I was just getting ready to Quote your statement in the Biodiesel section of this site. But as it turns out you are way too fast.
__________________
Early 99 F250 Crew Cab. South Texas Outfitters grill guard and bumper. Rhino linered bed covered by a SnugTop Snuglid. Homemade Tymar. Rockford/Fosgate speakers. Nitrogen filled tires and a quiet torque converter. 98 gal bed mounted aux tank. PIAA pencil beam lights. 5 oz of ceramic ballance beads in each tire. Smoooooth Otherwise quite stock.
Bright and clear is the way fuel is suppose to be. Putting black nasty stuff into a tank that feeds a $10,000 engine is a mistery to me. I can't afford to take a chance. Fuel Filter, Injectors, are two of the items that can be affected. Kinda like smoking. You may live to be 100 years old and smoke 3 pack a day. Someone else my not make it a year after starting. It's all chances. One I'm not going to take. If you want to cut your fuel cost try brewing your own Biodiesel.
__________________
Early 99 F250 Crew Cab. South Texas Outfitters grill guard and bumper. Rhino linered bed covered by a SnugTop Snuglid. Homemade Tymar. Rockford/Fosgate speakers. Nitrogen filled tires and a quiet torque converter. 98 gal bed mounted aux tank. PIAA pencil beam lights. 5 oz of ceramic ballance beads in each tire. Smoooooth Otherwise quite stock.
[ QUOTE ]
Probably been discussed before but can't find theard. Does anyone pour their use oil back in their tank after oil change and if so what's the ratio of used oil to gal of fuel.
[/ QUOTE ]
Correct ratio ?, well that would be zero (0) %. As long as you stick with that you will be OK. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] 106
[ QUOTE ]
If the oil is well filtered and only small quantities are used, what will it hurt?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yer kidding, RIGHT???? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]
__________________ TurboDave, EWCS(SW)USN Ret H&N Turbo 6 Racing
Seviervile TN A MAN AND HIS TRUCK, IT'S A BEATUFUL THING 01 Excursion LTD (EBM3) 7.3L, PSD, Turbo, 4X2, TTS Race Magnum chip (original owner) 86 GN (original owner) 87 GN (second owner) 08 Honda Accord EX-L
Read this post from Dave at swamp's.
Pay special attention to the 20 to 30 millionths part!
You can not filter used motor oil that well, practically. Not to mention the viscosity and weight differences btw diesel and motor oil.
Stick to diesel and leave the snake oil to those who have cheaper injectors.
my 2 cents
<font color="darkblue">Injector life depends on two main factors. Fuel quality and oil quality.
One bad tank of fuel, contaminated with water, or gas, for instance can (and will, usually) wipe out an entire set of injectors. Not the entire injector of, ourse, but the "heart" of the injector, which is the plunger and barrel assembly.
The fitment between these tow parts (think fitment of piston to cylinder wall) is on the order of 20-30 millionths of an inch.
ANy loss of lubrication will gall these parts in an instant...rendering them useless. Loss of lubrication can also occur when fuel pump goes out, but usually the siphoning action of these parts will actually pull fuel, through the feed lines, and the truck will still run.
That's why clean, well filtered fuel is esential to happy injectors.
On the oil side of the injector, the main wear area is the poppet valve.
This valve opens and closes (similar to a valve in a cyl head) metering the oil into and out of the injector.
With crappy oil, the poppet valve (& seat) will wear much more quickly than with "good" oil.
But at some point, after millions of injection events, the valve and its seat will wear (just from the shear repetitive beating of closing the valve over and over)
When the poppet seat wears, some internal tolerances get all jacked up within the injector...requiring machining to get them back into spec.
If you kept good quality, well filtered fuel in the truck (no water, no gas, etc) then the poppet will usually start showing its wear after 175,000-225,000 miles...
We've seen sets come in with 400,000 miles that had wear, but were still functioning...albeit a little out of balance.
We've also seen sets come in with less than a 100,000 on them that were totally jacked from crappy oil...
As an average life expectancy, I'd say after about 200,000 miles you might need them looked at, and brought back into spec...
Typical poppet valve issues are that a truck runs good cold, but rough when warm...thicker oil can bridge the gap of a poorly sealing poppet than when the oil thins out when hot.
Ok, but a micron is 39 millionths of an inch. And don't the fuel filters on our trucks filter to 20 microns? Seems that unless the fuel we put in is really really clean our injectors are on borrowed time anyway. If I run waste oil through a sub-micron filter and put in one gallon per tank I just can't see it causing problems. I could be wrong, but that's the way I see it.
-john
[ QUOTE ]
Ok, but a micron is 39 millionths of an inch. And don't the fuel filters on our trucks filter to 20 microns? Seems that unless the fuel we put in is really really clean our injectors are on borrowed time anyway. If I run waste oil through a sub-micron filter and put in one gallon per tank I just can't see it causing problems. I could be wrong, but that's the way I see it.
-john
[/ QUOTE ]
I'm confused....You're talking about 1 gallon of waste oil per tank of fuel?...
Why on earth would you risk $2,000+ in repairs to save $3.00 per tank full??
I'm not convinced I'm running such a risk. As for the reason, I live 40 miles from the nearest place that will take waste oil. I can use up valuable garage space saving it until I'm ready to take it somewhere, I can store it outside the garage and make my place look like a junkyard, I can pour it on the ground and pretend it doesn't make a difference, or I can burn it in small quantities in my truck. Up until now, I've just saved it up and taken it into town when convenient to a garage that burns it in their heater. I'm not convinced that I will burn it in my truck. I don't want to do something stupid, but if it is ok to burn it would be the simplest solution. I did burn used oil in my 12-valve Cummins, but its mechanical fuel system was somewhat more forgiving than HEUI.
-john
I'm just in awe here... Even if you could demonstrate that the used oil could be filtered to a safe level, and then demonstrate a need to pour it into the tank, I still wouldn't do it on principal alone.
Things you can do with used oil:
Recycle it (there's a thought)
Send it in for analysis.
Kill weeds with it.
But then again, I just had lunch with a Duramax owner (I wore a disguise) and he's certain that K&N is the best air filter ever, and nothing makes a Duramax purr like a bottle of ATF in the tank... Everyone has their own Kool-Aid to drink, it's just what flavor we like.
__________________
2002 F-250 7.3L Lariat CC 4X4 Off Road, AFE Stage II w/PG7, MagnaFlow Performance Turbo Back, Edge Juice/A2 Controller, Edge Evolution Programmer, DS HX Mod, MIAH Delete, Foil Delete, DS A/C Mod, DS Coolant Bypass Filter, 203º T-Stat W/Billet Housing, Evans NPG+, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan and Front & Rear Diff Cover (3.73 LS), Magnefine Filter, Sonnax Valve-Tricumulator Springs, Amsoil end to end, Astro Tonneau Cover, BedRug, Bilsteins, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, Driiv Off Road 18x9 wheels, Michelin LTX A/T2 275/65R18, Balance Masters Dynamic Wheel Balancers, Gentex NVS Mirror, Alpine ((XM)), Garmin StreetPilot 2720
The two best days a PowerStroke owner can have... When the last payment is made, and when the warranty expires...
PowerStroke ownership is neither for the faint of wrench, nor the thin of wallet...
I do understand your points...Our waste oil at work is picked up 55 gallons at a time and it gets used in waste oil furnaces elsewhere...I would love to have access to gallons of "free fuel", but to me it's just not worth the risk of causing an engine failure...
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.