If you're cutting into a tank previously used for diesel in order to install a heat exchanger, are you purging with nitrogen or some other inert gas? If not, isn't there a risk associated with drilling/ cutting sparks and diesel (fumes)? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
Now that the tranny is working, hopefully a veggie conversion is the next project.
Devo
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Work like there is a tomorrow and play like there isn't.
87 F250 Lariat SC LB 4X4 with an NA 6.9, C6 with deep pan and 4.10's. Dana 50 IFS up front. 263K mi. 3" exhaust, Ram air. New aluminum radiator and coolant filter Sep 09.
96 F350 CC LB 4X4 AT 292K- creamed by Brain Dead Cager turning left 02/18/10 RIP
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1997 4x4 f250 psd with full Banks Powerpack, turbo, intercooler,large exhaust pipe. Fordnut74 WVO conversion! 203 degree T-stat. BTS-transmission with super duty cooler. 60 gallon aux tank for burning WVO
a drill or saw should be fine, i just wouldn't try using a torch on it. all though i did weld one once. don't ask i was young and dumb then------------now i'm older and dumb [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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<span style="color: #FF0000">#18</span> not all trucks are created equal
THE COWBOY'S CADILLAC,<span style="color: #FF0000">my pics.</span>, 96 F-350 XLT SC DRW PSD, 4x4 conversion(D60),more oil than you, auto tranny by faubion motorsports, tuned by a backwoods hack(thanks tony), 230cc injectors, D66 turbo, head studs, 910 valvesprings, open element intake, homebuilt fuel system, 3-4"DP, intercooler with homemade spider and piping, 5" chrome stacks with turnouts, front hitch(for my weight bar), member of the <span style="color: #FF0000">WNYPA</span>
If Diesel fuel wasn't flammable, it wouldn't be a fuel.
It may not be nearly as inflammable as gasoline but that doesn't mean it's safe to put an acetylene torch flame in the same place as Diesel fuel - let alone a confined space like a fuel tank.
Nitrogen or argon purging is a good idea but might not be adequate when using an oxygen-acetylene cutting torch - a cutting torch supplies an excess of oxygen and might undo your inert-gas purge.
A saw sounds like a good idea. Don't force it if the blade gets dull; that could cause a local hotspot, too.
In the infamous words of Abbie Hoffman, "Use your head and you'll get to keep it".
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Douglas Campbell, P.E.
1986 Isuzu P'up, 177,673.8 miles.
- Hella headlights (highly recommended)
- DOT C-2 back end (also recommended)
- R-12 air conditioner converted to R-406a. Saved ozone and money
- 4.1:1 final drive converted to 3.4:1. Quieter, better mileage but it's a good thing I live in the flat Midwest.
- 9/22/2007, age 21: Still running well when reluctantly sent away for reincarnation, due to body & frame rust.
I have wondered this as well. I know the flash point of diesel fuel is pretty high in the liquid state, but I am not so sure of the vapor. Does anybody know if the fumes/vapor is equally hard to ignite?
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2002 F250 7.3 4x4 CC auto converted to WVO
I have cut open alot of fuel oil tanks and a few gas tanks with no problems. I usually remove all plugs and conect a pipe to the exaust of my truck and to one of the openings in the tank, and let run for a few minutes. The exaust takes away all the oxygen. I continue to let the truck run until it's opened up completely. Have not had a problem yet. But usually when I start this everyone leaves. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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1997 F350 CC,LB, 4x4, 303,000+ Hard mi.,E40D, 12.50x33x16.5 BFG A/T on aluminum, Gooseneck, Homemade Open Air Intake, Glow Plug Bypass, Door dinger gone!, 3"stainless downpipe, viper alarm w/remote start,Cobra 148, Diamond headlights, clear turn signals, homemade Brightbox mod, Silvania Silverstars,Train air horn,Beans Tranny Savers, Sparky's AIC,A/C mod, Edge evolution,WVO,WMO
Wife's ride-2001 Dodge ext.cab,360,at,4x4,pop up gooseneck, pretty much stock.
I wouldn't worry too much about the diesel if using a saw or drill, as the flash point is very high. Just keep an extinguisher handy as a precaution. If you are using an acetylene torch, there is risk anytime you cut into an enclosed container, as unburnt gas can collect and create an explosion hazard.
Torch is what I use (probably not the best way to go) but after cutting the ends out of several to use as culverts in big creeks back in the boonies, I've had no problems. I do let the exaust run the whole time.
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1997 F350 CC,LB, 4x4, 303,000+ Hard mi.,E40D, 12.50x33x16.5 BFG A/T on aluminum, Gooseneck, Homemade Open Air Intake, Glow Plug Bypass, Door dinger gone!, 3"stainless downpipe, viper alarm w/remote start,Cobra 148, Diamond headlights, clear turn signals, homemade Brightbox mod, Silvania Silverstars,Train air horn,Beans Tranny Savers, Sparky's AIC,A/C mod, Edge evolution,WVO,WMO
Wife's ride-2001 Dodge ext.cab,360,at,4x4,pop up gooseneck, pretty much stock.
My old copy of Baumeister & Marks "Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers" says the minimum flash point spec is 100 degrees Farenheit for D-1 and 125 degrees Fahrenheit for D-2.
Exhaust from an idling Diesel engine contains a lot of oxygen. Diesel engines don't run anywhere near a stoichiometric air-fuel ratio unless they're pedal-to-the-metal.
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Douglas Campbell, P.E.
1986 Isuzu P'up, 177,673.8 miles.
- Hella headlights (highly recommended)
- DOT C-2 back end (also recommended)
- R-12 air conditioner converted to R-406a. Saved ozone and money
- 4.1:1 final drive converted to 3.4:1. Quieter, better mileage but it's a good thing I live in the flat Midwest.
- 9/22/2007, age 21: Still running well when reluctantly sent away for reincarnation, due to body & frame rust.
Ok, so if I'm not mistaken, everyone agrees I can use a hole saw or drill bit to penetrate. I can use a nibbler attachment for my drill or a recip saw to work the hole however I need.
I don't even own a torch [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img], so I should be good to go there.
Wait a minute... if the flash point of liquid diesel is so much higher, maybe I'll just fill the tank to the brim to eliminate vapors all together! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Seriously, thanks for the opinions/ info/ help.
Devo
__________________
Work like there is a tomorrow and play like there isn't.
87 F250 Lariat SC LB 4X4 with an NA 6.9, C6 with deep pan and 4.10's. Dana 50 IFS up front. 263K mi. 3" exhaust, Ram air. New aluminum radiator and coolant filter Sep 09.
96 F350 CC LB 4X4 AT 292K- creamed by Brain Dead Cager turning left 02/18/10 RIP
I have cut several diesel tanks open with a torch with no exaust, it is just a slow lazy flame no big poof or anything and no maybe I'm not very smart but hey diesel burns way different than gas I would never do that with gas
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2000 F-250 supercab off-road 4x4 6-spd Diablo Sport chip, autometer boost & pyro, DIY Tymar, straight pipe dumping before the wheel
I have cut/welded on many fuel tanks including 1 or 2 gasoline tanks. Just fill it with water, and you should be fine. There is always that chance of explosion any time that you are cutting on any enclosed tank, but when it is full of water that chance is all but eliminated.
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2001 F250, extended cab, short bed, 7.3, 6 speed,
adjustable 2-18K mod
4" turbo back exhaust
Ford Severe Duty AIS intake with fender sleve
AFE Torque Booster tube
modified IDM
ITP overboost eliminator
Beans Stage 2 split shots
AIH delete
Firestone 5,000lb air bags in the rear
leveling kit up front custom built from OEM Ford springs instead of buying aftermarket stuff
FORD ball joints modified to be greasable instead of using aftermarket stuff
clear turn signals and brake lights
IF YOU ARE GONNA MOD. IT BEFORE 100K DON'T CRY WHEN A REP. FROM FORD OR INTERNATIONAL VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY
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