Starting to build the 2 tank system.

[JR3342]

Got the first piece built last night. Rolled 18 ft. 5/8" copper tubing around cat 1r0749 for a gc. Style filter heater. Filled the tube with salt to prevent kinks. Still needs fittings for heater hoses and brackets mounted. Should make a lot of heat.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using AutoGuide.com App

[airfooter]

Originally Posted by JR3342

Got the first piece built last night. Rolled 18 ft. 5/8" copper tubing around cat 1r0749 for a gc. Style filter heater. Filled the tube with salt to prevent kinks. Still needs fittings for heater hoses and brackets mounted. Should make a lot of heat.

Oh yeah, that'll get HOT. I used compression to NPT and NPT to 5/8" hose barbs to get from tubing to heater hose. Also consider some kind of 'blanket' to mitigate heat loss from the 80mph air rushing past the filter. I had a modified soft-sided cooler I used over my VO filter with a coolant wrap like yours. (I only use 3/8" tubing though!! )

I also recommend an aux coolant pump. These are about $60 and will improve the coolant flow thru the aux fuel system loop. We typically tee into the heater core supply and return for coolant - and I recommend adding a valve on the heater core supply, so you can turn it OFF in summer. This will give you colder A/C and also more flow thru the new loop.

Have you considered tube-in-hose heated fuel lines? We run 3/8" alum fuel line inside 3/4" heater hose using 1/2" brass or black iron tee's at the ends. You have to drill out the stops in compression adapters so the tubing will slide all the way thru the tee into the heater hose. Heater hose is about $1.25/ft, alum tubing is about $1/ft and the ends can be made for $6ea. This is cheaper than 30R9 and most other 'hoses' rated for bio-d and the pressures we need in a PSD.

[simone0414]

X2 to everything Jason said. HIH gives you the best heat transfer.

Nice heater wrap by the way.

[JR3342]

It's getting it all . Tih, mb coolant pump, wvo designs pump and heated pu. Going to wrap the coil in black rubber then large exhaust band clamp w/mnt bracket. The tank , pump , filter, coolant filter are all going into a tool box. Fphe only thing going under hood. Hunting cragis list for deep tool box now. Getting many parts from local / craigs / Ebay to keep cost down and do a quality system at a good price. Had the copper tube already plus the rubber and clamps. Total into filter wrap is $.68 in salt. Beats $300 for a gc with generic filter. Got about 75 of the cats in the shed won't be buying any filters fot a few years.

[JR3342]

Just got the tool box $75 off craigs. And a aluminum tank that fits good in the box $100 with shipping off ebay. Staying way under budget. More pics soon.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC

[JR3342]

Recent progress.
The tool box everything goes into.

The recycled fuel tank from a boat.

The tank heater 5/8 alum tube hand rolled.

The filter. Insulated, painted and ready to install.

And a fuel cart I made to quit carrying jugs to the driveway.

More pics soon.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC

[F250Truckin]

Keep the info coming JR. Good work.

[JR3342]

Tank is cut. And heater installed.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC

[F250Truckin]

Beautiful work. I like your workshop. Looks real comfy.

[JR3342]

The other side of the deck goes into the pool. In case it gets to hot working.
Also got the 53 ft step deck for a jumbo work bench.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC

[JR3342]

Hatch installed. Pu tube in place.
Tube in hose fittings ready to go.


Sent from my DROID BIONIC

[airfooter]

You need to secure that tubing in the tank. Just the wave motion will kill it eventually, but design it with a root beer float in mind. A chunk of semi-solid oil floating around in your tank (cold weather) is alot like a wrecking ball.

Either do a big baffle around the tubing like a Frybrid in-tank HE or build a cage that tacks to the tank bottom - just keep that stuff from being able to move around or you'll wind up with coolant in your fuel!

I would consider a baffle in the tank that your set-up drops into. Put some 3/4" dia. holes a few inches off the bottom and only have a couple 3/8" holes AT the bottom and put them on the front (of truck) part of the baffle. This way, when tank is low and ya go up a hill or around the corner - all the oil won't run away from the pick-up. Oh, and make sure pick-up is as close to the bottom as possible, but keep in mind the tank will change shape a little with temp swings and load.

[JR3342]

Ill have to see what I can come up with. Alum scarce around here. Luckily it never gets cold enough here for solid oil.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC

[JR3342]

Progress update.
Heres what I've done so far today.
more pics later today.

1999 f250 7.3 4x2. Diy 6637, diy wvo conversion underway.

[JR3342]

Plumbing done. Wiring next , then top of engine work.



I call it the spaghetti bowl.