Starting to build the 2 tank system.

[theandyman]

don't quite follow the coolant lines, but it seems the coolant circuit is in parallel to the heater core? any reason not to run them in series (besides cooler interior in winter)?

if the resistance in the heater core is much lower than through the veggie loop, then wouldn't coolant mostly travel thru the heater core?

[JR3342]

3rd ball valve controls flow to heater core to slow the flow to it

[timmyboy76]

i'll take pics in morning and post up where i tapped my lines. To feedthe tank, i grabbed the line off p/s block, under the alternator. ran to an aux cooant pump, plumbedto tank, then returned to a solenoid valve, then to heater vcore line, that feeds the watermpump. You'll se, ran hoses down frame, and up thru the crossmember, poking thru the front. Cant tell at all any things there, was pretty stoked.

[airfooter]

Originally Posted by theandyman

don't quite follow the coolant lines, but it seems the coolant circuit is in parallel to the heater core? any reason not to run them in series (besides cooler interior in winter)?

Too much resistance. The PSD's coolant flow is pretty anemic at low RPM's already. I strongly recommend using an aux coolant pump (~$60) on VO loop for this reason.

Originally Posted by theandyman

if the resistance in the heater core is much lower than through the veggie loop, then wouldn't coolant mostly travel thru the heater core?

Yes. I put a valve on the heater core supply as well. I usually close it in summer and find that 1/4 way open is adequate for cabin heat in winter. After adding the coolant pump on VO loop, this was less important for flow to heat the fuel - but the benefit of COLDER A/C in summer is worth it anyway!!!

[JR3342]

Made some progress today. Will be finished tomorrow.
The pass side was worse that expected to do 6hrs.



All the vo lines are done. Just diesel to hook up in am.

[airfooter]

You should've come over. I typically spend about 1.5 hours on the under-hood plumbing - and I don't (didn't ) have your fancy-smancy square head socket. I do remove the spider, CAC tube and lift bracket for the pass-side rear.

I strongly recommend you cover that SS hose with something. It will eat a hole in anything it touches!! At least slice some cheap fuel hose or vinyl tubing and put over the parts in pic that are near anything. For the D2 lines, slip the SS hose inside some tubing before you put the 2nd end on.

[JR3342]

I got some black hose to cover it. Makes a better pic without it.i found some write loom had made a big wear mark in the cac tube, must be cheap alum.
Another hour and it would have.been on the low boy headed that way.

[airfooter]

Originally Posted by JR3342

I got some black hose to cover it. Makes a better pic without it.i found some write loom had made a big wear mark in the cac tube, must be cheap alum.
Another hour and it would have.been on the low boy headed that way.

Its the only alum I've ever seen you can hang a magnet on!!

That spot on the pass-side CAC tube is a common wear spot. You should check the 42pin harness where it passes over the drivers-side valve cover... Years of vibration can take its toll on stuff...

Another common failure point is the OD wire where it rests on top of the steering column. This WILL FAIL on every one of these trucks!

Copied from another forum:

Originally Posted by SkySkiJason

Finally made time to fix this pesky little problem. I will echo the scores of X and Super Duty owners who have said repeatedly over the years to FIX this BEFORE the wires get chaffed enough to short... I didn't listen even though I knew about this when I bought the X and waited for it to fail :-X19.

The problem:

The wires for OD switch travel thru the shift lever and after exiting they cross over the top of the column and plug into the wiring harness. Since these wires need to allow the shifter to move as well as the steering wheel to tilt - the wires also move when these things are moved. As the wires move back and forth this 1/4", they eventually wear thru the insulation and expose the wires. Initially, my OD lite would come on for no reason and eventually I was blowing fuses when shifting or using OD switch. As far as I can tell, THIS WILL HAPPEN TO EVERY ONE OF THESE TRUCKS - eventually. Seriously, its an EASY fix if ya do it NOW - it takes 20min, a phillips screwdriver and some tape!

First, remove the (3) screws that hold the plastic trim around shifter. Unscrew the tilt steering lever and remove lower plastic piece. With ignition in 'on' position, press the little shiny ball on the bottom of key cylinder and remove the cylinder.


Now you can slip the upper plastic over the shift lever and get it out of the way.


Since I'm a dum redneck and waited until I had a problem, mine was worn completely thru one of the wires. I was trying to strip it back and repair it in place and pulled the other 2 wires apart where they were crimped at the hold-down thingy attached to this black trim piece.


If I was smarter, I would have just unplugged the wire from harness and removed the pin in my hand and slipped the shifter lever, wire and black thing off so I could take the whole thing out where I could get to it... Don't try to slide that black piece off the shifter, its too big and will tear.

Originally Posted by SkySkiJason

With parts in hand, I sat down at the workbench and soldered the wires back together and covered them in shrink tubing.


This is a 2nd small chaffed area, I put enough shrink tubing over all the wires to cover this area as well.


To finish the repair, I put shrink tubing over the the whole thing and put it back in the truck!!


While I was in there screwing around, I found the black w/pink stripe wire that triggers the 'key in ignition' chime. I just unplugged the thing from the lock cylinder and taped it up!! NO MORE CHIME every time I open the door with the keys in. WOOOHOOO! All other chimes still work. I just taped up the connector thingy. I'm not sure why I was too much of a weenie to just cut the thing off and put a piece of shrink tubing over the end of the wire... :-roll

[JR3342]

Status update. Pumps are on, tank has some red in it to leak test. Pressure good, air out of lines. Now the bad, one jic 90 is bad and leaks no matter how i tighten it. No spares, and it's in the mfkr spot. Gotta work tomoro, two week delay again.

[JR3342]

Status update. System running..
Only one small coolant leak so far, pump a little noisy.needs a rubber around it to dampen vibrations. So far looks like success. More tomorrow.
1999 f250 7.3 4x2. Diy 6637, diy wvo conversion underway.

[simone0414]

Originally Posted by JR3342

Status update. System running..
Only one small coolant leak so far, pump a little noisy.needs a rubber around it to dampen vibrations. So far looks like success. More tomorrow.
1999 f250 7.3 4x2. Diy 6637, diy wvo conversion underway.

[JR3342]

Latest updates.
Ran on vo all weekend. Took it for a 80 + highway run, no issues. Thought i had coolant and vo mixing, false alarm. ( need a better flashlight).
Had to order new crimped ptfe lines from paragon today. The summit diy lines won't stay sealed at the ends ( not a fan of fuel dripping on exhaust ) . The pre made line were way cheaper than the diy stuff, and they come with the clear covering.
Timed out to a13 second flush the line all the way to the vo tank.
The fuel line from tih termination is to hot to hold, but the temp gauge only reads 140-160, i believe the tee fitting and reducer are acting as a heat sink giving Loewe than actual readings, and the sensor doesn't get down into the flowing fuel.
Spent some extra time putting pieces of heater hose over things that can rub and wear, valve cover wiring, cac tubes and such. Put in the shut off valve to heater core for cooler ac.
Will update when the new lines arrive.

[JR3342]

Got the paragon lines installed. No leaks. Ran it all weekend no issues.
Everything is getting real hot.
Had the Cps go out right after i changed the lines. Put a Ford one back in it, now i can use delay wipers again without stalling.
Can't tell system is running except for different fuel pressure reading, the smell of exhaust, and of course diesel gauge never moves.
So far I'd call it a success.

1999 f250 7.3 4x2. Diy 6637, diy wvo conversion .

[airfooter]

Originally Posted by JR3342

Can't tell system is running except for different fuel pressure reading, the smell of exhaust, and of course diesel gauge never moves.

That never gets old, I promise!! Its been over 270,000 miles now and I still get a big smile after driving a few 100mi and the diesel gauge doesn't move.

[JR3342]

HERES THE PARTS LIST.
TOOK A WHILE TO GET IT POSTED, COULDN'T DO IT FROM MOBILE.