Thermostat temp for WVO

[khuseby]

I'm going to be ordering a nomad kit from greasel next month, and I was wondering if my 180degree thermostat is going to be hot enough to heat the veggie oil, what with the coolant lines routed to the bed of the truck.

[CPUNeck]

Keith,

Welcome to the site. There is lots of good info here and if I were you, I'd do a lot of reading prior to droppin the Nomad kind of dough [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] There is also good info on a couple other boards like infopop I'd look up info on the Nomad in these places. Good luck. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]

[khuseby]

Thanks for the heads up- on second thought I think I'll drop said dough on a welder and build my own system.
(if it sounds too good to be true...) [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]

[ToddT]

With regards to the 180 degree thermostat, I'd go to the 203 from Bob Riley. I understand the 203 is a much better operating temp for the diesel engine. I'm running the 203 plus Evans non-water coolant. Works fine for me.

I don't think the Nomad system will do an adequate job of filtration and water separation. But, I like the idea of having a chamber beneath the main tank that is filled with hot coolant.

I bought a 60 gallon tank from Northern Tools and had a local welder add on a 1 1/2" deep chamber for the coolant. Nice plan, but when I was flushing out the fuel tank I found it leaked into this scabbed on coolant chamber. Bummer. They must have burned a small hole in it when they were welding. It wouldn't be practical to repair so I now have a 5 1/2 gallon reserve tank for my veggie.

But, the idea still has merit. Buy a nice alum. diamondplate tank from somebody like Northern and weld on a chamber beneath it for coolant.

Todd T

[biobenz]

I will second the tank "bath" concept. I am also in the middle of a two tank conversion to my Benz and at first I was going to run a coil of soft copper through the vegie tank until some pointed out that copper needed to be supported or the stress would cause it to crack and leak coolant into the fuel and that would wreak havoc with the IP, soooo, I am having my b-in-law build a fuel tank with a three sided "collar" tank for the coolant. Tank is finsihed and has been pressure tested; no leaks [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] In a week's time we fit it to the trunk of the car and then in goes some fuel, some left over biodiesel from last year's production that was in cold storage waiting for some heat to come along. I have ball valves on the coolant lines from the engine bay to be able to tunr on and turn off the heat as wanted. I plan on running biodiesel in the second tank mostly, but it may be necessary to run some SVO/WVO in it too, so heat on or off depending on the fuel used and the time of year it is being used in.
This two tank system is, IMHO, the absolute answer in running biodiesel in winter weather conditions where it will have a tendency to gel, but not with heat it won't [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
The whole tank is getting a layer of spray on foam insulation that will help keep the heat in a bit better in cooler temps.

[KHB1]

Hotter is better. Plumb your lines to get fuel hotest before going
into injectors then back along fuel supply line to tank on end of
line. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]KHB1