Is anyone running used automatic trans fluid in their PSD? I have been running since this past summer. I was running a 50/50 mix with diesel, but now with the cold weather I am at about a third trans fluid. Anyway, the truck runs great. Back before I started running the trans fluid I had one injector that had a noticeably different sound when I performed an injector buzz test. Now, five months later I run the test and that injector sound the same as the others. I'm guessing that not only am I getting basically free fuel, but it has a possitive effect on the injectors as well. What are your thoughts?
Is anyone running used automatic trans fluid in their PSD? I have been running since this past summer. I was running a 50/50 mix with diesel, but now with the cold weather I am at about a third trans fluid. Anyway, the truck runs great. Back before I started running the trans fluid I had one injector that had a noticeably different sound when I performed an injector buzz test. Now, five months later I run the test and that injector sound the same as the others. I'm guessing that not only am I getting basically free fuel, but it has a possitive effect on the injectors as well. What are your thoughts?
Others have had similare results...good luck keep it up
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1993 Crewcab 4x4 coverted extendcab,7ft bed , upgraded rebuilt E4OD w/ shift, new shocks, 3.55, Eagle aluminum wheels,1996 bumper, front buckets, ATS turbo w/ 4inch custom exhaust in process,60 gal aux tank for alt-- err extra fuel
But as the thread went along it pointed more to the IP and possibly the advance mech. I was wondering if ATF might clean up the IP. I just swapped trannies for a guy in a '87 Honda and I have 1 gal of ATF. I know I should filter it but how and is a gallon enough in 20 gal of #2 to do anything???
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
There was an article in diesel power mag about this. It was full of 'at your own risk' statements. The guy used 90% tranny fluid and had a portable pump and filter setup.
I know I should filter it but how and is a gallon enough in 20 gal of #2 to do anything???
I filter mine with a two micron fuel filter (you want a filter that won't bypass) I got at NAPA. I have a pressure gage on it so that I will know when it starts to clog. Right now it is hooked up to a pump that is run with a drill (about 10-12 $$ at a hardware store). It's kind of a pain, but I haven't found a good electric pump that will do the job yet.
I would say that any amount you add to the #2 fuel will help. Before I started using it, I added 2 stroke oil to help lube the ULSD.
Toptech, check that article in the Diesel Power Mag, you can buy most of what he uses to pump and filter in the northern tool catalogue
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03 F-350 DRW Lariat 7.3,4x4 6-Speed, 4.10Gears , 4 inch ProComp lift, BFG AT LT315/75R16, 3 in. spacer between duals.
GT38R 1.0 Housing
Banks Monster Exhaust, w/Turbo Elbow, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Kit, South Bend Stage 2 Clutch and Cyro'ed Flywheel
DP 80econ -Stuck there for now because someone stole my SCT box
2 Optima Red Tops
Auto Meter Boost and Pyro Gauges
8,200lbs---Cat Scale---Thats me and and 38 Gallons of Diesel
1987 Mustang GT Cobra Clone- crate motor, cage and more suspension than I know what to do with
Loves to run down Vettes and Vipers on the road course
34 Ft Kaufman Solid Deck 2-Car Hauler
Last edited by TonkaThunder; 12-27-2008 at 05:19 PM.
I saw that article. I use the same pump that he has. I got it from Northern Tool. The pump is great. I use it for WVO. I extended the power cord that came with it. The hoses suck. They are so stiff now that it is hard to use. ATF may not do that to them, but WVO did. The pump is great. fast, easy to take apart and clean, and even the internals look sturdy. I think it was $180 or so.
BZ
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1998 E350 Club Wagon SD
DPTuner 40T, 80E, 100
4" turbo back exhaust
I filter mine with a two micron fuel filter (you want a filter that won't bypass) I got at NAPA. I have a pressure gage on it so that I will know when it starts to clog. Right now it is hooked up to a pump that is run with a drill (about 10-12 $$ at a hardware store). It's kind of a pain, but I haven't found a good electric pump that will do the job yet.
I would say that any amount you add to the #2 fuel will help. Before I started using it, I added 2 stroke oil to help lube the ULSD.
Thanks for the info. Now I know what I am looking for.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
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03 F-350 DRW Lariat 7.3,4x4 6-Speed, 4.10Gears , 4 inch ProComp lift, BFG AT LT315/75R16, 3 in. spacer between duals.
GT38R 1.0 Housing
Banks Monster Exhaust, w/Turbo Elbow, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Kit, South Bend Stage 2 Clutch and Cyro'ed Flywheel
DP 80econ -Stuck there for now because someone stole my SCT box
2 Optima Red Tops
Auto Meter Boost and Pyro Gauges
8,200lbs---Cat Scale---Thats me and and 38 Gallons of Diesel
1987 Mustang GT Cobra Clone- crate motor, cage and more suspension than I know what to do with
Loves to run down Vettes and Vipers on the road course
I get oil in the cubbies. I pour through the ez-strainers 600-400-200-100 microns into a 55gal drum. I try to let it settle as long as possible. The I have a 1/2 HP water pump from Harbor Freight and run it through two house water filters (10" x 2.5"). 30 micron and 5 micron. Then it goes through a goldenrod waterblock filter just to be safe. The oil I get is pretty good. I do the crackle test once and a while. It always tests good. Once in a while I get a cubbie that has water in it, so I always smell before I pour.
I have a 60 gal vertical air compressor tank that I was going to set up for vacuum dewatering, but I have not needed to set it up yet.
I am reworking my setup now. I am going to add pressure guages between the pump and the 30 micron filter and another between the 30 micron and the 5 micron. I hope to watch the pressures to know which filter is clogged. Right now when the flow gets too slow for me to watch, I change the 30 filter. If the flow returns, that is all I do, if the flow is still slow, I change the 5 micron.
I did 100 gallons in two hours a few weeks ago from cubbies to filtered barrels.
BZ
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1998 E350 Club Wagon SD
DPTuner 40T, 80E, 100
4" turbo back exhaust
I get oil in the cubbies. Then it goes through a goldenrod waterblock filter just to be safe. The oil I get is pretty good. I do the crackle test once and a while. It always tests good. Once in a while I get a cubbie that has water in it, so I always smell before I pour.
I did 100 gallons in two hours a few weeks ago from cubbies to filtered barrels.
BZ
I get my oil in the cubbies too. But it takes me alot longer than that too clean up 100 gallons!!! Whats a goldenrod waterblock? And how do you crackle test? And how can you smell the difference?
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03 F-350 DRW Lariat 7.3,4x4 6-Speed, 4.10Gears , 4 inch ProComp lift, BFG AT LT315/75R16, 3 in. spacer between duals.
GT38R 1.0 Housing
Banks Monster Exhaust, w/Turbo Elbow, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Kit, South Bend Stage 2 Clutch and Cyro'ed Flywheel
DP 80econ -Stuck there for now because someone stole my SCT box
2 Optima Red Tops
Auto Meter Boost and Pyro Gauges
8,200lbs---Cat Scale---Thats me and and 38 Gallons of Diesel
1987 Mustang GT Cobra Clone- crate motor, cage and more suspension than I know what to do with
Loves to run down Vettes and Vipers on the road course
The goldenrod is a filter. The clear base with a screw in element. You can get different micron ratings or a waterblock element. When the filter encounters water a chemical inside adsorbs the water and clogs the filter stopping the flow. You can see it. It looks like worms or something coming out of the holes in the element. From what I have read since I installed it, there are filters with more filter area for the money, but this works fine since I have it after the 5 micron filter just for water block.
The crackle test is when you put a little bit of oil on a frying pan to heat it. You should be able to get it hot without any crackling sounds. The crackle is the water boiling out of the oil. This tells you if there is any entrained water.
When I get cubbies with water in them the oil smells rancid, sour, like vomit. I don't know how long this takes or if it is the heat down here, but if it smells at all, it goes right into the trash can. Every one that has smelled, I pull the cubbie out of the box and it has water in it. I have a can settling for two months to see what happens, but in my opinion it is not worth the trouble. I toss it and move on.
I just realized we hijacked this thread. Sorry TopTech. TonkaThunder if you need anything else, PM me or start a thread. I would like others input anyway and this will not be found under an ATF heading.
BZ
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1998 E350 Club Wagon SD
DPTuner 40T, 80E, 100
4" turbo back exhaust
How are you guys doing that have been running ATF for a while? I just heard about it last night from a guy at work and it sounds interesting. So now the research begins.
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2008 4x4 King Ranch Super Duty Job 3, 8" 3rd Coast Suspension lift, 22x10.5 BMF Novakane 8's, 37x13.50 Toyo M/T's, Amp Research Steps, Weathertech Digital Floor mats, 47 gallon Transfer Flow Midship tank, Line-X
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