vegtherm

[ajohansson]

i am putting in the itp reg return and fuel bowl delete for my veg upgrade. On a different forum someone mentioned that by going reg return i have lessened the amount of heat to the oil as it is now flowing through the heads instead of sitting in there getting hot before injection. WHat are your takes on this. Is the flow so great that I am not getting the oil heated in the head like deadheading. It was mentioned that I should look at using a supplemental heat source like a vegetherm or FPHE. I cant fit a fphe where I would want it so i thought about a vegtherm with vegsensor that shuts it off at 180 degrees right before my valve in the engine compartment. I know it takes a vegtherm like 40 seconds to get fully hot. Would there be problem with putting the trigger for the vegtherm on the ignition so the VO is getting heated at start up and as soon as I reach 160 degree engine temp I can switch over. WHat i want to alleviate is having to switch a vegtherm on with one switch 40 seconds befoer my valves. If I can leave it on all the time it would make for easeri operation for when the wife drives it. I have also heard about coking or burning inside a vegetherm and creating little flakes. Has anyone experienced this. My instalation would be post filter so I do have concerns about this occuring. I will be putting in the vegesensor to avaoid excessive heating. I am curius if the people who have had problems were not using the vegesensor.

Like I said earlier I longer have the fuel bowl and now have the ITP delete block mounted to the HPOP at the top of the valley and SS tubes running into the front ports on the heads. I have not run the engine yet but assume those will get up to engine temp because they are connected to the motor. My point is if this delete block is getting as hot as the motor and the SS tubes going into the heads are getting just as hot, do i really need a vegtherm.


Any help would be appreciated.

[hheynow]

Originally Posted by ajohansson

I know it takes a vegtherm like 40 seconds to get fully hot. Would there be problem with putting the trigger for the vegtherm on the ignition so the VO is getting heated at start up and as soon as I reach 160 degree engine temp I can switch over. WHat i want to alleviate is having to switch a vegtherm on with one switch 40 seconds befoer my valves. If I can leave it on all the time it would make for easeri operation for when the wife drives it. I have also heard about coking or burning inside a vegetherm and creating little flakes. Has anyone experienced this. My instalation would be post filter so I do have concerns about this occuring.

The Vegthern uses a Bosch relay. Mine is wired on my Pollak valve so ONLY when I'm on my front tank is it always on. My '97 has two stock tanks. No Vegtherm switch. No fear of it draining my batteries should I forget to switch it off. You can use a fuse tap to prevent this. I had a polymerization clog in mine this past September. To clean the snot I used a rifle bore cleaning brush. I too feared that chicken skin flakes would dislodge so I put in a 26 micron ss screen filter made by Holley post Vegtherm. There are inexpensive inline see through glass filters at Summit Racing for less than $15. Many have used them post Vegtherm without a problem, but I have a problem with glass at hot temps.


This photo of a Cummins with the filter is from PlantDrive's website.

[hheynow]

Found THIS on ebay.