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Old 11-07-2012, 08:52 AM   #46 (permalink)
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OK - I'm getting ready to hook up the WI system and need to know some basic knowledge. On the boost system, intercooler, which side is the engine intake, driver's side? What is the best place to take the boost signal from for the pressure switch? How should it be hooked up? That should be about all I have to know to get this hooked up and running. Maybe in a week, I will have it going down the road and be able to post some results.
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2000 F250 Superduty 180K and counting 4X4 4R100 Glow Shift gauge - EGT - Boost - Tranny Temp Fuel Pressure on an A pillar mount Diesel Site boots Transgo shift kit K & N Stage II air filter 5" exhaust RiffRaff AIH to boost mod CCV mod DP-Tuner with W85 settings Amsoil Bypass oil filter 6.0 tranny cooler, W80, Cooling Mist water injection.
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:32 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Jerry I spliced a tee into my boost gauge line. I don't know anything bout fords. U mite look at turbo and see if it's got boost controlled wastegate and trace that line back to manifold. 0r tee into it somewhere.
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Old 11-08-2012, 09:06 AM   #48 (permalink)
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The passenger side of the intercooler goes back into the engine. A popular place to inject water is at the AIH plug.

My pressure switch is tied into the MAP line
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:31 PM   #49 (permalink)
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After my last tank of 60% WMO 40% D2 the truck was smoking worse than ever before, and took about 10 gallons of D2 until it finally quit. So after reading on hear about the WI helping I put together a small setup using a WW pump and a fuel injector, if it works well I will upgrade the pump and buy a nice nozzle. As of right now I have $24 into it for the pressure switch.

I installed the setup last saturday morning and then went to the mountains, which usually makes the truck smoke pretty bad because of all the idling, and it hasn't smoked yet, so its looking like the water is working. I just put another 15 gallons of mostly WATF in the truck and will run it another 150 miles this weekend and will update whether or not it smokes monday morning.
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:11 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
The passenger side of the intercooler goes back into the engine. A popular place to inject water is at the AIH plug.

My pressure switch is tied into the MAP line
Spot on!!!

The CAC tube may be a better place to install WI nozzle. The idea is if you got any 'drizzle' when truck is off, it will run down into the CAC and not into the heads.

The MAP line is a rubber hose that goes from front of the 'spider' over to the MAP sensor - on pass-side of engine near HVAC stuff. It comes out of bottom of spider near red & green lines for waste gate.

Boost switch can also go in AIH hole though! Here's a sweeet product for that:
Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - AIH Delete Plug

Also, some have reported 'rust' in the heads, etc from using WI. They recommend adding water-soluble tool/cutting oil to the water to mitigate this problem. Something like Napa water soluable cutting oil 765-1526.
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2001 F-350, DRW, 4x4, XLT Crew Cab, flat bed, 7.3, 6 spd, Dipricol Optix gauges on pillar - EGT, Boost, Fuel Press., HPO Press. - No Muffler, AIH delete, SB Con OFE, AC code injctrs (160cc), T4/S366 turbo. Vegistroke-inspired WVO system w/180,000 trouble-free miles! BTS tunes, 203 t-stat w/billet housing, '07 grill/lites and big, bad front bumper!

2000 Excursion 4x4 Limited - BTS trans and tunes, AIS, Frybrid/V3 SVO conversion 120k VO miles - wrecked 4/13, RIP...

That's 300k miles on SVO between them!

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Old 11-09-2012, 07:44 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Great advice everyone and thanks for the help. More to come as I get at this project. I'm currently running my boost gauge out of the AIH hole. Any way to do both from this location?

Airfooter - my brain isn't working this morning. What is the CAC. I will probably remember by the time I get to the truck, but help my poor old brain along.
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2000 F250 Superduty 180K and counting 4X4 4R100 Glow Shift gauge - EGT - Boost - Tranny Temp Fuel Pressure on an A pillar mount Diesel Site boots Transgo shift kit K & N Stage II air filter 5" exhaust RiffRaff AIH to boost mod CCV mod DP-Tuner with W85 settings Amsoil Bypass oil filter 6.0 tranny cooler, W80, Cooling Mist water injection.

Last edited by F250Truckin; 11-09-2012 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:45 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Charge Air Cooler - aka intercooler.

I forgot about this write-up Kirk posted on another forum awhile back. You can see how water in the line between check valve or solenoid valve and nozzle could/would trickle into spider/heads...


Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkharrod View Post
Just finished installing my Cooling Mist water injection unit. My new mod stands for

Air Intake Heater Delete Water Injection Mod

I did this mod strictly for cleaning the combustion chamber on my Greasecar Truck, so I just needed 1 of the smallest injectors, and the 150 psi Shurflo pump. If you are looking to cool high EGTs, you can add a tee, one or two more injectors and a 250 psi pump.

I took a Cummins oil pan pug, and drilled and tapped it for 1/8" NPT. Then I screwed in the water injection mister in the bottom end of the plug, and the water supply hose barb on the other end of the tapped plug. The mister is on the left side of the drain plug in the pic below. It is a 6.2 GPH injector. On the right is the 1/8 NPT X 1/4 ID hose barb.



I put JBWeld around the mister and the hose barb.


The Water Injection plug is then installed in place of the Air intake Heater. Delete the Air Intake Heater. Remove the red wire from the solenoid. Leave the other wire ( it is said to be blue, but mine was black) on the solenoid. Remove the ground wire and then remove the heater (13/16 wrench). Replace heater with the AIHDWI plug. You may get the DTC P0541. Clear the code and it will not come back.



The water injection is controlled by a boost switch. I mounted the boost switch in the fuse panel wiring area. The boost switch is set to come on at 8 psi. I tee'd into the MAP sensor line. It is 1/4' vacuum hose. I used a brass 1/4" tee and a 1/4" compression fitting to control the boost switch. The water supply hose is .180" ID and 1/4" OD. I couldn't find a barb that fit the .180" ID poly hose, so I just used a piece of 1/4" ID rubber hose to "step down" until I can get to the hardware store tomorrow and get 1/4" ID poly hose. You can see that in the picture after the one below.




The water supply hose and the boost hose is running across the back of the engine, through the firewall into the cab in some wire loom. Those other hose? Those are my other "experiments" (see sig).



I put the water tank and pump in the backseat of the cab. It will partially wedge under the bench seat in my super cab. It is wedged tightly. Filled it with distilled water. The backseat location is temporary but it would keep it from freezing and/or allow it to thaw quicker. The 150 psi Shurflo pump is quiet. It has a check valve, and I installed a fuse. The CV is hard to see in the pic below but it has the orange piece on it. The tank I have is 1.5 gallon. I plan on putting a bigger tank in the bed one day. I have it in the backseat so I can keep an eye on it all for a while.



I put an master ON/OFF switch and a LED light that is wired to the pump in the dash ,so the LED comes on when the pump is spraying. I can see (and hear) when the pump is on, so I can calibrate the boost switch, since the switch has no calibrations. It just has a allen head (5/64") that you turn counter clockwise to have it come on at lower boost levels, and vice versa.

So there you have it. The Air Intake Heater Delete Water Injection Mod. If anyone would like a parts list, PM me. You definitely can piece this together yourself more cheaply than buying the kit, UNLESS you get the kit on a big sale, like I did. The kit, plus plug, switch, LED, wiring, and wire loom was $240.
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Choose wisely. Or PLEASE post pics of the carnage!!!

2001 F-350, DRW, 4x4, XLT Crew Cab, flat bed, 7.3, 6 spd, Dipricol Optix gauges on pillar - EGT, Boost, Fuel Press., HPO Press. - No Muffler, AIH delete, SB Con OFE, AC code injctrs (160cc), T4/S366 turbo. Vegistroke-inspired WVO system w/180,000 trouble-free miles! BTS tunes, 203 t-stat w/billet housing, '07 grill/lites and big, bad front bumper!

2000 Excursion 4x4 Limited - BTS trans and tunes, AIS, Frybrid/V3 SVO conversion 120k VO miles - wrecked 4/13, RIP...

That's 300k miles on SVO between them!

veggiegarage.com autorized installer

Last edited by airfooter; 11-09-2012 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:58 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Jason if your getting rust in the heads & its from WI wouldn't that indicate you are injecting too much water or at too low a temp or both??

According to the instructions to my WI kit ( which I have had sitting on the shelf for over a year) the nozzle should be in the vertical position. This is to reduce/eliminate any dripping that may occur. The location where KirkH has his is horrizontal. Not sure how big a deal this is though.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:01 AM   #54 (permalink)
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I predict that anyone running WMO will see a tremendous reduction in smoking/coking issues when they run water.

I really think this is what you guys need.

Can't wait to see the results.
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:50 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takotruckin View Post
After my last tank of 60% WMO 40% D2 the truck was smoking worse than ever before, and took about 10 gallons of D2 until it finally quit. So after reading on hear about the WI helping I put together a small setup using a WW pump and a fuel injector, if it works well I will upgrade the pump and buy a nice nozzle. As of right now I have $24 into it for the pressure switch.

I installed the setup last saturday morning and then went to the mountains, which usually makes the truck smoke pretty bad because of all the idling, and it hasn't smoked yet, so its looking like the water is working. I just put another 15 gallons of mostly WATF in the truck and will run it another 150 miles this weekend and will update whether or not it smokes monday morning.
My initial attemp with mixing was 50/50 (WMO/D2), then I read from my notes that WMO has to be thinned out to match the viscosity of D2. the only way to do that is with RUG or Karosene, I elected RUG. Mixing 80% WMO and 20% RUG, then 30% D2, has proven to be the best combo to get away from smoke. Then again I also contribute the lack of smoke with WI/HOD installled.

You will enjoy the extra power from the WI.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:25 PM   #56 (permalink)
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You can't add more injectors at that location. I'm thinking of putting two injectors in the CAC tube just below the spider. The metal in the tube seems thick enough to support this. There really should be no pressure on the tube and the injectors have an oring to seal the hole without a lot of pressure. Hand tighten only. Only thing I really hate is trying to pry those boots off. I want to vacuum as I drill so there is nothing to suck into the engine. Next try at the project will probably not be until late Sunday or Monday. Have to work all night tonight so will be good for nothing tomorrow.
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2000 F250 Superduty 180K and counting 4X4 4R100 Glow Shift gauge - EGT - Boost - Tranny Temp Fuel Pressure on an A pillar mount Diesel Site boots Transgo shift kit K & N Stage II air filter 5" exhaust RiffRaff AIH to boost mod CCV mod DP-Tuner with W85 settings Amsoil Bypass oil filter 6.0 tranny cooler, W80, Cooling Mist water injection.
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:08 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koya View Post
My initial attemp with mixing was 50/50 (WMO/D2), then I read from my notes that WMO has to be thinned out to match the viscosity of D2. the only way to do that is with RUG or Karosene, I elected RUG. Mixing 80% WMO and 20% RUG, then 30% D2, has proven to be the best combo to get away from smoke. Then again I also contribute the lack of smoke with WI/HOD installled.

You will enjoy the extra power from the WI.

My WMO is typically 15-20% RUG.

I am REALLY liking the WI. It has a small power gain, and the truck even smokes less black under load. Once I get back from this trip I will probably try to find some -20 washer fluid to run in it.
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:11 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simone0414 View Post
Jason if your getting rust in the heads & its from WI wouldn't that indicate you are injecting too much water or at too low a temp or both??

According to the instructions to my WI kit ( which I have had sitting on the shelf for over a year) the nozzle should be in the vertical position. This is to reduce/eliminate any dripping that may occur. The location where KirkH has his is horrizontal. Not sure how big a deal this is though.
Not necessarily. Flash rusting can occur at very high temps. Iron + Oxygen + Water = iron oxide/rust. I doubt it looks like a carbon steel bolt on a salt water dock in there, but some of the 'heavy hitters' in the drag racing/sled pulling world are who reported corrosion and use/recommend the cutting oil additive. Granted, these guys are prolly spraying A LOT more water than we ever will - but they also bury the needle on the EGT gauge on every pass!!

I agree, Kirk's set-up may not be ideal.


Quote:
Originally Posted by F250Truckin View Post
Only thing I really hate is trying to pry those boots off. I want to vacuum as I drill so there is nothing to suck into the engine. Next try at the project will probably not be until late Sunday or Monday. Have to work all night tonight so will be good for nothing tomorrow.
Jerry, its not that hard to pull the tube off. Just be sure to thoroughly degrease everything before re-assembly so ya don't blow boots off the first time you make some boost! I use purple power/simple green then brake clean to get everything 'squeaky clean'.
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Choose wisely. Or PLEASE post pics of the carnage!!!

2001 F-350, DRW, 4x4, XLT Crew Cab, flat bed, 7.3, 6 spd, Dipricol Optix gauges on pillar - EGT, Boost, Fuel Press., HPO Press. - No Muffler, AIH delete, SB Con OFE, AC code injctrs (160cc), T4/S366 turbo. Vegistroke-inspired WVO system w/180,000 trouble-free miles! BTS tunes, 203 t-stat w/billet housing, '07 grill/lites and big, bad front bumper!

2000 Excursion 4x4 Limited - BTS trans and tunes, AIS, Frybrid/V3 SVO conversion 120k VO miles - wrecked 4/13, RIP...

That's 300k miles on SVO between them!

veggiegarage.com autorized installer
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:01 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Be aware that -20 washer fluid contains very little methyl. I bought some locally that was advertised as -25. I also bought a methyl hydrometer just for testing this stuff as I'm in really cold climate. The -25 fluid tested at +17 F. I'm currently trying to find the pure stuff so I can make the ideal mix listed at 49% methyl 51% water.
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2000 F250 Superduty 180K and counting 4X4 4R100 Glow Shift gauge - EGT - Boost - Tranny Temp Fuel Pressure on an A pillar mount Diesel Site boots Transgo shift kit K & N Stage II air filter 5" exhaust RiffRaff AIH to boost mod CCV mod DP-Tuner with W85 settings Amsoil Bypass oil filter 6.0 tranny cooler, W80, Cooling Mist water injection.
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:42 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F250Truckin View Post
Be aware that -20 washer fluid contains very little methyl. I bought some locally that was advertised as -25. I also bought a methyl hydrometer just for testing this stuff as I'm in really cold climate. The -25 fluid tested at +17 F. I'm currently trying to find the pure stuff so I can make the ideal mix listed at 49% methyl 51% water.
Put it in the freezer, and take it back frozen solid!!

Here's a chart for reference:
Methanol Freeze Protected Heat-Transfer Fluids


Freezing Point
Methanol Concentration
(%) by volume 0 13 24 35 46 56 66 75 83 92 100
Temperature F 32 20 0 -15 -40 -65 -95 -115 -125 -130 -144
__________________
Choose wisely. Or PLEASE post pics of the carnage!!!

2001 F-350, DRW, 4x4, XLT Crew Cab, flat bed, 7.3, 6 spd, Dipricol Optix gauges on pillar - EGT, Boost, Fuel Press., HPO Press. - No Muffler, AIH delete, SB Con OFE, AC code injctrs (160cc), T4/S366 turbo. Vegistroke-inspired WVO system w/180,000 trouble-free miles! BTS tunes, 203 t-stat w/billet housing, '07 grill/lites and big, bad front bumper!

2000 Excursion 4x4 Limited - BTS trans and tunes, AIS, Frybrid/V3 SVO conversion 120k VO miles - wrecked 4/13, RIP...

That's 300k miles on SVO between them!

veggiegarage.com autorized installer
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