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Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels Discussion of biodiesel (homegrown or store bought) and other alternative fuels for diesel-powered vehicles.

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Old 11-21-2012, 08:17 AM   #76 (permalink)
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Jerry, mix 1 gallon of -20 blue windshield washer fluid with 3 bottles of heet the yellow can. That's close to a 50-50 mix. What it feels like to me is a bigger turbo. Not like a bunch more down low torque. It may take a while to clean up the mess in your engine. When it does u should be able to tell a difference. What boost pressures do you have switches set at? The small one probally won't clean it up ( nozzle I mean). Once it gets cleaned up it should aid in keeping carbon from building up. Pull the ears back on that old ford for 40 miles, if your big nozzles working it should clean it up. Keep us updated.
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Old 11-21-2012, 09:29 AM   #77 (permalink)
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It may take a while to clean up the mess in your engine. When it does u should be able to tell a difference. What boost pressures do you have switches set at? The small one probally won't clean it up ( nozzle I mean). Once it gets cleaned up it should aid in keeping carbon from building up. Pull the ears back on that old ford for 40 miles, if your big nozzles working it should clean it up. Keep us updated.
I agree with this. After about 300 miles of running the water I noticed that my truck is running better than ever before, even when the water is not injecting. And I haven't been running WMO near as long as you.
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Old 11-21-2012, 03:46 PM   #78 (permalink)
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I'm having some problems with leaks and one injector not firing. The big one of course so I'm not getting the work out of I should. Even at that, I seem to be smoking less already. I have to have it all patched together before the December first for the long trip. If it can be cleaned up, that will do it. We should be going about 1,500 miles so I will know a lot by the time I get back.

By the way, a small leak at 200 psi gets rid of a lot of water in a hurry.
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:38 PM   #79 (permalink)
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I'm having a terrible time with small leaks. I have in line filters that are brass and I can't get them to seal. Anybody have a suggestion for a sealant that will work?
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:27 AM   #80 (permalink)
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I'm having a terrible time with small leaks. I have in line filters that are brass and I can't get them to seal. Anybody have a suggestion for a sealant that will work?
If they are pipe threads I have had the best luck with plain ole Teflon tape, it seems to work better than the paste
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:02 AM   #81 (permalink)
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I was thinking of using the paste but I have both here so I can start with the tape first. The threads are so fine I wasn't sure how the tape would work. Wind chills this morning are in the 0 F range so it has to be something that will work in that range. Tape it is. Results coming up later today.
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:17 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Much looking forward Jerry.
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:44 AM   #83 (permalink)
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I was thinking of using the paste but I have both here so I can start with the tape first. The threads are so fine I wasn't sure how the tape would work. Wind chills this morning are in the 0 F range so it has to be something that will work in that range. Tape it is. Results coming up later today.
Jerry, can you post photos where the leak are coming from? If you are using the barb type fitting, I recommend using a hair dryer/heat gun on the tubing, to the point it is soft and easy to slide over the fitting. Let cool of then use a clamp. Are you using the hard milky looking tubing or the clear soft type? Either one use the hair dryer of heat gun on the tubing. Once the tubing cools of it will griped the fitting and seal.
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:20 PM   #84 (permalink)
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I'm having a terrible time with small leaks. I have in line filters that are brass and I can't get them to seal. Anybody have a suggestion for a sealant that will work?
Loctite 545 THREAD SEALANT. I did not say thread locker...

Check at local hydraulic/hose shops, Grainger, Fastenal - or of course Amazon!

'Regular' thread sealant sucks. Tape can be effective, if used properly. Most people use too much.
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:47 AM   #85 (permalink)
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I used the tape and it worked. The leaks were coming from inline filters that were three piece. I taped them up, spun the ends around with pressure from my fingers so the tape was snug and then joined all together. Tight as a drum now. I ran about 40 miles yesterday afternoon. It was dark when I got home, but I don't think I have any leaks and the truck ran wonderful. I started this project "dirty". I was smoking a fair amount and I wanted to see if the WI would clean up what I had and then keep it clean. Right now, the smoke is almost undetectable, a major improvement. If I let it idle a very short time, you can see the smoke begin to develop. I can live with that. Road trip next week will tell the tale. Now if I can just get that last LED light to work like it should.

I have the jets set at 3 psi (50 cc) and 9 psi (350 cc). At 55 mph almost nothing happens. at 60 plus the small jet is on almost constantly. It was very windy yesterday so that may have contributed. The big jet only comes on when I jump on it. I'm sure that will increase when I start pulling the big stuff.

More later. I will try to get the pics up soon.
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Old 11-24-2012, 01:37 PM   #86 (permalink)
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I'm having a strange problem. The small jet has a green LED light that works perfect. The larger jet has an orange LED that burns about 10 seconds and then burns out. I have been through two of them now and both went the same way. From what they indicate, the jets are working perfect but I would like to monitor them all the time. The small jet is wired to the LED light, pump and solenoid. The big jet is wired in series with the small jet and is wired to the LED light and second solenoid. It does not allow the second jet to fire until the pressure switch turns on the solenoid and the LED. Cannot figure out why it is burning out the light. Diagrammed it would be power from master switch to first pressure switch, jumped to second pressure switch. Power lead after pressure switch to first LED to ground, first solenoid and pump to ground. Second pressure switch to second solenoid and LED to ground. If you can figure it out I would appreciate any comment.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:02 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Kinda sounds like the LED is getting too much voltage
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:16 PM   #88 (permalink)
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For regular Led it`s need 750 om resistor to work,as I see wire is SAME (or not)for 1 and 2 pressure swich,so perhaps you can put another Led to test,you cant wire in series with solenoid.
It`s only for INDICATION,to know real work of solenoid you need 3 diode min 5 amp in series and led w/o resistor on each end of diode brige,or light bulb 10-20 w,just like glowplug light taster.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:17 PM   #89 (permalink)
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The LEDs I'm using have a built in resistor. Works wonderful for the first light with the pump and solenoid but just will not go with the second one. I agree that is probably getting too much voltage. I'm very poor at this and am not sure how bad it is needed anyway as I know the second jet is working.
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:17 AM   #90 (permalink)
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too much voltage-perhaps but I don`t think so,have you V-meter to test,if it`s wired in series with solenoid I think that is no good,in start solenoid get more amp,do you try to conect paralel with solenoid only,spare one just for test?
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