WMO Info

[jski55]

Milner351: yes to the pvc being ok to use with wmo

[jstrauss]

got mine here:
www.avogadroslabsupply.com you need the 0.850 to 0.090 one

That takes me to an eBay store that is not valid.

Will this one do the job? I gather I am just trying to measure how thick or thin the mixture is compared to #2 diesel?

Bellwether Specific Gravity Hydrometer Cat. No. 6603-11.

[jski55]

hmm that was teh address in the packing slip..... no matter
If you use a hydrometer that has the range i specified you should be good.
And yes the link you gave looks like the type you will need but you specifically need one calibrated to your range.

[firemediceric]

Has anyone done this on a '99 or newer?

Any concerns about getting the WMO or ATF cleaned up before filtering? What I am taliking about is contaminants that may be mixed with the WMO or WATF such as water, coolant, etc that could be the result of a bad head gasket on the vehicle serviced or just lazy mechanics co-mingling waste products in the collection drum. I have one source already that told me I can take the WMO and WATF, but he can't guarantee that his employees will be vigilant in making sure no other junk gets mixed in.

Before I filter WVO, I do a mist wash to address acids, caustic grill cleaners, salts, sugars and so on. Of course, I then need to dry the WVO afterwards. Has anyone done a mist wash on WMO and have tips on doing it successfully?

It may be time for me to do some experimenting. People already call me either Crazy or Stupid for the blend I'm running now, but the $$$ I'm saving lets me tolerate the name calling.

[milner351]

firemedic it sounds like you could teach some of us a few tricks based on your WVO experience. I've only run 10 gallons of mixed WMO through my '97 powerstroke at about a 50/50 mix - summer time only. I have it in a large old fuel oil tank that I use for my waste oil furnace - so, it gravity separates the water / condensation to the bottom - which I drain off periodically. The the solids also drain to the bottom naturally.

As for a pump / filter set up - I have a lot to learn there.... I need something better than my furnace pump - it is way too slow.

[jski55]

Originally Posted by firemediceric

Has anyone done this on a '99 or newer?

Any concerns about getting the WMO or ATF cleaned up before filtering? What I am taliking about is contaminants that may be mixed with the WMO or WATF such as water, coolant, etc that could be the result of a bad head gasket on the vehicle serviced or just lazy mechanics co-mingling waste products in the collection drum. I have one source already that told me I can take the WMO and WATF, but he can't guarantee that his employees will be vigilant in making sure no other junk gets mixed in.

Before I filter WVO, I do a mist wash to address acids, caustic grill cleaners, salts, sugars and so on. Of course, I then need to dry the WVO afterwards. Has anyone done a mist wash on WMO and have tips on doing it successfully?

It may be time for me to do some experimenting. People already call me either Crazy or Stupid for the blend I'm running now, but the $$$ I'm saving lets me tolerate the name calling.

Yes on an 01
havent ever washed wmo but have taken out water.

[94_turbo]

Actually I am looking for a diesel motor that will bolt up to a Mercruiser outdrive. I wonder if the old diesel 350 Caddy motor is worth finding. Wonder if there is a Mercedes 350SD adapter. Hate to have to make one.[/quote] youll need to find a olds bellhousing adaptor---as i believe this was the bolt pattern for the 350 dsl---and will need the exhaust manifolds off of a olds gas engine for the boat--then away you go--

[06Clone]

Good to know. Thanks.

[dieselfordguy]

I'm sorry to beat a dead hourse - but Do I need to use a hydrometer? What is it for?

[firemediceric]

Originally Posted by jski55

Yes on an 01

How much time or miles on the WMO? Any first hand knowledge of others running WMO on '99s or newer? I'd be interested in the time/mileage they have been doing it, along with the results including UOA.

[jski55]

Originally Posted by dieselfordguy

I'm sorry to beat a dead hourse - but Do I need to use a hydrometer? What is it for?

You dont NEED to use one. It helps determine specific gravity or in this case viscosity of the fuel you are preparing. I did a post that had a link to oilcrusher.5u

[firemediceric]

Home is an interesting site. Anyone know what the "dual-pole polymer filtration pods" are that they claim to be the backbone of the system?

They say that this is what the military has been using since the 1940s and continues to use today to address Ph and acid issues as well as water and coolant.

I think I could build the same thing myself for a lot less money, if I knew how to address the issues they claim their filtration pods handle.

[moxyspirit]

Originally Posted by dieselfordguy

I'm sorry to beat a dead hourse - but Do I need to use a hydrometer? What is it for?

You really only need to use it if you are making BioDiesel. It is one of the tests used to validate your veg oil conversion.


I believe he was using it to verify that his blend isn't to thick. The older diesels (with a high pressure fuel pump) cannot handle thick fuel. The newer Powerstroke only has a lift fuel pump and then the injector does the rest. If the thick can get through the lift pump than the injector will never see the thick because the head will heat it up to 200 plus degrees.

I still do not understand why the powerstroke is not considered a common rail system. Common rail shared on each head.

[tweener]

To answer a few questions in the above posts.

1) guys worried about water / coolant in your waste motor oil.

Answer - I have worked as a Mech. for over 15 years, in about 4 shops, and I can say that I have never seen coolant or water in our oil tanks in a precentage greater than 1%......Heck, at my shop right now, i have 265 gallon waste oil tank, and I doubt I get even a quart of water or coolant in that tank by the time it is full. I have yet to drain water off the bottom of my tank in over 4 years.

it is the HOME OWNERS that bring in oil that is 50% water, and they wonder why we send them away and won't take it. NO ONE takes oil with water in it, so mechanics don't put water in it, otherwise no one will buy it from you. Also, when you have a 500 gallon WMO tank, and it takes a month to 6 months to fill, any water has PLENTY of time to settle to the bottom and be drained off. So if you are getting oil from a SHOP, chances are the oil is GOOD.

2) pumps

Answer - i am using a DIESEL FUEL TRANSFER pump, like the ones farmers use to fuel their tractors froma service tank in the back of their pick-up. If you thin your oil out about 33% diesel, and 66% WMO, the oil moves through pretty good, pump is a little slow sounding, but ok. I have my stuff prefiltered to 30 micron by this stage...and am using the transfer pump to move it through either a 10 or 5 micron filter. 55 gallons at a time.

Really good pumps for pumping oil at LOW PRESSURE like this, would be DIAPHRAGM pumps, either air powered or electric powered. can find used air powered diaphragm pumps on ebay that are capable of about 5-10 GPM for $100-$200.

If A guy really gets into WMO, I think a centerfuge from dieselcraft would be ideal.

[rpm1]

What about heating the wmo like in a vegistroke kit? Can 100% be run like that?