I’ve been lurking here for a few weeks trying to gain as much info as possible on alternative fuels and this seems to be just the place to do that!
I am currently putting together a filtering and holding set up for wvo; surprisingly the biggest obstacle is actually getting the waste oil! Who knew old fryer oil would be so hard to come by?
Anyway, after spending some time here I am wondering if wmo might be the smarter way to go, and since all of you here seem to have the data on your own systems I figured to throw my questions out here and hope for the best; so here goes!
Is there an advantage of wmo vs wvo?
To use wmo, are there any alterations to be done to the vehicle?
Can straight wmo be run in a vehicle, or does it have to be cut?
Is there an issue with running wmo in cold climates? (I live in the tundra of northern New York) Would it have to be heated like wvo?
Have you found wmo as hard to come by as wvo?
How much does wmo have to be filtered, to what micron?
Are there issues with different weight oils being mixed?
Is the jury still out on ATF being used in a diesel?
Are there specific make vehicles that are better suited for this type of alternative fuel? Are there models years that are better than others? The reason I ask this last question is that I don’t have my truck yet; I was waiting to make sure I had the filtering system as perfected as possible and run a couple of tanks through a friends truck that runs on wvo before I committed to a diesel vehicle.
Anything I forgot to ask about?
Thank you all for your anticipated replies; I look forward to spending more time here
WTW
PS anyone in the Albany, NY or Plattsburgh NY areas?
I am running WMO because I ran into the same problem, getting the WVO. All the veggi oil around here was already spoken for.
First off, what engine are you going to be doing this in. The 7.3 does great but I've read the 6.0 and 6.4 may not be so good. If you have one of these, do some more research. That being said, my experience is with the 7.3 IDI.
First (and I can't stress this enough) FILTER!!!!! Take a look on the first page of this thread to see my filter setup. My final filter is 2 micron.
You do not need to mod the truck for WMO. Start with a 25% WMO and 75% diesel. Go up from there to 50/50. Take little steps up from the 50/50 mix. Your truck will let you know when your blend is too high. ATF is actually good for your injectors (cleans them) and works great in your mix (again FILTER!!!). DO NOT get your WMO from anyplace that can't guarantee what is in it (NO break fluid or coolant). Advance Auto, Autozone and others like them can have who knows what in there. You will have to check around and may have to pay some for it, but it can be found.
Hope this helps some.
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1994 F350 IDI with factory Turbo, crew cab long bed with dual tanks
I am running WMO because I ran into the same problem, getting the WVO. All the veggi oil around here was already spoken for.
First off, what engine are you going to be doing this in. The 7.3 does great but I've read the 6.0 and 6.4 may not be so good. If you have one of these, do some more research. That being said, my experience is with the 7.3 IDI.
First (and I can't stress this enough) FILTER!!!!! Take a look on the first page of this thread to see my filter setup. My final filter is 2 micron.
You do not need to mod the truck for WMO. Start with a 25% WMO and 75% diesel. Go up from there to 50/50. Take little steps up from the 50/50 mix. Your truck will let you know when your blend is too high. ATF is actually good for your injectors (cleans them) and works great in your mix (again FILTER!!!). DO NOT get your WMO from anyplace that can't guarantee what is in it (NO break fluid or coolant). Advance Auto, Autozone and others like them can have who knows what in there. You will have to check around and may have to pay some for it, but it can be found.
Hope this helps some.
My filtering set up for wvo should be sufficient; it will filter down to 1 micron.
The truck I will be getting will be a '99 or newer Ford 7.3 PSD
Any input on cold weather use? I know you won't have the extreme cold like we do up here in the Adirondacks
Hi guys, I have been watching this thread with some interest.
My job is with an oil recovery outfit that produces #5 spec fuel for paving plant burners. The main thing to remember along with what you have already talked about is water content, this will cause imense problems for an otherwise good batch of recovered product. Some methods to remove water involve heat, heat and chemicals (bio soft and methonol) as well as cold non chemical gravity seperators. As for solid removal filters are one way but as some have found out not practical for volume, a "shaker" is what we use to remove the solids. The shaker has the oil pumped in at a steady rate from the top to the shaker containing a 40 mesh screen, the liquid gravity feeds to a sub tank to be pumped to the finish tank.
Some oils are not desireable, fire resistant hydralic oils and some synthetics cause problems, the synthetics do not readily respond to water removal techniques when they are present in large proportional quantity. For the most part unless a high % of light ends (gas) is present we bulk all collected oil to produce finished #5 oil.
I have considered using some #5 in my D.I. 7.3 but have not had a chance to try it, pre heating will have to be considered regardless of location or season, the #5 is best when delivered to the combustion point at 160 to 190* F, a Davco 286 filter/air remover/heater may work.
For the sake of helping everone speak the same language about oil,
#1 is clear kerosene
#2 kerosene
#3 jet A
#4 pump diesel, heating oil, (JP-4 ultra clean diesel low vapor dispersion) pre heated for optimum btu recovery
#5 spec fuel (recovered lube oils) #5 off spec, higher than allowed PCB's
#6 bunker oil, used in ships and power plants pre heating is a must
#7 crude, also known as light sweet
#8 crude, heavy crude, shale post heat
In closing, most oils you will encounter / recover are suited to be used for fuel, should you come across a large amount for free or very cheap you may want to spend a couple of bucks for a lab profile to check for PCB's and halogens.
like stated above, more smoke when engine is cold, once warm, virtually no smoke....if you idle it, it begins to smoke again...tromp down on accelerator, one puff of smoke. WMO is like "turning your pump up" as it has more BTU's per gallon,so that is why it smokes a little and increases power. You could have a chip burnt for WMO, and likely it would eliminate all smoke eccept when cold....can't overcome smoke from WMO when engine and WNO are cold (under 160* ???)
Ran my first batch of WMO (rotella T from my truck) ATF also from my truck and a little wvo. Went for a 100 mile round trip ride. No issues. I filltred everything through a 2 micron racor before it went in truck and then it goes through my veg system (dont know if I will call it that anymore!) which is filtered through another donalson filter under pressure. So far I am happy. No major smoking issues. Exhaust smells normal.
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1999.5 F-350 CC-SB - Just getting started on her...
2003 Excursion 4x4 - 7.3 liter - 80k on WVO
Veggie Oil Conversion - HOH, GFS Diesel Tank, Stock tank modified for veggie with Hotfox, Hydraforce Valves, FPHE, ARC filter wraps & twin FASS/DPP HPFP's. ITP Reg Return/fuel bowl delete, HPX, AIH, 6.0 IC & Tranny Cooler - Dieselsite 203 T-stat & Coolant Filter - CAT ELC - BTS Valve Body - AIS with fender mod - Dome light overide switch - MBRP 4" Turbo Back - Bully Dog 50HP "McClain Veggie Tune" Programmer - Full A pillar Trans,Pyr,Oil Pres,Engine Temp - Overhead Pod Fuel Press, Boost, Volt meter
All of these questions have been answered many times in past threads for the new guys coming in to read. Just do a search and bingo have much to read with lots of input.
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1993 Crewcab 4x4 coverted extendcab,7ft bed , upgraded rebuilt E4OD w/ shift, new shocks, 3.55, Eagle aluminum wheels,1996 bumper, front buckets, ATS turbo w/ 4inch custom exhaust in process,60 gal aux tank for alt-- err extra fuel
hello tweener, if you could fill us in on the large oil tanks in the shops where you work . do the shop owners pay to have the oil collected ? or does someone buy the oil from them ? i thought they were paying to get rid of it , but just guessing .and i suppose there is government regulations for them to deal with, regarding disposal ?
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