The first pic has four jars. From left to right, the first jar is waste motor oil that had plain tap water added to it. The second jar is a 50/50 mix of my WVO blend and BD. The third jar is a mix of my WVO blend and WMO. The fourth jar is a combination of water, brake fluid and coolant.
In all of the jars I mixed the contents in, I shook them vigorously and let them sit on a windowsill. It took almost a week for the contaminants to seperate out of the WMO, but I got out everything I added to the oil. The combination of WVO blend and BD appears to still be thoroughly mixed without any seperation. The jar with the WVO blend and the WMO does show some seperation. It took weeks for this seperation to appear. It's not a clear line of demarkation but areas of seperation and color difference can be seen from top to bottom. Forget about seeing any light through the WMO. It is not the least bit opaque.
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Daily driver:87 F250 XLT Lariat 6.9NA LWB, Super Cab.
Soon to be Daily Driver: 93 F250 XLT 7.3NA
At work: 56 EMD GP9 16-567C 1750hp Non-Turbo (Using around 900 gallons of Diesel a week!)
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1993 Crewcab 4x4 coverted extendcab,7ft bed , upgraded rebuilt E4OD w/ shift, new shocks, 3.55, Eagle aluminum wheels,1996 bumper, front buckets, ATS turbo w/ 4inch custom exhaust in process,60 gal aux tank for alt-- err extra fuel
For the most part, my supply of WVO is holding out for the moment, despite someone occassionaly helping themeselves to what the restaurants have left out for me. So I think I will stick with the WVO for now, for the most part. Given what I have seen in the glass jars, I plan to augment the WVO with some WMO as I come across it.
I'm doing this testing now for my own peace of mind should my WVO dry up all together and I have to go a different route.
In the mean time, as I get WMO from my own oil changes, family or the guys at work, I plan to put it in with the WVO in my initial filter step. This will cause the WMO to be mixed with the WVO, meaning both will get mist washed to neutralize & settle out contaminants, the mix will be heated and settled to dewater the soon to be fuel, and the homogenous mix will be recirculated causing it to several times pass through my series of filters which includes a carbon filter taking it down to 1-2 micron nominal and a water block filter.
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1999 F-350 and 1981 Mercedes 300 SD. Both running a single tank WVO blend.
Truck: Tymar type intake, Zoo Dad, muffler delete, CCV mod, By-pass coolant filter, Dahl 100 fuel filter Harpoon & Hutch mod, upgrade to 3/8" fuel line and HP oil X-over, Oil Guard by-pass, Scan gauge II. Loving veg. oil
Mercedes: Installed a Goldenrod fuel/water seperator and injector line heaters. Also loving Veg oil for fuel.
BTW anyone interested in purchasing JUST the Perma Cool filter PRM-8100 from Summit (not the entire unit), it seems everyone is back ordered until the middle of Oct./Nov.
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1994 F350 IDI with factory Turbo, crew cab long bed with dual tanks
Howdy, Doublenaught spy here, i've run a blend of 50/50 aw32 hyd and diesel in an older powerstroke filtered to 5 micron for about 4 passes in a high beta filter, lost two injectors recently, the motor is high time and maybe they were ready to go. Replaced just those two and am running again but am starting to see abit of smoke at an idle and getting a bit nervous, I know i should have been smart enuf to change all injectors while i had her down but I'm cheap and i thought i could get away with it. I know the supply of the oil is fine , we generate it here, but do i need to back off the ratio or is the consensus that i am just a tight wad that should have changed them all? yer thoughts wold be appreciated p.s. great forum and i hate arabs
Thanks for the reply, she has 210k, but some of the time is from idling in the yard to jump start other vehicles., After about 10K on the blend with no real smoke issues we had a bunck of blue smoke found the K&N Filter had clogged, pulled it but the soot smoke was still there. Local Ford guy scoped the ecm and found two injectors had coded, sorry i dont have the code #'s , do I need them?, Went back to store bought fuel and no smoke for two tanks and then went right back to my blend and started to see the soot back, put a tank of store bought and the smoke is still there.I only see this at an idle, no power issues and the fuel econ has risen almost 16% on this blend. Oh yeah forgot to mention that this truck has a performance chip in the ecm, do you need the make and model of that? I really want to stay on a blend fo this fuel just so i'm not sending money to those people who are shooting at my countrymen. Any advice you can give would be appreciated, and if you need the code # I can get them Thanks.
As far as what ECM codes the injectors gave you, that wouldn't help me much. I was more curious as to if one of the mechanical parts in the injector failed, or if the pintle/bore clearance was worn excessively, or if the tips burned off.
I'm an IDI guy so I've never messed with the computer controlled injectors. What I do believe is that WMO blending isn't really a good idea if your engine idles alot. All of us seem to experience lots of smoke at idle. The engine needs to be working hard in order to generate enough cylinder temperature to completely burn the oil.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Thanks, I can't tell you if the tips were burnt off, i will check with muy buddy that pulled em and see if he remebers, but i believe he said one had an electrical code since it wasn't firing at all. The truck does not need to idle excessivily anymore since we have another for that job, but if some smoke is normal at an idle, and it doesn't get worse, heck i'll smoke.The only question i have is if this doesn't cause injector damage/spray pattern change then wouldn't the smoke follow the fuel i.e store bought should smoke much less. Don;'t get me wrong i love using this stuff. A friend once said Ya know the arabs are gonna hate us anyway, so let's give us a reason to hate us, make their children work the street corners, not build palaces for the great nephew's third cousin. If i do reopoen and pull the injectors i'm gonna pull all and do it myself so i can compare the two new ones and the originals, but honestly i ain't gonna do it unless i really hafto, it's not an easy job. Should i run an injector cleaner? i have been adding stadyne injector cleaner since we have been doing this, Perhaps that's not necessary since the lubricity of the blend far exceeds the ultra low sulpher diesel store fuel? I will lean off a bit on the oil and report in a tank or two, Thanks agin for yer input and if anyone else cares to opin an idea i am very willing to learn, best wishes from the south doublenaught spy
Just checked back in and read that one of you is burning AW32. AW32 is NOT WMO. It is heat resistant hydraulic pump and gear oil used for cutting through rock. As it is naphthenic base oil you're darn tootin it is going to smoke - especially at idle. The principal uses of naphthenic oils are as transformer oils, coolants, solvents, cutting fluids, and sometime as a lubricant when money is scarce. It's main purpose is for drilling through rock. Its flash point is in the 400s instead of the 300s. I would not use more than 10% AW32 and then you should throw in three ounces of acetone and three ounces of xylene for every 10 gallons of mixed fuel. The acetone helps the mix burn more completely (less smoke) and the xylene (zylene) helps to break down the carbon and hydrogen (i.e., hydrocarbons) components of the mineral oil (think plastic stuff). Yes, AW32 is mineral based oil.
As for the continued smoking, I believe it takes quite some time to completely flush the fuel system of traces of WMO once you start running straight diesel fuel. Imagine if you had a 2 liter bottle filled with WMO, you poured the WMO out and were left with the residue inside the bottle. How many times would you have to pour diesel fuel in and rinse and re-empty before you got it all out?
I know in mine if I switch to diesel 10-15 miles from home, when I open the water drain on the fuel filter, the fuel is still mostly black. It's thin like diesel but it's not clear/green. It doesn't take very much WMO to turn pure diesel fuel totally black.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Oops, well it seems i need to do some more reading up on my oils, guess i'm one of the OIls' oil crowd. Frankly i just thought that aw32 was a lighter version of standard petroleum based motor oil. Could you suggest any resources to educate myself? Thanks for your input
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