when mine starts smoking too much it helps a bit to blow it out a bit By this I mean on acceleration to step on the go pedal a bit to get the revs to around 2600 and temps up. This seems to help clean things up a bit and smoke is reduced. Every 4th or 5th week. I put about 15 gal of straight #2 in after running most of the 50/50 out.
I've been thinking of pumping the remainder out and filling straight #2 at home to see if it cleans out any faster.
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2000 PSD XLT CC, AT, 4x4, DP-Tuner, straight exhaust. Sonnax/Tricumulator, 6.0 tranny cooler. Cyberdyne tranny guage. Straight #2 and every now and then a bit of tranny fluid.
just a guess here.... Filter it down to 2 micron with the permacool. Then centrifuge. I would think this would let you pass more oil through the centrifuge before filling it with junk before having to clean it out. Besides, I doubt the filteration infront and inline with the centrifuge would slow anything down.
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2000 PSD XLT CC, AT, 4x4, DP-Tuner, straight exhaust. Sonnax/Tricumulator, 6.0 tranny cooler. Cyberdyne tranny guage. Straight #2 and every now and then a bit of tranny fluid.
Is acid a general problem with WMO? I am thinking about recycling my WMO and running it in my 6.0 without washing it. It would be filtered to 1 or 2 microns. I would only be running 2-4 gallons at a time in my 46 gallon tank.
Anyone see a problem with this?
__________________ 2004 F250 CC FX4 / 46g Transfer Flow / ARP Studs / Coolant Filter / CCV
This question was never answered. Does anybody have any input?
Two answers:
It will do it all.
It will do it all, but it will take several cycles and several centrifuge cleanings to get it clean enough to run it through 7.3 injectors. The suspended soot will not come out unless you run to through a series of bypass type (toilet roll) filters or let it sit and separate for two or more years.
i just picked up a 2 micon filter and filter head and a 30 micron filter and filter head to replace my oem 10 micron filter. Is it OK to dump the oil right in my tank wo filtering it before it goes in the truck?
i don't have anywhere to setup a filtering system.
would i be able to just rely on these filters to do the trick or is not prefiltering a major NO NO?
also, i understand running wmo seems to let the truck run a little smoother, (or atleast it did on the 4 gallons i ran... would you credit this to a loss of power? that the wmo doesn't explode as intense?
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
i just picked up a 2 micon filter and filter head and a 30 micron filter and filter head to replace my oem 10 micron filter. Is it OK to dump the oil right in my tank wo filtering it before it goes in the truck?
i don't have anywhere to setup a filtering system.
would i be able to just rely on these filters to do the trick or is not prefiltering a major NO NO?
also, i understand running wmo seems to let the truck run a little smoother, (or atleast it did on the 4 gallons i ran... would you credit this to a loss of power? that the wmo doesn't explode as intense?
The problem with using your onboard filters as your only filters is that those will be the filters that get clogged . . . while you're driving. Unless you carry spares and are willing to do filter changes roadside under any weather condition, along with storing your used filter until you get to somewhere you can throw it away, you should try to find another way. Not to mention, as your filter gets more and more clogged, your pump is going to have to work that much harder.
If you live in an apartment, you're pretty much out of luck unless you are incredibly neat with it.
I use a plastic tub from Home Depot and keep my totally portable system in it. I can't put the lid on it because I have a pvc pipe that will reach to the bottom of a 55 gallon drum, if I didn't need to do that, it would be able to fit in the tub with the lid closed.
I do all my filtering on my sidewalk, I don't have a driveway, I just keep the filter setup in my garage and the drums in my yard.
to be totally honest as long as i'm not changing a filter along side the road every month then its actually not an issue to me. I'm more concerned about the adaquecy of my filtering.
i was kinda concerned about my fuel pump workin harder and harder.... I wonder if there are low pressure pumps available (for an idi engine) that can withstand the extra resistance that may be present.
by the way, everyone is talkin about their filter setups... the filter heads i bought were from dieselstore.com. they are new from stanadyne, only cost is 32$ per head. the filters are around 16$ each with many micron options ranging from 150 to 2 micron. they also have many different options for fuel ports.
THere are also alot of extra things you can add to these, like "time to change filter" notifications--that could also help with the more strain on the fuel pump issue. water in fuel. manual and automatic air purge. plastic see thru bottom to see if there is water in fuel.
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
I always filter before dumping into my truck. Have not had any problems so far. I guess you could let your added filters catch everything but I fell better putting WMO in my truck that has already been filtered to 2 micron. I agree with everything I've read, FILTER FILTER FILTER. As far as power loss, I read somewhere (can't remember where right now) motor oil has a higher BTU rating than diesel but the flash point is higher. Starting on 75% WMO, especially in cold weather, is harder but once running it runs just as good or better as compared to straight diesel.
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1994 F350 IDI with factory Turbo, crew cab long bed with dual tanks
i don't have anywhere to setup a filtering system.
would i be able to just rely on these filters to do the trick or is not prefiltering a major NO NO?
also, i understand running wmo seems to let the truck run a little smoother, (or atleast it did on the 4 gallons i ran... would you credit this to a loss of power? that the wmo doesn't explode as intense?
I have ran WMO unfiltered in my old shuttle bus. I didn't have any problems, but I have to knock on wood.
Ran smoother? Yeah, I noticed that too. Honestly, I believe that it comes from the fact that WMO has more Btu's than diesel.
I currently filter with filter bags (a five micron on top, then a one micron on the bottom). It's simple gravity feed. I use two sections of 4" PVC pipe, each with a junction on one end that helps hold the bag. I dump in, then let gravity draw it down and through into a 5 gallon plastic fuel container. I store the PVC pieces in a Rubbermaid tote, and I can take that along with me if I travel.
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Super Dave
2006 E350 6.0PSD
2003 Excursion Limited 4WD 7.3PSD - Sold
1996 E350 Super Duty bus 7.3PSD - Sold
Howdy, Doublenaught spy here, i've run a blend of 50/50 aw32 hyd and diesel in an older powerstroke filtered to 5 micron for about 4 passes in a high beta filter, lost two injectors recently, the motor is high time and maybe they were ready to go. Replaced just those two and am running again but am starting to see abit of smoke at an idle and getting a bit nervous, I know i should have been smart enuf to change all injectors while i had her down but I'm cheap and i thought i could get away with it. I know the supply of the oil is fine , we generate it here, but do i need to back off the ratio or is the consensus that i am just a tight wad that should have changed them all? yer thoughts wold be appreciated p.s. great forum and i hate arabs
i did a test burn using Teresso 32 that i got from ... well, i started with a 50/50 mix, then went up to 75/25. no heater, no conversion. the truck got quieter - and no change in mileage. the ambiant temp at the time was about +4C at night, with a high of 12C. i hate to mention the motor, but it is a 12V 5.9 cummins. i have another 300+ Liters in my tote tank, and was planning on topping it up this spring for use in my truck and newly aquired bus, but now i may look at going the WMO/ATF route now. i will just add what i get to my already filtered 32. no heater, and better mileage. it all sounds good to me. i will be checking with a buddy of mine who owns a transmission shop today and see if i can get some of his waste product. he owes me since i gave him $2500 in the fall for a new tranny in my dodge. BTW, the blend worked great, and the motor has 400,000KM.
i know i am on in a ford group, but i only brand bash with my buddies. i dont intend to offend anyone here....yet
Last edited by millertyme; 04-03-2009 at 03:58 AM.
I would not use more than 10% AW32 and then you should throw in three ounces of acetone and three ounces of xylene for every 10 gallons of mixed fuel. The acetone helps the mix burn more completely (less smoke) and the xylene (zylene) helps to break down the carbon and hydrogen (i.e., hydrocarbons) components of the mineral oil (think plastic stuff).
Could or should acetone and or xylene be added to used ATF to cut down on smoke? I have a great supply but it smokes at idle and I am sure most is probably synthetic these days.
mike
I've been running wmo in small amounts, wvo in small amounts, watf in small amounts and a bit of kerosene in small amounts. Basically I use it when I get enough to dump into the tank. I would like to get my filtering down to 1 micron but I can live with 2 since that's what my trucks filter is (I believe it's 2 microns).
My buddy has been using watf for a long long time now. Dare I say several years now? He will mix up to 50/50 with diesel. He has a shop with unlimited amounts of wmo and watf. He stores what will be used in his truck in 35 and 55 gallon drums. He uses air pressure from the shop to pressurize the pre-filtered tank. The watf is pushed through the filters into the clean storage tank. From there he adds 15 to 20 gallons of the watf to his truck when it's almost empty. Then drives around the corner to top up with diesel. He runs the same mix all year round. No problems yet and we live in Michigan. His filter setup is basically any inline fuel filters he comes across in the shop and uses them until they are plugged or close to being plugged.
I have tried running a small amount (10%) mixed with bio or diesel. The truck and my VW ran fine on it but MAN! What a cloud of smoke. It got to be embarrasing just sitting there ideling with smoke pouring out the pipe. My dad was picking this up from the recycling center, I let it settle for a few days and cycled it through a .5 micron filter. Works good but just smokes too much. Any ideas as to what may be happening. Oil still looks black after filtering. I have run small amounts of two cylcle mixed in with no smoke.
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