I get nice used WVO from a local store. Its clean and bright with a slight white haze. Best way I found for preparing it is to First let the WVO sit still for a week- heavy contaminants sink. Than Transfer the top cleaner stuff to another container. Next I add anywhere from 20-40% Kero and allow to sit for a week or so. This does 2 things: one it thins the oil significantly and prevents thick sludgyy WVO even in cold weather and 2 Kero seems to make all the non oil contaminants sink to the bottand forming a layer of whitish brown sludge leaving only clean and clear WVO on top. Also adding Kero creates some kind of an emulsifing effect that prevents the formation of fatty solids. In my tests diesel mix did not do as well for cleaning up the WVO, not sure why.
That is correct for a number of reasons. Beside the fact most chains like Jiffy Lube and the like are selling the oil under contract because of the demand for the recovered product is the federal environmental cradle to grave regulations for large quantity generators. There are provisions under RECRA Managing Used Oil | Wastes | US EPA for what is know as a "conditionally exempt small quantity generator" or CESQG that appears on documentation for the products recovered from these generators. The regulations are very clear about chain of custody for the recovered products regardless of generator however the CESQG regs are pretty loose compared to large generators such as Jiffy Lube.
What does this all mean as far as using RMO (recovered motor oil, never "waste")? You probably can find some supply from CESQG sources but be aware, federal and state regulations are very real and if someone from an agency conected to the recovered product monitoring starts poking around it could get ugly. The main problem is the end use, you would not be a recognized end user registered with the EPA and the supply source is not a registered fuel generator, then you may run in to the road tax problem. For those of you making process rigs to clean up you oil to use it for fuel, be aware the sludge and water are very real "waste streams", choose your proper disposal methods and stick to the regulations, they don't joke around about this stuff.
Bottom line, quietly find some small generators, make a deal with them and keep it to yourself.
Gotta agree good advice.
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97 dodge 2500 4x4 cc lb 12V auto 3.54 pillar gauges 215 nozzels
31'TT at 8000 lbs
94 explorer
Ugly question, but what exactly is the proper disposal method for the sludge and water?
Maybe I just take it back to the tank at Autozone ... but that doesn't seem right.
I'm not very concerned with running afoul of the law -- I just really want to do the right thing and taking it to the local liquid/hazmat facility doesn't really give me the best feeling that it would be disposed of properly. Even if it was, you have to label it and declare what it is ... and those questions might better be avoided.
-steve
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S.A McChesney
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'72 BMW 2002tii Fprod Race Car --- '82 Bitter SC 5-spd
'01 Volvo V70 T5 5spd, The Official SCCA Volvo Historic Racing Series Pace Car
'95 EB 351 Bronco --- '69 Lotus Europa --- '87 Merkur XR4ti --- '85 Bitter SC 3.9</font> '02 F350 Lariat CC Dually Longbed PSD 4x4 6spd
Tekonsha Prodigy -- Icom 2100H -- Retrax -- B&W Turnover 5er Kingpin -- Letter to Santa "US Gear" . . .
32' invert 5er Britton/Transport Sys 12K GVWR Toybox,Honda 3kw Gen,Fridge,Micro,5kw Inverter,ColemanPolarCub
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i seem to lose power when i run high blends of wmo, so im trying to figure out some sort of heater for the system. i figured that if i can get it up to about 100 degrees or so, i should not have any power loss what so ever but i just cant figure out what to use. i was thinking about using a heating element from a hot water tank, put that all inside a cylinder pipe then run the fuel through that, and run the element off of an inverter... not sure how efficient that would be but i guess it would just depend on how big the pipe was with the heating element in it?
but then, i thought about using my coolant as an alternative too...basically doing the same thing except taking 10 feet of fuel line and fitting it into a pipe about 18 inches long and have the coolant run through that....
any ideas?
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2000 f350 crew cab short bed 2wd. Glowshift guages, magnaflow stainless exhaust, DP Tuner. paid 3,000 for the 245k miles it had. up to 260000......SOLD
1999 f250 ex cab short bed 4x4 K&N air filter DP Tuner (stock, 80 economy, 120 race, 140 aggressive, lope idle) 4in exhaust airbags autometer gauges built tranny 305k miles! -SOLD
1999 f250 ex cab short bed 4x4 350springs 170k built trans DP Tuner (stock, 60 tow, 80 econo, 140 aggressive) 4in banks exhuast glow shift guages 8ft boss plow
2003 f250 crew cab lariat 4x4 240k miles, 9'2'' BOSS V plow
2002 f250 crew cab lariat 4x4 355k miles, 8'2'' BOSS V plow
My fuel filter light comes on on cold mornings with heavy blends if I floor it on a nearby hill. I haven't had any trouble on the expressway. My plan is to run a gutted stock filter and a large semi-truck sized Baldwin filter right after the pump. I'm figuring with 4-5 times the filter area the pump will have an easier time pushing the blend through and the filter should last longer. By retaining a gutted filter canister in the stock location my water in fuel and filter lights will remain functional. I also bought an in cab fuel pressure gauge but haven't hooked it up yet.
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1986 F350 Crew Cab 2wd SRW. 1991 7.3 IDI, T-19 4spd Sterling 10.25 3.55, 12" HD clutch. A Banks waste gated turbo. 5" cut down Peterbilt stack. Midwest rebuilt IP turned up. AC Delco 6.5 GM 12V GP's, working great. Running W85 high performance zero-gel diesel! D60 front conversion, 4wd conversion, dually conversion, and steel flatbed conversion now underway. Man those frame rivets are a pain!
1966 Porsche 911. 1983 911 SC engine with modified Zenith carbs, headers, 911S brakes, custom fuel rails, MSD 6al box with timing computer, 1974 IROC body kit. 1850lbs, 200rwhp, total blast to drive.
Pre-heat is a good idea regardless of the application, the heat helps the atomization at the pintle discharge point. What is used for the fuel systems designed to use #5 (used oil based) fuel have a pre-heater that brings the bulk supply tank fuel temp up to around 100 degrees (typically through a process heat exchanger), then at the fuel metering valve there is a "trim" heater that most of the time is set at about 180 degrees.
Perhaps you could fashion a pre-heater using your cooling system and a trim heater may require purchase of some type of dc to ac power converter and a small commercially available trim heater.
I just made a 140 mile trip on the 15.6k mod. I never went over 55 mph and used cruise so I could be sure of the speed. I traveled through 3 small towns of 35, 45 mph so I would guess that 95 % at 55 mph. Got 20 mpg on the trip, 15.6k mod definately seat of the pants difference. Well worth the $6 dollars for the resistors. Also I am running 80 % wmo to 20 % diesel. My truck in stock except for the 15.6k mod and removed cat and muffler. 1997 F-350 XLT AUTO PSD 4X4. Todays temp is 73 degrees, but when I left it was 41 degrees.(using c00nhunerjoe's mod), THANKS
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ARMSTRONGFORDTRUCKS
1975 F-250, XLT, 4X4, 460 BORED 40 OVER, STRAIGHT UP TIMING, EDELBROCK INTAKE AND CARB, AUTOMATIC, FACTORY AIR, CRUISE.
Okay, maybe this question was already answered somewhere, but I've recently removed my CDR and plumped the "fine oil mist" from the crankcase to a oil capture canister to AVOID burning oil in the engine.
Have read that when the engine "accidently" burns oil via the CDR, the oil burns hotter and can result in the cylinder sleeve & head in the rear two cylinders expanding more resulting in gasket leaks. Well, after reading this I checked my newly purchase 1987 6.9 with 43K miles and sure enough, the CDR diaphram was gone, I was burning all the crankcase oil mist, and the last two cylinders were leaking oil at the head and valve cover gaskets. Coincidence?
So, you can see that my question is: HOW can burning oil "accidently" via a bad CDR cause damage, yet burning it via the fuel system be okay? Is it because the injectors allow the oil to burn more completely with more atomization that a CDR leak would? Thanks for any/all answers!
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1987 E-350 6.9L N/A
C-6 w/Dana 70 3.54
43K original miles & NO mods
Las Vegas, NV
When you have a bad CDR the oil doesn't spread evenly, it tends to pool in the two back cylinders when you shut the motor off.
That's what causes the damage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheDogHouse
Hey All,
.......
So, you can see that my question is: HOW can burning oil "accidently" via a bad CDR cause damage, yet burning it via the fuel system be okay? Is it because the injectors allow the oil to burn more completely with more atomization that a CDR leak would? Thanks for any/all answers!
Exactly. The injector pump supplies and even amount a fuel at just the right time to each cylinder. Oil pooling in the manifold and running into the two rear cylinders causes overfueling and unevenness in those cylinders.
BTW, your "fine oil mist" was it at all smokey? I tried removing my CDR and using a road draft tube but it just seems to smoke too much. I cleaned the CDR and put it back on and all is fine now. Were you able to catch the mist so no fumes/smoke was visible?
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1986 F350 Crew Cab 2wd SRW. 1991 7.3 IDI, T-19 4spd Sterling 10.25 3.55, 12" HD clutch. A Banks waste gated turbo. 5" cut down Peterbilt stack. Midwest rebuilt IP turned up. AC Delco 6.5 GM 12V GP's, working great. Running W85 high performance zero-gel diesel! D60 front conversion, 4wd conversion, dually conversion, and steel flatbed conversion now underway. Man those frame rivets are a pain!
1966 Porsche 911. 1983 911 SC engine with modified Zenith carbs, headers, 911S brakes, custom fuel rails, MSD 6al box with timing computer, 1974 IROC body kit. 1850lbs, 200rwhp, total blast to drive.
Tried to keep it from smoking, but to no avail. Mounted the road draft tube with a large aluminum soda can on the end filled with steel wool. Keeps it down a little, but still have smoke at stop lights, etc. Also, the can drips oil whenever I stop overnight. About a 3-5 inch diameter in the morning. Not too cool in front of the house, eh?
Still, since it's an RV application, I don't mind the smoke, as I'll be mostly on the highways. On the other hand, if it doesn't really help with anything, what's the point? I mean, if you can burn WMO all day and not harm the engine, why worry about a little getting through the CDR? Especially if I'm going to convert to burning WMO as a primary fuel! Talk about silly to have a road draft tube at THAT point, lol. Let me know what you think.
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1987 E-350 6.9L N/A
C-6 w/Dana 70 3.54
43K original miles & NO mods
Las Vegas, NV
Anybody ever run a centrifuge directly on their rig? Could have a WMO collection tank that would feed to the centrifuge and then on to the WMO fuel tank that would supply the engine. Could potentially eliminate quite a few filters (keep one <5 micron just in case) and TIME.
Of course, there would be issues with running the centrifuge while driving, so you would probably fill the collection tank and run the centrifuge to filter the WMO into the fuel tank BEFORE driving off. You could then also refill the collection tank for filtration when you need the fuel down the road. Just a thought, let me know what you think!
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1987 E-350 6.9L N/A
C-6 w/Dana 70 3.54
43K original miles & NO mods
Las Vegas, NV
I've been building up to a system like that for the last year. (Just picked up two electric fuel pumps today! )
I'm living out of my van so I don't have anywhere to let the oil sit until the water falls out.
So a centrifuge is the only option.
I'll be siphoning from a 30 gallon barrel (free from a car wash) through a fuel line heater (got the wire, looking for the fiber glass sleeving), into a home made centrifuge (converted acme juicer), through a 5 micron filter bag to a bucket. Then use my transfer pump to get it into the WO tank.
I'll have to be stationary while doing the pre-filtering. The acme/centrifuge has to hang while working to keep it stable.
If you go with a pressure style of centrifuge, you could do it on the fly, But I'd still want the filter bag.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheDogHouse
Anybody ever run a centrifuge directly on their rig? Could have a WMO collection tank ........
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