well ran my first bit of wmo yesterday. only dropped about two gallons in the tank rest was full of diesel. i have a clear line coming out of my IP for my return so i can see the fuel (to see if i have air in the lines). Just before the fuel turned black the engine started running so much smoother! it was crazy. never thought it would actually run nicer on wmo.
anyways, i'm lookin for hard facts as to what is harmful with running wmo through an idi. i understand there is prolly small metal shavings that may be in the oil, is there anything else? I would think having the oil running through the IP would actually help it lubricate it, as well as the mechanical injectors. Like i said, just lookin for facts, so if anyone knows the facts please share!!
Thanks all!!
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
I`ll let you know in a few months.I am introducing it slowly in addition to my veggie blend. So far so good...filtering should be the key to success, Rob
__________________ 1988 F-250 7.3 IDI4wd non turbo c6 auto crew cab. w/ 138,000
Blended DSE fuel in rear tank.Started 2-25-08 @ 132000 miles.Changed O-rings,rubber fuel lines,cleaned injectors,changed fuel and air filter.Changed Wiper motor 4-4-08.Cleaned injectors again 10-1-08 136000 miles.11-4-08-Changed all fuel line clamps and glow plugs(Wellman) 1988 F-250 7.3 IDI 2wd non turbo c6 auto crew cab w/ 92,000 miles.
I run some in my veggy and some in my diesel tank. I filter it through a 1 micron filter sock. Make sure that whatever container you put it in is free of water and wasnt an old coolant jug. I have been runnin veggy and wmo for about 30,000 miles with no problems. The only draw back I see is when runnin diesel and wmo mix it smokes pretty good under heavy load. It helps thin out diesel in winter months. Any other questions let me know.
Filtering and dewatering are the 2 most important things to me. I have a portable setup with a 30-gal drum, my pump, and my filter array on it. I use the pump to suck my waste oil out of the top of a storage drum, being sure to pull right off the top so any water that might be in the drum is not getting drawn in. Then I mix my diesel into the 30-gal drum, stir it up, then push it through the filters and into the truck or my portable containers for long trips. I am filtering to 1 micron in my second stage filter. Before I bought those filters, I was using 2 micron filters for my final and I found some very fine sediment in the bottom of my portable containers, i'm assuming it was the particles that are smaller than 1 micron.
I did a little test with a water bottle where I marked a line on the side of the bottle and drank the water down exactly to that point, a little less than half, then poured roughly the same amount of waste oil in on top of it and capped it. I shook it vigorously and set it on my bench. A few days later it had completely separated. The water had taken on a light brown tinge, and there was a thin (~1/8") layer of sludge on top of the water, and then above that was black oil. The sludge layer was right at the original water line.
As far as performance, mine seems to smoke at idle, but I don't notice it when i'm running down the road. I think it might smoke light blue but I just can't see it through the mirror. Also, I try to drive with a heavy foot when on oil to keep the cylinder and exhaust temps up to avoid coking of the injectors. I also always purge to straight diesel before shutdown.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Wellman G088 glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
(this might be a stupid question) but can you put 2 micron filters in the fuel lines?
reefblue--i see your located in pa. do you have any problems with such a high percentage of wmo to diesel in the cooling fall and winter weather?
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
Regarding the 2 micron filters in the fuel lines (I'm assuming you mean on the truck): I put a pressure gauge on the line going to my filter series, and with the 1 micron filter and the fuel pre-blended 2:1, the filter exerts about 15 psi resistance. Seeing as how the stock lift pump puts out 4-6 psi, I think it might be risky to put a super fine filter on the truck, as the pump might not be able to force the fuel through it.
I am using a hydraulic pump and an electric motor with a belt/pulley arrangement on my filtering cart, so pressure isn't a problem there. The diaphragm/spring pump isn't positive though.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Wellman G088 glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
is that preblend 2:1 diesel:wmo or other way around?
I thought about that added resistance it has... i have an electric lift pump on mine. if i adjust something i think i can get it up to 12 psi, i have to recheck the lil manual that came with it. its the one in my sig
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
(this might be a stupid question) but can you put 2 micron filters in the fuel lines?
reefblue--i see your located in pa. do you have any problems with such a high percentage of wmo to diesel in the cooling fall and winter weather?
Someone already covered the inline filter.
If you're relying on an inline filter to be your primary filter, you're asking for a clogged filter.
I get the chugs/romps at pretty high temperatures. I got in today and it was 60 degrees and I had the chugs. A small tap on the gas pedal and it clears right up.
Probably going to have to do 50/50 in the winter if I don't abandon it altogether as it gets closer to freezing or zero. I would think a block heater won't work since it doesn't warm the fuel tank itself.
If you're relying on an inline filter to be your primary filter, you're asking for a clogged filter.
I get the chugs/romps at pretty high temperatures. I got in today and it was 60 degrees and I had the chugs. A small tap on the gas pedal and it clears right up.
Probably going to have to do 50/50 in the winter if I don't abandon it altogether as it gets closer to freezing or zero. I would think a block heater won't work since it doesn't warm the fuel tank itself.
Mine did that two, it would chug untill I would tap the throttle. I had an IDM failure code on mine, so I grabed a 12Ov IDM off a superduty at work, and then did the IDM mod by swapping out resisters to make it a 140v unit. and since have not has a single rock or chug. Fires up faster than normal and never misses a lick. Also it seems to have better throtle response and maybe a little more power.
Yours may not respond quite as good if you already have a 120v IDM, (mine was a 100v and went to 140v) but I would think it would at least get rid of the chugging. And I am running 80/20 on my mix, so its fairly heavy.
Justin
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'96 F250 Crew Cab Short Bus, E40d, 4.10, D60, Hard Knox RSK, SD Springs front and rear, Hard Knox Winch Bumper, Warn 10k winch, 38 gallon rear tank, 305s on stock Alcoas IDM mod
Over 40k on WMO at blends upto 90% with only normal wear noticed over that period. Filter well stay blow 70% summer 50% winter in the IDI as the glow plugs are nt up to the job at higher ratios.
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97 dodge 2500 4x4 cc lb 12V auto 3.54 pillar gauges 215 nozzels
31'TT at 8000 lbs
94 explorer
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