My buddies thought I should share some info on the system I came up with for my F250.
After a lot of reading on the forums and talking with friends I came up with a design. My goals were to get the needed heat, yet have as clean an install as possible for a reasonable price.
I built my system around the Raptor 100 fuel pump. It seems to offer a great warranty, performance and price. I also like that it has the pressure regulator built right in. The pump came with a high end set of fittings, pushlock hose, etc. I had a question, and the company was quick with a follow up call from a tech. (They included so much stuff that I didn't even use most of it.)
For my flat plate heater I went with an Ebay unit for $85. I thought this was a great deal, but it came with 3/4" male pipe outlets, these large fittings created a problem getting them down to the sizes I needed. It's a bit ugly, and has half a zillion bucks in fittings to make it work. (Please get something better on your installs!)
I'm not a big fan of hose barbs and hose clamps, so I used JIC fittings when possible. It costs a bit more, but they make life a lot easier! Goodyear brand pushlock hose is used throughout (1/4" and 1/2")
My Flat Plate heater (FPHE) is a 30 plate unit. I would have preferred to have it mounted closer to the motor, but I did not see a good place for it up in the engine bay. So it is mounted down on the frame with the fuel pump. I also mounted my purge valve and filters there. The fuel line from the FPHE will be paired with coolant lines and insulated. (This fuel line is 1/4" to help speed the transfer time of the fuel. No point in feeding a 1/2" fuel line and letting the oil get cold while in transit. Also makes for a cleaner install.)
I also will be using a 1/4" purge line as I hope to have some restriction in that line to help maintain better diesel fuel pressure in the head when purging. I'm fine it is takes a bit longer to purge.
Fuel to the heads is provided to the front ports, and is "T" together at the rear ports, then that feeds to my purge solenoid.
I'll have to make up a drawing of the layout of the system.
I'm still finishing the install, but the hard work is done, and she is currently running on diesel again. I still need to run my vegi and water lines, but that is easy compared to getting to those head ports and making the brackets, etc. The trick will be running the water lines as clean as possible. The water pump one should be easy, but the HOT side will be a bit tougher to get clean.
Also need to run the electrical. I have not looked into where I can tap into power and the such yet. Should have it running Vegi this weekend.
I drew up a simple schematic for review. I tried to keep it as simple as possible. I'll be adding a pressure gauge and temp switch a bit later, they will go between the check valves.
(The thicker lines are 1/2", and the thinner lines are 1/4")
This looks like a greeat design. Sure would like to be on your mailing list as you get the drawing updated.
Although I have leaning to the vegistroke, I like to see all the systems just in case I decide to go a DIY way. I wish vegistroke had a drawing like this so I could understand it better.
This is based off the original Vegistroke concept, but he does things a bit differently.
Originally I thought the Vegistroke was nice, but overpriced. After doing mine, I think his price is rather reasonable. The headache of chasing all of this info down, and sourcing all of the little bits and pieces.. uggh! And I still have a lot of chasing to do.
If you do not like projects, then by all means get the Vegistroke!
I love projects but I agree if you price high quality components vegistroke seems to be inline.
Before I decide I want some sort of plan. The system you put on a truck is only part of it. Preparation of the oil is extremely important and requires expensive pumps and filters.
Thanks for the info. I hope I have something like this to share someday.
Looks good. My only advice is to put your FPHE before the pump and filter. I had to do that to get the fuel to pump through the filter. But I am using PHO so you might not have that problem.
As for designing your own system, I think it's great. I did my own and saved a ton of money (spent less than $1000) and when it's done it's a great feeling knowing that your design is allowing you to drive past the outrageous diesel prices.
This is based off the original Vegistroke concept, but he does things a bit differently.
Originally I thought the Vegistroke was nice, but overpriced. After doing mine, I think his price is rather reasonable. The headache of chasing all of this info down, and sourcing all of the little bits and pieces.. uggh! And I still have a lot of chasing to do.
If you do not like projects, then by all means get the Vegistroke!
-Wayne
I've been trying for a year to come up with the parts to build my own system, and the trial and error part just pushed me to a vegistroke, I ordered it a couple of days ago and they are 4 to 6 weeks out. I'm getting 11 mpg around town, and spending around $300 a week on fuel. 3 to 4 months and I'll be money ahead, if all goes well I may get another truck or Xcar for my wife too.
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2002 F350 Red PSD Auto SC/LB SRW 4x4 Tymar Intake 4"Dual Exhaust DI 6 position twisty knob BTS 4R100 Vegistroke V3
one area where you look deficient is heat before the filter. You want 120F+ before the filter. If you ran TIH from the tank you would be OK, otherwise you should have a heatexchanger directlybefore the pump/filter
The filter is heated, but was not when I took those pics. Also, this is a dead head fuel flow, so the WVO will spend a lot of time in that filter getting heated.
My oil right now is from a friend, and is not PHO. Good Chinese restaurant stuff.
I'm not sure if I stated it before, but I'm rushing to put this together as I'm heading out of town later this week on a 2k mile trip. So I am currently running a 90 gallon tank in the bed with no additional heat in the tank. (Summer time out West should keep it rather warm during the days.) Final plans will be to have all fuel storage under the bed. I'll bend up my own tank and will have heat in the final tanks. Will hold onto the 90 gallon tank for long trips though.
All plumbing is done except for a fuel pressure gauge. No leaks at all, you got to love the JIC fittings. Just need to do some wiring and I should be in business. Need to locate a hot "ignition" wire under the dash for the switch for the pump, this will fire a relay that kicks on the veggie pump. Also a purge switch. That will be it for this trip, but later plans are for a fully automatic system. I'm not sure if I'll use the typical time delay relays, or go for a full on digital solution.
All wired up and ready for a test. Thought I'd include some pics of under the hood with the coolant lines added and a CHEAP oil pressure gage installed of initial setup. (It will be replaced by a better electrical unit in the cab after this trip.)
Interesting is that the fuel pressure is about 5o PSI before cranking the engine, then it spikes to over 100 PSI while cranking and drops to 60 when running. This is pre-check valves, this is the pressure the injectors actually see.
Just a single switch on the dash at this point to turn the veggie pump on and off. Automated controls and purge control will come later. Switch glows red when turned on. When driving down the highway the steering wheel will block my view of the switch as I dislike switches that are always in my night vision. (Very easy spot to mount small switches onto this dash.)
What is the black bracket on the passenger side bolts of your alternator. Looks good by the way. How did you run your fuel lines???
That bracket holds the manifold that the fuel lines, pressure gage and check valves are connected to. Pretty much the heart of the system.
The veggie lines run up the frame, up the firewall and in behind the alternator to a check valve on the manifold. From the manifold it goes into the heads.
Happy to report that the Raptor 100 is happy to feed Veggie into the Powerstroke at 70 PSI. Wasn't 100% sure as I never did find anyone that had used this pump on a Ford. Once the pump was purged, it was happy as a clam. Quiet too!
System is working great. Will be taking it on a 2000 mile loop in a couple of days, and towing a Porsche on a trailer on the return leg.
Back from the trip, and things went very well. Only issue I had was that the tank I'm using was not heated in any way as it was not the final tank I plan to use, it was just a quick and easy solution that fit the tight time table.
Anyhow, in the colder weather up in Oregon, the Raptor did not like sucking the cold oil and popped a 25 amp fuse. Once tank temps were back up all was fine. I used 90 gallons of veggie oil and had no other issues on the trip.
I'll get some more time on the setup and keep you updated on the parts and pieces.
The CHEAP oil pressure gauge has not done well with the high pressure spikes it sees during starting. The gauge is no longer accurate, but you can see pressure differences on it. It will be getting replaced with a quality gauge soon.
Does anyone know how high these fuel pressure spikes are on startup?
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