on a slightly side note... what are people using for hose in hose adapters??? I know frybrid ha some pretty cool looking ones, can they be ordered individually? I live in the northeast and do most of my miles in the winter, so as much heating as possible is important to me.
Fuel spikes! Oh yeah, that has created alot of debate and concern. Also prolly blown up several Jegs/Summit (25psi) alum fuel lines.
In a nutshell, its exactly what FN74 described. Primary reason: Split shot injectors. The 'pause' in the split shot event returns some extra fuel pressure to the rails. Mostly at start-up, but also at other times during driving - ie. light throttle, let off. The BUZZING fuel press gauge is what drove me nuts...
After switching to single-shots, I barely see this anymore. Still a 'spike' at start-up, but not pegging my gauge so hard the needle got dented. I have talked to a guy who measured 500psi during spikes - I think he had injector issues though.
Before ya decide to DIY, try HARD to make a list of all the plumbing parts you'll need. I swear I have as much in that as the REST of my system - very, very easy to under-estimate here. If you consider your time and the quality of components at all - the V3 is a deal.
To the OP: I would be concerned about 1/4" fuel lines. I know that is stock lines from filter to heads - but there are 2 of'em and they are like 18" long. (fuel pressure at the manifold should fall off under heavy load if fuel line could not supply the volume) Remember, double the diameter is 4 times the surface area...
Also, what about all that cool VO from your FPHE to the engine at switch-over? I would consider HIH for that section using the hottest coolant.
For those still designing, especially if deadheaded, a 16 plate is PLENTY to get the flow and volume(s) we are dealing with up to temp. (and MUCH easier to locate under hood!)
__________________
Choose wisely. Or PLEASE post pics of the carnage!!!
2001 F-350, DRW, 4x4, XLT Crew Cab, flat bed, 7.3, 6 spd, Dipricol Optix gauges on pillar - EGT, Boost, Fuel Press., HPO Press. - No Muffler, AIH delete, SB Con OFE, AC code injctrs, GTP 38R. Vegistroke-inspired WVO system w/150,000 trouble-free miles! BTS tunes, 203 t-stat w/billet housing, Evans coolant, coolant filter, boost relief valve, Dieselsite IC boots, Hella headlight harness, '07 grill/lites and big, bad front bumper!
2000 Excursion 4x4 Limited - BTS trans and tunes, AIS, Frybrid/V3 SVO conversion with over 100k VO miles so far!
I like it and it looks similar to how I plan to run mine. I am curious as to why you chose to run your coolant lines in such a fashion? I'd assume pull and return coolant from just one side (I'd do heater-core return side for winter time cab consideration). That and the collant heat drop across the heater core isn't too much.
__________________
'00 F250 7.3L, 4x4, 6-spd, SCT X3, ATTA 90 gallon tank/toolbox, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 kit. WVO kit in the making...now if I could just finish getting the CANbus code written for that HE431VE.
'96 Impreza "WRX" coupe time attack car
Last edited by Homemade WRX; 06-29-2008 at 12:55 PM.
Good info.. The pushlock hose I'm using (and others have used) is only rated to about 300 PSI as I recall. So this is my big concern with the fuel pressure spikes.
The 1/4" fuel lines I'm using actually flow better then the stock setup since I'm not feeding through the stock check valves. The stock check valves have a screen and a 1/8" or so passage. I should be fine. Besides, I try and stay out of the throttle when I'm running on diesel.
All that cool oil from the FPHE at switch over? Well, I actually have very little cool oil. I think I have about 2 feet of 1/4" hose that is not heated, and I think the head is able to heat that up just fine before it sees an injector. I do not recommend anyone use a lot of throttle when they first switch over to Veggie as every kit I have seen is going to have some "cold" oil going in at switch over. The oil in the FPHE is up to temp when pumping starts.
FPHE size - well, unfortunately the 16 plate will not save you much room. The real issue with mine is the fitting size, they are 3/4".. Way too big! The problem with any FPHE install is all of the hoses going to the darn thing. The hoses are what makes the real packaging issue. That is why I'm happy with mounting mine down on the frame where I have lots of space. The distance up to the motor is pretty short, and easy enough to heat.
-Wayne
Quote:
Originally Posted by airfooter
Fuel spikes! Oh yeah, that has created alot of debate and concern. Also prolly blown up several Jegs/Summit (25psi) alum fuel lines.
In a nutshell, its exactly what FN74 described. Primary reason: Split shot injectors. The 'pause' in the split shot event returns some extra fuel pressure to the rails. Mostly at start-up, but also at other times during driving - ie. light throttle, let off. The BUZZING fuel press gauge is what drove me nuts...
After switching to single-shots, I barely see this anymore. Still a 'spike' at start-up, but not pegging my gauge so hard the needle got dented. I have talked to a guy who measured 500psi during spikes - I think he had injector issues though.
Before ya decide to DIY, try HARD to make a list of all the plumbing parts you'll need. I swear I have as much in that as the REST of my system - very, very easy to under-estimate here. If you consider your time and the quality of components at all - the V3 is a deal.
To the OP: I would be concerned about 1/4" fuel lines. I know that is stock lines from filter to heads - but there are 2 of'em and they are like 18" long. (fuel pressure at the manifold should fall off under heavy load if fuel line could not supply the volume) Remember, double the diameter is 4 times the surface area...
Also, what about all that cool VO from your FPHE to the engine at switch-over? I would consider HIH for that section using the hottest coolant.
For those still designing, especially if deadheaded, a 16 plate is PLENTY to get the flow and volume(s) we are dealing with up to temp. (and MUCH easier to locate under hood!)
I like it and it looks similar to how I plan to run mine. I am curious as to why you chose to run your coolant lines in such a fashion? I'd assume pull and return coolant from just one side (I'd do heater-core return side for winter time cab consideration). That and the collant heat drop across the heater core isn't too much.
Well, that would be a bad idea. Most vehicles use a valve on one of the heater core lines to control the amount of heat going into the cab. So you may get no flow at all if you went with your method. I'm not sure that Ford has this valve on all of the Powerstrokes, seems they just divert air around the core on some models..?
Anyhow, I get good heat to the oil (my first concern) and plenty of heat inside the cab also.
fair enough!
as far as I know, the powerstrokes run the water through the core just the same. Figured it would have just made plumbing all the more simple. Oh well, now I know.
then again, how cold does it get in OC california
Thanks,
Micah
__________________
'00 F250 7.3L, 4x4, 6-spd, SCT X3, ATTA 90 gallon tank/toolbox, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 kit. WVO kit in the making...now if I could just finish getting the CANbus code written for that HE431VE.
I'm just poking fun. I might be moving out to Santa Clarita myself, so the hot winters I'm sure makes it all the easier for WVO!
__________________
'00 F250 7.3L, 4x4, 6-spd, SCT X3, ATTA 90 gallon tank/toolbox, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 kit. WVO kit in the making...now if I could just finish getting the CANbus code written for that HE431VE.
I have heard it argued that the 7.3 PSD is the biggest and baddest heat exchanger ever created. Meaning that by virtue of the galleries being buried inside of the engine that grease or diesel, once into the gallery, is heated to engine temp, Period.
Further, we are only trying to ensure that grease is hot enough to pass thru the pumps, filters, and lines.
I have heard it argued that the 7.3 PSD is the biggest and baddest heat exchanger ever created. Meaning that by virtue of the galleries being buried inside of the engine that grease or diesel, once into the gallery, is heated to engine temp, Period.
Further, we are only trying to ensure that grease is hot enough to pass thru the pumps, filters, and lines.
I buy it.
Still best to have a good bit of heat in the oil before it goes into the heads.
As for not having any heat before my pump, I can say this is a real issue! I was driving down to San Diego on a warm day, and all was fine, but the return trip that night the oil in the tank had cooled enough to pop a fuse on the veggie pump. I was surprised to see that since it was still pretty warm down here in So Cal. I really need to get my real tank with heat built!
can anyone tell me if i can use vegetable shortening as well as oil because i am not finding very much oil. 94 FSD Powerstroke 5 speed car hauler
Thanks
What exactly are you guys using for hose? I'm looking at the discount hydraulic site and I see the general purpose pushlock hose, but is says "water not to exceed 150*" Are you guys just running with it anyway? or is there a higher temp rated pushlock out there? It does say max temp is 212, but I guess only 150 for water. Looking for some input here as I'm putting together my final shopping list of everything I'm gonna need, thanks!!!
What exactly are you guys using for hose? I'm looking at the discount hydraulic site and I see the general purpose pushlock hose, but is says "water not to exceed 150*" Are you guys just running with it anyway? or is there a higher temp rated pushlock out there? It does say max temp is 212, but I guess only 150 for water. Looking for some input here as I'm putting together my final shopping list of everything I'm gonna need, thanks!!!
They were out of stock when I ordered, so ended up sourcing mine locally using Goodyear pushlock hose. Not sure of all the specs, but they were aware of what I was using it for and suggested this was the best product for the application. I told them temps and pressures the hose would see.
It was suggested that some of the cheap hose on the market would not survive long with the veggie oil going through it. Not sure I have heard of many hose failures though...?
Don't even consider 30R7 for pressure and expect it to fail from VO contact in short order. 30R9 is an option, although not cheap. I know of ALOT of Parker Push-Loc hose and Boston Easy Couple (viton-lined) in hot VO service, but have heard of no failures...
This is Weatherhead 250 psi Diesel Fuel Line - after 1 yr in service. No failure, but I was horrified when I saw this
Now I have smooth-bore, PTFE lined SS braided hose w/JIC ends...
__________________
Choose wisely. Or PLEASE post pics of the carnage!!!
2001 F-350, DRW, 4x4, XLT Crew Cab, flat bed, 7.3, 6 spd, Dipricol Optix gauges on pillar - EGT, Boost, Fuel Press., HPO Press. - No Muffler, AIH delete, SB Con OFE, AC code injctrs, GTP 38R. Vegistroke-inspired WVO system w/150,000 trouble-free miles! BTS tunes, 203 t-stat w/billet housing, Evans coolant, coolant filter, boost relief valve, Dieselsite IC boots, Hella headlight harness, '07 grill/lites and big, bad front bumper!
2000 Excursion 4x4 Limited - BTS trans and tunes, AIS, Frybrid/V3 SVO conversion with over 100k VO miles so far!
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) alum fuel lines.
But I do go to Oregon, and the mountains in the winter a fair bit.
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