Ok so for us mild Chemist, who only want to play with blends..... What if you had a container that had a cone shape at the bottom, with a piece of pipe connected to it and a valve. Add in the WVO, then cut it with some diesel (help thin the mix). Then just let it sit for awhile so all the particulates sink to the bottom. Then open the valve on the bottom to remove the waste. Then pump out the mix (from the top) and put in your truck?
I have also heard of burning used motor oil? Is that possible and at what ratio with diesel?
if your wvo has already been filtered you don't have to premix unless it's below 50'f and your using a 30-40 %wvo. just add wvo to the tank then the #2. blending #1 or #2 to the wvo prior to filtering works in cold temps. but you will lose a small amount of diesel in the waste crud.
i settle my wvo for two weeks and only filter the oil off the top. the bottom junk could go to a gravity filter unit or you could make bio-diesel, or save it for other uses.
i filter my wvo to 5 micron.
some people use wmo (waste motor oil) in thier rigs, you should run that through a filter as well, prior to adding. some use a quart per tank, some use several gallons. just like blending wvo keep adding until the truck doesn't like it, then cut the mix to a lighter blend.
i would be concerned with burning wmo, because it may have heavy metals and acids.
I have at least 30 gallons of WMO from my stroke, and ran blackstone reports on every change so I have a record of what is in it. Anything on the report to look for? What kind of filter should I use to filter it and where can I get it from? I may be able to pick up most of it from my local Farm & Fleet store.
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DD 2010 Ford Fusion Sport
relegated to garage duty U.S.N. Paradise BB91904
'99 F350 CC LWB DRW
Mods, SuperHyper Improbability drive stage II. Hypermax 5" turbo back system, triple pillar guages, Heater core shutoff. AEM Brute Force intake. 3.73 gearing. DP PCM with 80HP Installed!
TurboYT - Don't cut and filter, just filter, you'll just be wasting #2. Last summer I burned 70-80% WVO to Kerosene with no problems but it all depends on the outside temp. If you burn WVO too cold you can develope coking on the injectors. I don't mix anymore...
ACDII - Don't know about the acids but, just filtering WMO though a sock like ya do the WVO should do the trick.
I mixed WVO and #2 all last summer did it up until october when it was down in the low 50º's I let the stuff settle in the sun for a week then sucked off the top, ran through an old fuel oil furnace filter that I had around and mixed 60/30 WVO #2 and some power service fuel addative just to be safe.
This is the only article I have on mixing WMO. Dont do it in an HEUI engine. I wouldnt even do it in an old IDI engine.
A '97 F250 with 295K miles, 90 LED's and 5" stacks, among other things....
A '96 F250 Reg cab with 210K miles, Needs to go away. PM me. '86 359 Peterbilt SHORT HOOD. The ongoing "project" it aint pretty but its got a 425 air to air Cat motor .....13 speed Eaton. Corvette Dash, 17 gauges, 8" black stacks, 63" flat top---> 36" sitting here waiting for paint. 1.305 Million Miles.
I don't know what I am doing, I just know I don't have time to do it.
I read a thread in infopop forum, where a guy (that was brewing bio) added WMO (20-25%?) to his veg oil, and heated/mixed it up together before reacting (he ignored the WMO content and figured his methanol/lye to the amount of the veg oi). He reported that all (or a lot of) the black soot settled out with the glycerin (although I think his reactor was very well insulated and settling was long and warm), the final product looked good. he water washed/dried etc. per normal. He also observed that it lowered the gellp oint of the "fuel" below what the original pure bio was at, due to the additives in the oil. And also enjoyed the extra fuel percentage and a little more "BTU per gallon"/power/mileage.
I have not tried this myself, but am thinking I will this summer when the temps are warmer.
I think if a guy (or gal): 1) settleds the WMO for a significant time, and pours off the top only a lot of soot/sludge/metal particulates etc. will be eliminated. 2) I think brewing/settling it along with the bio thins the overall mix, allowing for more heavy particles (and soot) to drop out. Maybe getting "hit" with the catalyst/methanol might "loosen" the soot/particulates/etc. making it easier? 3) water washing should also help with acidity of WMO.
Worth a shot I think (maybe at a lower percentage than the guy on infopop though...LOL).
I have filtered WMO before, and it it is still blacker than the ace of spades...LOL. But I am sure we have all left some laying around in a bucket, and noticed the sludge/paticles at the bottom when we do get around to pouring it off. I think settling goes long ways for WMO.
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2001 XLT 4WD Crew Cab Long Bed. 170k - Mostly stock except: In-tank and pre-pump (and harpoon),AIS (zoodad and fender sleve to come soon). DP tuner.
its no so much the metal shavings that worry me but more the acids and what not in the oil. these acids slowly eat away at your engine, thats why you drain the oil. now why put these same acids in your injectors or injection pump and let them eat away at that. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Diesel Rod
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Formerly Diesel Rod.
A '97 F250 with 295K miles, 90 LED's and 5" stacks, among other things....
A '96 F250 Reg cab with 210K miles, Needs to go away. PM me. '86 359 Peterbilt SHORT HOOD. The ongoing "project" it aint pretty but its got a 425 air to air Cat motor .....13 speed Eaton. Corvette Dash, 17 gauges, 8" black stacks, 63" flat top---> 36" sitting here waiting for paint. 1.305 Million Miles.
I don't know what I am doing, I just know I don't have time to do it.
[ QUOTE ]
its no so much the metal shavings that worry me but more the acids and what not in the oil. these acids slowly eat away at your engine, thats why you drain the oil. now why put these same acids in your injectors or injection pump and let them eat away at that. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Diesel Rod
[/ QUOTE ]
Thats why I think the brewing with/in bio would be the best. Not only are the acids being counterd with Na/KOH, but also the water washing should both take care of any acidity.
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2001 XLT 4WD Crew Cab Long Bed. 170k - Mostly stock except: In-tank and pre-pump (and harpoon),AIS (zoodad and fender sleve to come soon). DP tuner.
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