I am currently running a greasecar wvo system in my 1999 f350 powerstroke. My system has a coolant heated tank, HIH, and a coolant heated fuel filter. I live in Arizona.
During the hot part of the day (100f+) I am able to switch over to wvo after 10-15 miles of driving. The problem I have found is at night and in the cold country, it takes a really long time to heat up to 160f. I am afraid that in the winter here WVO will not be an option for my 25 mile drive to work.
My questions are: What is the average switchover time (miles) in a climate like mine? What can I add to my system to get 5-7 mile switchover times?
1) To answer your question, it takes me about 4-5 miles(ish) to warm up to temp in the summer... about 7-8 miles(ish) in the winter. That's "Northern Idaho" winters... where it's not unusual to see 20* outside.
2) Where is your temp sensor? In the fuel tank? If that's the case, then it will takes ages in the wintertime to heat your whole tank... which is not what you need to do to turn your system on...
3) From what you described, it doesn't sound like you have a true in-line heat exchanger in your system.... it sounds like you have a heat-exchanger in your tank, then run HIH on/around/near your coolant-heated fuel filter. That MIGHT not be enough (though hard to tell if you are taking your temp inside your fuel tank).
Can you do a little more verbal diagramming of your system? Then we can intelligently contribute more...
Halitosis
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'02 Ford Excursion Limited
7.3L PSD -- 170,000 Miles
Hellwig Sway Bar
Firestone Ride-Rite Air-Helper Springs
203* Thermostat
Teconsha Prodigy Brake Controller
Sirius Satellite Radio
1995 BMW (Euro-spec!) M3
1974 Human Wife
2002 Human Son
"7/5 children suffer from ADHD... won't you help?"
(Running Vegistroke WVO system (HIH)--> 75,000 MILES AND COUNTING!)
I think my temperature sensor might be the problem. It is located in the top of the filter housing, and not inline with the fuel. Are you getting just your truck up to temp, or is your oil up to temp also? Im thinking about adding a fphe or a vegitherm. Do you know what temp the vegistroke system is set to turn on at? I am running a 203 termostat. Thanks for the input.
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Im thinking about adding a fphe or a vegitherm.
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Good idea! Get both regardless of where you live and get the Vegtherm Mega instead. PlantDrive sells both. That's what kit I have. Hotter is better. I was in Phoenix in early May when it was 112*F. Coolant 210*F (w/ 203*F t-stat) & Oil 195*F. During winters in Calif I see 203*F & 170*F.
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'97 F-350 7.3L PSD RC LB 4WD E4OD - Plant Drive VO kit
'84 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two-tank VO
Running on Veg Oil and Biodiesel since May 2006
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Im thinking about adding a fphe or a vegitherm.
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Good idea! Get both regardless of where you live and get the Vegtherm Mega instead. PlantDrive sells both. That's what kit I have. Hotter is better. I was in Phoenix in early May when it was 112*F. Coolant 210*F (w/ 203*F t-stat) & Oil 195*F. During winters in Calif I see 203*F & 170*F.
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I have the Vegistroke system on my truck. It takes me 4-5 miles in warm weather to switch over to oil and 7-8 miles in cold weather. My system switches to oil when the coolant temp reaches 160 degrees.
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2001 F-250 Lariet Crew Cab 4x4
190,000 plus miles
Vegistroke kit at 95,000 miles
BTS Transmission at 120,000 miles
Superchips 1705 Programmer
Quadzilla Commander Monitor (EGT, Boost, Tranny temp, Fuel Pressure, EOT)
Where in Az are you at? I could have water and oil up to temp in 5 miles in the winter and way less than that in the summer. Thats with a 203 t-stat, A hot fox pickup and a HIH
As others have mentioned, in your climate you shouild see a switchover in 5-7 miles, easy. I am not sure where your temp switch is located, but it should be located in the engine. It is engine coolant temperature that should dictate changeover times, not oil temperature. At least for the 7.3 and 6.0 PSD's. To check for the accuracy of your current temp switch, you should by a cheap infrared heat gun from Sears, and measure the temperature of your temp sensor to find out what the swithover temp is at that point. Also, as an afterthought, what pump is used for the WVO?
Thanks fordnut that is exactly what I needed to know. I was under the impression switchover was based on the oil temp. I am using the stock pump until it gives out. I will be buying your system as soon as I pay off my truck.
quick thought....I installed an AC silicon pad heater on my WVO tank and that way I can warm it up before hitting the road in the winter....works like a charm.
quick thought....I installed an AC silicon pad heater on my WVO tank and that way I can warm it up before hitting the road in the winter....works like a charm.
Generally considered a bad idea as it accelerates the natural degradation of the VO. Ideally, you just want to heat the oil enough to get it out of tank and you want VO to cool off as quickly as possible afterwards.
To the OP:
Your Greasecar system has many inherent flaws. I am afraid you may not make it to your goal of paying truck off to get a Vegistroke system. First, your in-tank HE is made of copper - this will likely already be coated with a thick scum of 'chicken-skin', an advanced form of oxidative polymerization. Second, the PEX fuel line has a history of failing and in a HIH set-up, this means contaminating your fuel w/coolant (can you say injectors please?). Third, the shared filter (VO and diesel go into diesel filter, right?) garuntees both cross-contamination - VO in diesel tank - and also insures an adequate purge can never really happen. Finally, the extreme lack of heat in this system is most problematic. Even thought the PSD is the most forgiving VO conversion candidate as heat goes, the amount of heat you have is NOT enough to adequately 'thin' the VO for proper atomization thru the injectors. I tell people you can put honey in a windex bottle, but that don't mean it'll spray right...
I have personally seen the damage done by the Vegtherms. The issue is a combination of extreme heat localized along one side of unit and a condition known as 'laminar flow'. Its kinda like an eddy in the flow where the sam VO stays in contact with th hot spot - burning the VO into little carbon crystals. If this thing is downstream from the filter, the injectors haven't got a prayer...
Now, I do know quite a few folks that have 'fixed up' a kit like you have in order to make it function properly - but, generally speaking yer better off starting from scratch... Please forgive me for being the bearer of bad news.
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Choose wisely. Or PLEASE post pics of the carnage!!!
2001 F-350, DRW, 4x4, XLT Crew Cab, flat bed, 7.3, 6 spd, Dipricol Optix gauges on pillar - EGT, Boost, Fuel Press., HPO Press. - No Muffler, AIH delete, SB Con OFE, AC code injctrs, GTP 38R. Vegistroke-inspired WVO system w/150,000 trouble-free miles! BTS tunes, 203 t-stat w/billet housing, Evans coolant, coolant filter, boost relief valve, Dieselsite IC boots, Hella headlight harness, '07 grill/lites and big, bad front bumper!
2000 Excursion 4x4 Limited - BTS trans and tunes, AIS, Frybrid/V3 SVO conversion with over 100k VO miles so far!
Not to hiujack this thread but I have a question about an additional tank heater for the winter. Please let me know if this would be a good or bad idea.
I have a Vegistroke system on my truck witha 51 gallon aluminum tank in the bed of the truck. I was thinking about attaching an A/C heater to the side of the tank to help with pre-heating the oil for winter use. I was going to hook this heater to the same A/C cable I use for my block heater.
I would run both of them through a timer that comes on 3 hours before I start the truck.
Would this additional heater do any "damage" to the WVO I have in the tank or Vegistroke system?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Marc
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2005 F-250 Supercab 4x4 Lariat long bed 6 speed, Vegistroke V3 WVO system, integrated brake controller, upfitter switches, TTM, South Texas Outfitters custom front end replacement, Whelen Liberty LED lightbar, Whelen Dominator LED front bar, hidden front strobes, rear LED's and strobes, Rhino liner, Whelen 200 watt siren, Havis Consolidator console, and other hidden goodies. Pictures are in "Shoebox" album. http://community.webshots.com/user/vtfireftr
I still can't get over those who think that heating the tank is a good idea. It's a common brain fart that newbies have a hard time comprehending. A good system heats the tank's fuel pickup tube and the various components down stream heat it further. IMO adding heat to the tank really won't speed up flip times during winter because it's far more important to wait for the coolant to reach temp and a good system will heat the oil enough before the injectors regardless of added tank heat.
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'97 F-350 7.3L PSD RC LB 4WD E4OD - Plant Drive VO kit
'84 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two-tank VO
Running on Veg Oil and Biodiesel since May 2006
I still can't get over those who think that heating the tank is a good idea. It's a common brain fart that newbies have a hard time comprehending. A good system heats the tank's fuel pickup tube and the various components down stream heat it further. IMO adding heat to the tank really won't speed up flip times during winter because it's far more important to wait for the coolant to reach temp and a good system will heat the oil enough before the injectors regardless of added tank heat.
it really isn't hard to understand why...the more oil you have to heat, the longer it will take.
Just be sure you have a pump that can pull cool (slightly heated) oil from the tank
I'm just heating my pick up tube and heating the whole way to the engine.
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'00 F250 7.3L, 4x4, 6-spd, SCT X3, ATTA 90 gallon tank/toolbox, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 kit. WVO kit in the making...now if I could just finish getting the CANbus code written for that HE431VE.
'96 Impreza "WRX" coupe time attack car
Last edited by Homemade WRX; 02-05-2009 at 01:58 PM.
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