WVO heat question

[VTFireftr]

Thanks for the replys. I won't waste my time or cash on a heater.

Marc

[rkpatt]

VTFireftr- You still should use a heated fuel pickup ( like a Hotfox or small coil at the pickup )to get the WVO to a low enough viscosity to be properly pumped and filtered before it gets to the FHPE and other systems down the line.


Here is picture of the interior of front factory tank on my 1994 F250 IDI
that was used as the WVO tank for about 3 years (oxidative polymerization) . I was using a DIY coolant heated fuel pickup similar to the Hotfox . I am now using a polyethylene tank . Heed the advice of others and use an aluminum, plastic or stainless steel tank . A properly epoxy coated steel tank might be OK but it seems simpler to use another material.

[VTFireftr]

I am using a 51 gallon aluminum tank that I got from DFA as part of the Vegistroke kit.

This tank has the built-in heat exchanger using the truck's coolant.

I am just going to insulate the tank to keep the heat in for the winter.

Thanks again all for your help.

Marc

[luckuslucas]

Marc-
I think you'll get the best results if you just put the block heater on a timer. That way you'll get the engine up to temp faster, but you won't face any of the issues of polymerization by excessively heating the oil in your tank. I put a 2" foam wrap on my lines for this winter, so we'll see how that does.

[airfooter]

Originally Posted by VTFireftr

I am using a 51 gallon aluminum tank that I got from DFA as part of the Vegistroke kit.

This tank has the built-in heat exchanger using the truck's coolant.

I am just going to insulate the tank to keep the heat in for the winter.

Thanks again all for your help.

Marc

It is gnerally considered a BAD idea to insulate VO tank. Just as heating the WHOLE tank is not a good idea (I know, DFA and many others sell'em this way). The reason is the longer VO is 'hot' the faster the polymerization reaction occurs. Ideally, we would only heat the VO right around pick-up tube and any heat transferred to tank would dissapate ASAP - minimizing this natural degradation of the VO (called oxidative polymerization).

[genie144]

I use a hotfox intank fuel pickup. A heated dahl 150 filter. And an arctic fox inline fuel heater. I wait for the coolant (digital gauge) to hit 180 before switching over. Fuel line is inside conduit with coolant line the entire length of the frame.

Filter is within 3 feet of the tank and the inline heater is equadistance between engine and tank.

Sam

[aircoffee]

I have a 1993 f350 IDI and just recieved my greasecar kit. I have not installed it yet. Where do ya'll suggest I put my temp gauge so I can use the WVO asap?

[anii23]

aircoffee

Put the sensor on the hot side coolant hose. The hot side is the hose coming out of the passenger side of the engine.

Since creating this thread I have switched to the v3 vegistroke kit. I love it! 20k miles on vegi and loving it. Good luck.

[airfooter]

Originally Posted by aircoffee

I have a 1993 f350 IDI and just recieved my greasecar kit. I have not installed it yet. Where do ya'll suggest I put my temp gauge so I can use the WVO asap?

I'm not trying to throw stones, but I just left a 7.3 IDI w/a Greasecrap conversion (so much for the stone throwing, eh?). Poor couple has been cursed with this junk conversion for nearly 3 years. I have also met at least a dozen others - NONE satisfied with its performance and some have spent $1000's in related repairs (IP's, injectors, etc) Actually, this couple w/the IDI had already replaced an IP. Seriously, there are HUGE problems w/the standard GC 'kit'. Mostly copper HE in tank, pex fuel lines, cross contamination of VO in diesel tank and a desperate lack of VO heat to engine. I have also met several 'modified' GC systems that are performing almost adequately, but they coulda just bought a good (Frybrid) system for what they have invested - NOT COUNTING the IP's, injectors, towing bills, weeks w/o a car, etc.

Using WVO asap is not a good idea - especially in a 'system' (term used loosely - middle-school science project is usually more accurate) that NEVER provides enough heat, much less after just a few miles.

Please take some time and read the wealth of knowlege stored at frybrid site. There are resources and back-ups there to support the information. Yes, site is owned by a guy who sells stuff, but I promise, he don't care if he sells YOU anything or not. The info is not 'biased' as some would have you believe. The GC forum, infopoop, burnveg, etc are all full of contributors who want to 'justify' whatever decisions they've made...