'06 6.0 stuttering/stumbling lacking power...? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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'06 6.0 stuttering/stumbling lacking power...?

Hey guys I am having some trouble with my '06 PSD. Recently it has started to run poorly. I knew it had been running to good to be true

When I first start it in the morning it starts very rough and idles rough (almost surging) for 3 or 4 minutes. Once it warms up a bit it idles fine. But if I try to drive it without a solid 10 minutes of idle time it just stutters and misses very bad, a week or two ago these symptoms would completely go away after it was warmed up. However, in the last few days it has gotten worse. Now it is noticeably down on power, when I leave a stop light it stutters then picks up and generally feels hesitant and surges in and out of power. If I stand on it, it goes no where! Every once in a while when I come to a stop light it will stutter for a couple of seconds and return to idling normally. My fuel mileage is way down as well. Those are all the major symptoms I'm noticing.

It is not smoking abnormally, no CEL, it's not throwing any codes. But it does seem to be slightly louder at idle, but that could just be in my head.

This weekend I replaced the EGR valve as it acted like this once in the past and that was the culprit, but this time it did not change anything. I also replaced the secondary fuel filter today, but ran out of day light and could not do the primary on the frame. After driving it with just the secondary replaced it seems no different. I also checked my FICM voltage thinking maybe that was the problem, but I got a 48V reading with the key in the on position and with the engine running so that seems to be okay.

So I am just looking for some insight as to where I go from here. ICP? EBP? I would really like to fix this myself rather than take it to my local dealership, but I'm running out of ideas. Thanks for any help in advance fellas!

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 11:53 PM
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You did not check your FICM properly.
First and foremost, if your batteries are older than 30 days old, remove them from the truck and have them individually load tested. If they are marginal or fail replace.
Ensure the batteries are fully charged.
Do not bother testing the FICM until the batteries are checked and fully charged. It will not give you proper readings.
Then follow this little snippit from Swamps Diesel:

How to check my FICM voltage with a multimeter or voltmeter

***FICM voltage tests should be performed with the engine oil COLD (ie, close to ambient air temperature). This will force the FICM into it's inductive heating strategy, which will give you a worse case scenario/voltage reading. If the engine has been run (within 5-6 hours of this test), then the warm engine oil may not give you an accurate FICM voltage.

On all 2003-2007 Ford 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engines you will find the FICM bolted to the drivers side valve cover...you may need to unbolt the coolant reservoir from the 'cowl' so that you can get your arms/hands back there to work on the FICM.

You don't need to drain the coolant...just unbolt the bracket that hold the coolant reservoir, and gently move it as far out of your way as possible. Be careful, as there is a plastic coolant connector that can be cracked if the coolant jug is handled forcefully.

On the top of the FICM, you will see a diamond/oval shaped metal plate...remove the two screws from that plate (Torx#20).

under that plate you will either see 7 "lugs"...or 4 "lugs" (depending on the year of the truck)...

if you have a "7 lug FICM"...you want to put one lead from your multimeter onto the upper left "lug"...and the other multimeter probe to ground (bare spot on the cylinder head, alternator bracket, negative battery terminal, etc).

If you have a "4 lug FICM"...you will want to check the lug on the right (closest to the drivers side fender).

be careful NOT to lean the probe on the FICM lug...over onto the aluminum case...you might let the smoke out, LOL...

Have someone turn the key to the 'on' position (don't crank it yet)...and see what your FICM voltage is. It should be >46volts.

Next have someone crank the engine...and see what the FICM voltage is while cranking...again..should be >46volts.

Go ahead and start the engine...and see what the voltage is while idling.

If the FICM voltage drops below 46 volts...then it is "bad"...

we have seen FICM's as low as 17volts...some 19v's...some in the twenty's and low thirties...

obviously...the lower the voltage...the 'worse' the FICM is...and the more likely that (cold) rough running would be a result of a bad FICM.

however..if you email (or call) us and say that your FICM is dropping to 43-44volts...while low..I think that you may have some underlying injector issues that may be contributing to your cold rough running, as much as the slightly low voltage FICM

You can email any questions to dave@swampsdiesel.com ; however, if your voltage IS low...then your FICM is bad, and you can place an order at the following link. Swamp's Webstore - Custom Electronics

due to the high demand of our (48v &/or 58v) Heavy Duty FICM's, we are typically running 2 days behind on current orders...if you need express delivery, please make a note in the comments section during your online checkout, and we will call you with shipping options and rate quotes.

Last edited by ex mounty; 05-02-2011 at 11:55 PM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2011, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, so I checked the FICM while the truck was cold. With the key in the on position it was giving me a reading of 48V. but when I had the engine cranked and started it gave me a reading of 45V. So I guess my FICM is bad?

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2011, 10:25 PM
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That reading means nothing if the batteries were not removed from the truck and load tested previous to testing the FICM.
The batteries also need to be fully charged.

If they are not tested the problem could very well be a dead/dying cell within one of the batteries. The way that these trucks are wired, it will crank over rapidly even with dead batteries.
I recently had both batteries test out as dead and it turned over the same as always. The FICM also tested "low". I replaced both batteries and rechecked. Thankfully, my FICM was fine and not the root cause of my issue. (darn high pressure oil leak)
You don't want to drop the coin for a new FICM, only to find out later that it was a battery issue since your new FICM can be damaged by the old weak batteries. If that happens you will need another FICM.
This is the reason why it must be tested in that order.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-04-2011, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry I forgot to address the battery issue. The batteries are 45 days old at the oldest. i just replaced both of them when I replaced my FPR and the cracked fuel line to the FPR. I did that work in the last week of March.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-04-2011, 02:44 AM
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'06 6.0 stuttering/stumbling lacking power...?

Sounds exactly like my issue 2 months ago. Running really rough for 3 to 4 minutes in the morning and then smoothing out. I checked my batteries first and then the FICM and found nothing abnormal. Took it to the dealer for the $89 dollar hook up and found out 5 sticky injectors when cold. After warmed up it ran like a champ. Needless to say my truck started fine a week later on a really cold morning with 8 brand new injectors!

2006 F-450 Crew Cab Lariat DRW
125,000 miles
Egr Cooler Delete from ID
Hot start issue STC
Degas bottle cap
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-04-2011, 05:25 PM
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I had the same problem, changed all 8 injectors and what a difference it made.

2003 f250 4x4 , crew cab, 8foot box.
full egr delet
amsoil oil bypass
190 amp alternator
stealth dumping system
warn locking front hubs
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