'07 F350 6.0 - Injector Circuit Low on all 8, but no symptoms???

[4x4Given]

Hi folks,

I would like to toss this out, because I'm new to owning a PSD. But I do have a long and experienced background as an ASE Master working in large multi-line GM dealerships.

I just purchased a 2007 F350 XLT SC 4x4 DRW Auto. The truck has 148,500 miles, is completely stock except for a B&W gooseneck hitch, headache rack and toolbox. It seems to be in excellent "mechanical" condition. No leaks (other than some minor seepage from the back of the engine pan and both rear axle seals), fluids look and smell good, belt and hoses look good, starts perfect, runs smooth, has good power (boost seems normal), no smoke, shifts normal, drives like new. Hour meter says 3128 hours. No evidence of any (shoddy) work being done anywhere, especially under the hood (no obviously misrouted wires, lines or broken connectors etc).

So, I test drove it about 10 miles and it was perfect. Close visual inspection was good. Price was $14,999, so I bought it (traded in a 2001 Jeep WJ for $4,500) and left $11,335 lighter in the wallet.

Drove about 50 miles the first day/night. Next morning drove to work (25 miles) and everything was perfect. Left work and about 1 mile from work the CEL lit up (steady on). I didn't notice *any* driveability related symptoms. Still running smooth, shifting normal, good power, no smoke etc. Got home and swung by AutoZone and pulled 12 codes (4 were duplicates). The codes were:

P0261 - injector 1 circuit low
P0264 - injector 2 circuit low
P0267 - injector 3 circuit low
P0270 - injector 4 circuit low
P0273 - injector 5 circuit low
P0276 - injector 6 circuit low
P0279 - injector 7 circuit low
P0282 - injector 8 circuit low

Hmmm.... OK... I go home, do a close visual inspection under the hood again and find nothing. So I disconnect both batteries for about a minute, reconnect them and fire the truck up. Same as before, all systems go and no CEL.

Wife I and go out and drive around for about 20 miles and everything is perfect.

I drive to work this morning and about 11 miles in, the CEL lights up (steady on) again. A co-worker just happened to have a Actron code reader (same one the AutoZone guy used), so I go out and plug it in and low and behold, it says 12 codes (again 4 duplicates) and lists the same thing.

Right now my thoughts are:

1 - No way all 8 injectors are having the same issue
2 - Some of the codes are "history" and I did not really "clear" them when I disconnected the battery, even though it did reset (turn off) the CEL.
3 - The CEL lighting up is probably one (or possibly more) of the "injector circuit low" codes.
4 - This is, likely and electrical problem in which all 8 injectors share a common relationship such as a loose or poor ground connection, loose or poor harness connection etc.

Now, I am pretty good at diagnosing electrical issues, but at this time, I do not yet have a FSM (I was surprised how EXPENSIVE they are for this truck!!!), so no wiring diagram or idea of specs to check (resistance, voltage etc).

Ideas, suggestions? Smart remarks? Funny one are appreciated too.

Thanks!

Dutch

[Rccarps2]

I would get your batteries tested and make sure your alternator is functioning properly. A bad alternator or batteries have been known to cause havoc with your FICM.

Here is a pretty decent post Will a bad Alternator affect sensors and FCIM?


RC

[4x4Given]

OK, I discovered a "symptom" when leaving work today. It started perfect, idled smooth. But as I turned and drove up the on ramp to the highway (about 200 yards from the parking garage), the truck seemed to be "straining". RPM increasing to about 2,500, boost coming up to about 10, but not shifting and increasing speed very well. Similar to the load of trying to drive up a steep incline. The on ramp is a slight up hill incline about a 100 - 150 yards long and after it got over the top, it shifted and began increasing speed, but still not as well as I would expect. Also, it felt like the engine was surging or possibly exhibiting some random "soft" missing as I was accelerating up through 45mph to about 55mph. I pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor and it downshifted, RPM came up, boost came up (just over about 10) and the surging / missing seemed somewhat worse. The acceleration was not nearly what I would expect.

Once I got up to about 65mph and lifted the throttle to a steady cruise, the engine was smooth and sounded normal. I did not notice any smoke or abnormal noises during this "episode", which lasted about 30 - 45 seconds.

When I got off the highway (about 5 minutes later) and the engine was warmed up, I noticed that acceleration was much better (normal) and the surging / missing during moderate to hard acceleration, was gone.

OK, so I got home from work and started checking the batteries and found them to be new, but one of the cable connections (right, positive) was pretty corroded. I also noticed they were a brand I've never heard of and can't identify on google. "Delca" is the brand. ???? Anyway, I removed all four cable connections, cleaned them very thoroughly, cleaned the posts very thoroughly, load tested the batteries (large hand held unit that does a 260 amp shunt test) and they checked out at 13.4v at rest, 15 second load, dropped to 12.2v, bounced right back up to 13.4v. Engine idling, charging voltage read 13.8v (using a DVOM). I don't think I have a battery / charging system issue, though without an oscilloscope to check the alternator sine wave for A/C bleed or excessive "noise", I can't be 100% sure.

I pulled the air filter and though the air filter restriciton sensor isn't reporting that it's stopped up, it sure was dirty and I'm certain it needs replacement.

I also got a WIF indication on the way home, so, I'm thinking it might be a good idea to pull the water drain plug on the FP and replace the fuel filters.

While I'm at it, I think I'll go ahead and change the oil too, though I haven't decided what to use. I'm open to suggestions here. I've always used Mobil 1 in all my other (gas engined) vehicles and Amsoil in both the Harley's. I'm thinking of using either Rotella T or Delo (10w40) in the truck.

Also, not sure if it's ok to use Fram filters on the truck. The nearest Racor distributor is 75 miles away. There are some NAPA stores around that have Purolator brand, and I suppose I could pay a premium and go to Ford, though I think O'Reilly's carries Motorcraft filters.

As I understand it, when changing the fuel filters, I need to be able to purge the air to prevent a no start cnodition and possible injector damage. So, I'll dig around here on the forums and see if I can find instructions on that.

[69ttop502]

Fram filters are Racor so you are good there. Delo 15w-40 is all I use and a very good oil. I cycle the key on and off 4 or 5 times after replacing the fuel filters to purge the air. Don't forget to drain the water valve before removing frame mounted filter. Wish I could help more on the other problem.


Bill

[dikkstarr]

OK, I discovered a "symptom" when leaving work today. It started perfect, idled smooth. But as I turned and drove up the on ramp to the highway (about 200 yards from the parking garage), the truck seemed to be "straining". RPM increasing to about 2,500, boost coming up to about 10, but not shifting and increasing speed very well. Similar to the load of trying to drive up a steep incline. The on ramp is a slight up hill incline about a 100 - 150 yards long and after it got over the top, it shifted and began increasing speed, but still not as well as I would expect. Also, it felt like the engine was surging or possibly exhibiting some random "soft" missing as I was accelerating up through 45mph to about 55mph. I pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor and it downshifted, RPM came up, boost came up (just over about 10) and the surging / missing seemed somewhat worse. The acceleration was not nearly what I would expect.

Once I got up to about 65mph and lifted the throttle to a steady cruise, the engine was smooth and sounded normal. I did not notice any smoke or abnormal noises during this "episode", which lasted about 30 - 45 seconds.

When I got off the highway (about 5 minutes later) and the engine was warmed up, I noticed that acceleration was much better (normal) and the surging / missing during moderate to hard acceleration, was gone.

Mine does this sometimes, it like driving with the brakes on, right? Then all of a sudden it decides to work normally. I think its a wire chaffing issue or pcm is bad, But how to tell witch?

[dsltek]

Hey man I hope I can be some help! All ur symptoms I have delt with many times over and over with vehicles ranging from low miles to high miles. Unfortunatley ur gonna need a fuel injectot control module or FICM we call it. Inside it is a DC-DC convertor that takes our battery voltage 12 volt, and converts it to 48 volts so the injectors can fire...if it can't make 48 volts then the injectors kant work to their full potential. All of ur concerns are more. Prevelant when it is cold starting....run rough...smokes on start up..MIL illuminated may or may not have drive problems. This module is a dealer item only and hasta be programmed into the vehicle. U kant just slap it in...frowns! U might be able to find a used one on the net but there's no gaurantee tho. Pricing is like from 500 to 800 depending on how much dealer mark up is. I've been replacing these things like crazy the last year or so. It is located on driver side valve cover(siler box lookin thing). If ya got n e ?'S man gimmie a holla ill try to help ya out 3133500660! Good luck

[rock_doctor]

you can get a reman FICM off ebay. There is a company in Davies (?) florida that sells them. You buy on ebay, ship them the existing one, they use it to program the new one (keep the old as core) and send you the new one. Just take a look. It is like said, a little more then $500 but the price you pay will include express shipping back and forth. I haven't used them myself but they do this quite a bit. The FICMs have been a real issue with 05 and newer trucks. I don't know who was building these things for ford but they need to go back to making video games....

[my03psd]

Yup FICM just had this problem w/ an 06 F550 at work.Same problem, and same codes.

[4x4Given]

Well, just got back from running some errands. This time when I started it up to leave, it ran a little rough, the idle bounced up and down some, but no smoke. This went on for about a minute, then it smoothed out. I waited another minute or two, then drove it. It seemed to drive fine and ran smooth. The remainder of the drive (about 5 miles, with 4 store stops) it started and ran just fine. Just as I was about a block from the house, the CEL lit up. I figured it would, but since I verified that I had successfully cleared all codes before heading out, I was hoping to catch an accurate code reading. Well it set 9 codes. 1 was a duplicate. The were all the same as before too.

P0261 - injector 1 circuit low
P0264 - injector 2 circuit low
P0267 - injector 3 circuit low
P0270 - injector 4 circuit low
P0273 - injector 5 circuit low
P0276 - injector 6 circuit low
P0279 - injector 7 circuit low
P0282 - injector 8 circuit low

Dang. Guess I better save up some $$$ and get an FICM.

But first... I'm going to VERY closely ckeck the harness for chaffing, poor connection and then open the FICM and check the current limiter resister solder joints.

That last part is dur to coming across a similar thread with this comment:

<copied from http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/875535-what-causes-the-ficm-to-go-out.html>
FYI---any FICM from 03-07 will work on any truck. As I understand it there is a common problem with them cracking the solder joints. If you open the FICM up they are very easy to spot. Next to the high current connecting posts, there are 4 wirewound, current limiting resistors laying right next to each other. They are brown and are bigger than any of the other resistors. These develop solder fractures and result in decreased voltage output. In many cases, resoldering these will bring the FICM back to life.

[dikkstarr]

Originally Posted by dsltek

Hey man I hope I can be some help! All ur symptoms I have delt with many times over and over with vehicles ranging from low miles to high miles. Unfortunatley ur gonna need a fuel injectot control module or FICM we call it. Inside it is a DC-DC convertor that takes our battery voltage 12 volt, and converts it to 48 volts so the injectors can fire...if it can't make 48 volts then the injectors kant work to their full potential. All of ur concerns are more. Prevelant when it is cold starting....run rough...smokes on start up..MIL illuminated may or may not have drive problems. This module is a dealer item only and hasta be programmed into the vehicle. U kant just slap it in...frowns! U might be able to find a used one on the net but there's no gaurantee tho. Pricing is like from 500 to 800 depending on how much dealer mark up is. I've been replacing these things like crazy the last year or so. It is located on driver side valve cover(siler box lookin thing). If ya got n e ?'S man gimmie a holla ill try to help ya out 3133500660! Good luck

Ford just put a brand new FICM in mine 2 months ago, it was 1400 bux. I dont think the new one went bad that soon but maybe. Thats why I think its a wire chaffing issue, at least on my truck.

[mountaintech]

hey dsltek,
My truck is doing the same thing as described by 4x4Given, runs rough and seems to miss when cold after driving 5 or 6 miles it clears up and run great.
The one thing I noticed is if I plug it in at night it fires up and runs great right away.
Is there any other sensor it could be? Before I replace the FICM, outch!!
Has anyone has had any luck opening these and finding bad connections?
I did check the batteries and inpected the FICM harness for chaffing, nothing.
Thanks

[andrewbalser]

Originally Posted by mountaintech

hey dsltek,
My truck is doing the same thing as described by 4x4Given, runs rough and seems to miss when cold after driving 5 or 6 miles it clears up and run great.
The one thing I noticed is if I plug it in at night it fires up and runs great right away.
Is there any other sensor it could be? Before I replace the FICM, outch!!
Has anyone has had any luck opening these and finding bad connections?
I did check the batteries and inpected the FICM harness for chaffing, nothing.
Thanks

For what it's worth... I had my truck in to the dealer early this year for rough running concerns. They told me it was the batteries, and I didn't believe them. I had my batteries checked a 3 different places. Two parts stores said they were good. Another said they were marginal. I took it to another dealer for a second opinion and they told me the batteries failed their test miserably. New batteries fixed it for me. I thought I had a glow plug or injector issue. My truck would crank just fine even in subzero temps, but would sound like it was only running on 2 cylinders for the first several minutes.

4x4... on your filters, around here you can find the Motorcraft oil filter at about any walmart store just as cheap or sometimes cheaper than the brands they sell at the parts stores. I only goto the Walmart though when I'm getting one at the last minute. I have an International truck dealer closeby and I usually pick the oil filter up there for $19-20, and the fuel filter kit(both filters) for $30-$35. The part numbers I use are:

Oil 1840752C91
Fuel 1847170C93

[rock_doctor]

These trucks will run like junk on weak batteries and most shops are not willing to take the time to check one battery at a time. If they are connected they will pass the test they must be separated. Look here for the normal chaffing locations but chaffing was not common after the 04 trucks. Diesel Technician Society

I would bite the bullet and get the new FICM or it is going to leave you stranded. You can't in most cases visually see a cracked solder joint short of using a microscope. If you really want to tempt fate you can take a soldering iron and just quickly heat each solder joint. Don't add any more solder just liquefy what is there. I would do it from the bottom of the board. I doubt you will see a change but since they are trashing the board when they reman it, you have nothing to loose. Try not to destroy it they need the FICM to be in semi-working condition to pull off the firmware to program the replacement FICM. Lastly, take pictures when you open it up. I would love to see what it looks inside it and I suspect others would also. Document what you do just in case it actually works. You may pioneer a shade-tree way to fix this thing.

[grounder]

IMO The Heat Flash Ford has adopted is what is Cooking the FICM .International has never gone this route.Yes they have had several flash updates over the years for the VT Engines.But never used the Induction flash like Ford does.Their answer was Just the Pre-start and post-shutdown Spool valve shuttle to help with the stiction issues.

[GrampyJim]

Originally Posted by mountaintech

hey dsltek,
My truck is doing the same thing as described by 4x4Given, runs rough and seems to miss when cold after driving 5 or 6 miles it clears up and run great.
The one thing I noticed is if I plug it in at night it fires up and runs great right away.
Is there any other sensor it could be? Before I replace the FICM, outch!!
Has anyone has had any luck opening these and finding bad connections?
I did check the batteries and inpected the FICM harness for chaffing, nothing.
Thanks

Yours sounds like a possible stiction issue... It would be wise to scan for codes as well as check the FICM voltages (particularly FICM_MPWR) when the problem is happening... Most of these parts are way too expensive to change on a hunch...