6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Thanks for the info, I think I will try new batteries before doing anything with the FICM.
I had it in to Ford last week to check for codes and it had none. The truck was warm so the tech said no codes and runs fine!
New batteries won't be a big deal with winters here in Canada you need all the cranking power you can get and they are probably 3 years old.
Grampyjim any ideas what pin is the power feed to the FICM? Were is the best place to check it?
Thanks again for all the info, will post results off new batteries sometime this week.
Thanks for the info, I think I will try new batteries before doing anything with the FICM.
I had it in to Ford last week to check for codes and it had none. The truck was warm so the tech said no codes and runs fine!
New batteries won't be a big deal with winters here in Canada you need all the cranking power you can get and they are probably 3 years old.
Grampyjim any ideas what pin is the power feed to the FICM? Were is the best place to check it?
Thanks again for all the info, will post results off new batteries sometime this week.
The absolute easiest way to check it is with a capable scan tool... There are three FICM voltages - FICM_LPWR (this is Logic power... the power to the brains of the module and should be battery voltage) - FICM_VPWR (this is power to the "working" part of the FICM... also battery voltage) and FICM_MPWR (this is the voltage available for the injectors... it should be 48 volts but anything down to 45 volts is acceptable).
48 volts can drive enough amps across your ticker to make your wife a widow... Sorry, this is where I get off the bus....
Hmmm Earlier I stated that I tested my batteries, but I just realized that they were both connected when I did it. So, time to retest with both disconnected.
After sitting two days, temp about 75deg, I went to start it and it was pretty rough. Kind of like running on 4 or 5 cylinders. Gave it a little throttle and it responded and smoothed out a little, but still rough. Let off the throttle and the idel was low (about 400rpm) and very rough. Hmmm.. Gave it enough trhottle to hold it steady at about 1,100rpm and it was a pretty smooth. Did this for about a minute, then let off the throttle and the idle seemed normal and smooth. Waited another minute then put it in drive and drove off and it ran just fine. Smooth, no smoke.
I can see a factory service manual in my immediate future. I *REALLY* like this truck and I'm pretty confident that I can learn it's systems and get it fixed and dialed in. There seems to be some pretty knowledgeable folks on here and some good advice. Of course, there is also quite a bit of... unsupported theories and opinions. Having spent about 20 years as a mechanic (which included GM light diesel engine work), I'm very keen on being accurate about these things. I am definitely NOT one to just throw parts at a problem based on an unverified opinion. These are machines and machines are not magic.
Keep the ideas coming, though. And I'll keep y'all posted about the progress I make.
Grampyjim, my truck was doing same thing as 4X4given. CEL, rough romp idle with heavy black smoke when fisrt started, then run fine once warmed up (2 minutes), bad fuel mileage (6mpg). Called my dealer, several dealers but earliest appt date 2 weeks out.Told to drive it until appt or wont start, which ever comes first. It's my work truck! Today, truck almost never started, romped so hard i thought it would bend a rod! Shut it down, waited 5 minutes attempt to retart, truck started, romped slightly then smoothed out, CEL went out! Drove 37 miles to work site, like brand new i might add. I'm waiting for CEL to come back on, surely? But have you seen one of these truck do this and clear it's on CEL and start running Ok? I'll still keep appt, but with no CEL now, they will likely not find anything. can't wait to see in the morning if the truck will start OK. STICTION ?
__________________ Ken
2006,F-250 FX4,C/C,Lariat,6.0 PS w/ Auto & 3:73, Dark Satin Green/ Arizona Beige, Zoo-Dad, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, Accu Fab Elbow, Ford-Blue Spring FPR Upgrade, Muffler Delete, Nitto Terra-Grapplers AT 33's
This morning, it wouldn't start. Cranked fine, indicated RPM, glow plugs and oil pressure fine. It cranked at what I felt was a normal speed, and tried to start (some firing on various cylinders), but no start. This went on for about 15 minutes. I did each crank cycle no longer than about 10 - 15 seconds. Eventually, while cranking, I got a TBC Fault indication. I looked it up on the 'net and it seemed to be an indication of battery voltage getting low during cranking.
I hooked up a set of heavy jumper cables to my wife's Accord and put my battery charger (about a 15 amp unit) on the other battery.
After about 10 - 15 minutes, I tried it again and it started, but had really pronounced loping / rough idle, with a lot of black smoke. I applied enought throttle to bring it to 1,000 rpm and it was very smooth and no black smoke. Let off the throttle and the looping / rough idle and black smoke returned. This symptom continued for about 2 - 3 minutes, then it suddenly smoothed out and the black smoke quit. At this point it idled smooth and had good throttle response and no smoke. I headed on in to work (25 miles) and it ran PERFECT. When it's warmed up, this truck is so smooth and has great throttle response, power and no smoke.
Well, on the way in I elected to drop it off at the local Ford dealership and have them do a diagnostic on it ($89) which would include any flash updates to the FICM. I specifically requested they update the FICM after reading about the updates that address hard starts, possible false codes and includes a program that will use inductive heat to preheat the oil in the injectors, in an effort to minimize or eliminate spool valve sticking (see hard / no start).
While dropping it off, the service advisor noted that while I had two new Deka batteries, they were only rated at 675 CCA. He said that the factory calls for 875 CCA and that I should consider replacing them at my earliest convenience. He said it's possible for lower rated batteries to cause hard / no start conditions.
I also see that Harbor Freight has a scanner / reader on sale for $119. It's a pretty full featured unit that will read the live data stream, record, graph, snapshot, print etc. So, I'm planning on picking on of them up and go hunt down some stronger batteries.
Along the battery topic, I've been inclined to get Optima Yellow tops (36 month warranty), but I also understand that the DuraLast Golds (85 month warranty) are good and about 40% cheaper.
Mines in the shop now for multiple injector 'circuits low'. P0200 as well. Talked to the tech and he said Ford is finding (suspecting?) the induction flash is hard on the FICM. Mine didn't previously have it but it does now. It wasn't previously hard to start, and it seemed suspect to to me that energizing to injectors this way may likely cause longer term problems.
He said the FICM's are updated (?) and there's another update pending for the induction flash. Guess 'High Maintenance' applies......
Sound close, Jim?
Take Care
__________________
'05 Excursion 6.0L with Air Lifts and Bilsteins, high idle mod., only 'tuner' is in the radio, towing an '00 HR Alumascape 31SKS with a Hensley.
Well, right now the upside to my problem is that I just spoke with the used car dealer I bought it from and he said he would be willing to go half on the repair, but he would prefer to use a mechanic that he uses (works on and drives Ford diesels) and buy the parts from his local Ford dealer, because he gets them at cost.
So... I'll go pick up the truck from the dealer here in Austin (and pay the $90 diagnostic fee) and drive it down to New Braunfels Motor Company and let them fix it.
I imagine that this will wind up costing me about $350 - $400, all said and done, which isn't bad.
Yea i saw you "upside" post on FTE, so i am glad it worked out for you. I just wish we could find out why so many FICMs are failing. There are the two main theories but i would like a definitive reason. Plus i would love to know if the reman units are ok or are they also going to fail in short order??? I will leave my post in place for those who find this thread during a search.
No joke! You know, I just cannot imagine why in the world they would mount that thing on a hot / cold, vibrating, at times soaking wet engine!!! Baffles me. It should have been mounted under the dash or behind the front kick panels.
No joke! You know, I just cannot imagine why in the world they would mount that thing on a hot / cold, vibrating, at times soaking wet engine!!! Baffles me. It should have been mounted under the dash or behind the front kick panels.
I think because they buy the engine as a package from international, so it comes complete. All they have to do is drop it in and hook it up. My concern is, that they made some change in the thing for the 05 and after model year, that is making the computer more fragile and that issue has been transferred to the remanufactured units. Meaning we all have a second failure in our futures. During the reman process they likely just install a new board in the old case.
Grampyjim, my truck was doing same thing as 4X4given. CEL, rough romp idle with heavy black smoke when fisrt started, then run fine once warmed up (2 minutes), bad fuel mileage (6mpg). Called my dealer, several dealers but earliest appt date 2 weeks out.Told to drive it until appt or wont start, which ever comes first. It's my work truck! Today, truck almost never started, romped so hard i thought it would bend a rod! Shut it down, waited 5 minutes attempt to retart, truck started, romped slightly then smoothed out, CEL went out! Drove 37 miles to work site, like brand new i might add. I'm waiting for CEL to come back on, surely? But have you seen one of these truck do this and clear it's on CEL and start running Ok? I'll still keep appt, but with no CEL now, they will likely not find anything. can't wait to see in the morning if the truck will start OK. STICTION ?
Well, update! Truck almost through me out of the seat this morning trying to start it! (my wife laughed at me, " you really like the truck don't you"). It's amazing how hard a high compresssion engine can knock when no fuel, some fuel or too much fuel is going into cylinders out of sequence and misfiring. Almost 10 minutes to get it started and stay running. But my dealer said as soon as he has an open bay, he'll take the truck, 6 service truck bays and trucks sitting in all of them. Closest other dealer can't get to it for 3 weeks. But we are "Valued Customers" !
__________________ Ken
2006,F-250 FX4,C/C,Lariat,6.0 PS w/ Auto & 3:73, Dark Satin Green/ Arizona Beige, Zoo-Dad, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, Accu Fab Elbow, Ford-Blue Spring FPR Upgrade, Muffler Delete, Nitto Terra-Grapplers AT 33's
OK. Got mine back. As stated earlier, the used truck dealer agreed to split the cost. He gets a discount. He took it to his local Ford dealer (Bluebonnet, in New Braunfels) and my total cost, out the door for a diagnostic and a new FICM installed and programmed, was $300. And the repair is warranted by Ford. I suppose its safe to say I got a pretty good deal.
I have a 2005 F350, that just had the FICM replaced due to low voltage(29v). 91500 on the ODO. Ford covered the repair under the emissions warranty with no deductible.
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And I'll keep y'all posted about the progress I make.
It wasn't previously hard to start, and it seemed suspect to to me that energizing to injectors this way may likely cause longer term problems.
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