The Diesel Stop banner

2003 6.0L Intermittent No start

5K views 10 replies 3 participants last post by  Jdolson22 
#1 ·
I bought a 2003 F350 with the crank no start issue, 80% of the time it could be started with a shot of brake cleaner or lysol (don't preach to me, i know the dangers) to move for street sweeping, other times it would just crank faster and then slow back down. When I first got it, i took it for a drive for about over an hour straight with no issues ( without shutting it off). It has developed a stalling issue where it will shut off when i accelerate from a stop, when i would go to restart, the injectors wouldnt make their notable loud clatttering but they would buzz or hum for a couple seconds. Even with a shot of brake cleaner it wouldn't start at that moment, it would be fine and the injectors would clatter normally the next day after it cooled off. For a week straight the truck would start up and run normally (still had stalling issue) when it was cold, but would not restart hot. Now the truck will not start at all, there is no smoke or signs (there never was) of trying to start. I have had the truck since November second and i have changed out these parts in the course my ownership:
-IPR
-ICP and pigtail
-One battery
-Oil and filter (Rotella 15w40)
-Cam sensor
-Crank Sensor
I was told the other battery in the truck was relatively new, both are up to spec and have approptriate CCA. I have checked the FICM and during the Injector Clattering and Key on Engine off the voltage never dropped under 45. I have also charged both batteries and made sure the terminals were clean. The oil pressure gauge on the dash moved up about halfway after a few seconds of cranking. I took the valve cover off and the STC fitting on the oil rail looked a little chipped, i also noticed that the wires on the injectors near it are yellowish, compared to the white on the ones closer to the firewall but i cranked the engine over and i didn't see a leak. The cranking RPM is averaged about 140 RPMs in this 38 degree weather here in Jersey. Is there anything I should be looking for besides the basic things i have seen on every forum? Why would it start fine with no help for one week and then not work the next?
 
See less See more
#4 ·
That fitting is not the one normally known as an "STC" or "snap to connect" fitting, the STC fitting was used in 05 to connect the HPOP and it failed...alot. That fitting you show there is just the fitting of the HPO line connecting to the oil rail.

Regarding the colors of wires on the injectors, AFAIK, the darker yellow would be indicating it's a newer injector that has been replaced and the color has not worn off it as much yet.

If your having a hot, no start issue, that sounds like a HPO leak to me. I would suggest you start by reading the thread at the top of this 6.0L Diesel forum titled "Troubleshooting a "no Start" condition" and see if that leads you to the culprit.
 
#5 ·
I know the stc fitting is on the 05+ HPOP, I could've sworn it said STC on the fitting I saw but it might've said something else I assumed. Are you saying that the slightly yellow and yellow wires are injectors that have been replaced? I have a picture from a video I took that shows all the whites comparison, sorry if it isn't the best. Do the fittings I mentioned leak at all?
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Regarding the wire colors, my mistake. I was thinking about a chart I have from Alliant Power talking about the color of the wire ties & wire guide used to indicate which injector, not the wire colors.

Here's a reference to a similar chart to the one I have:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums...-0-injectors-year-model-differences-injid.pdf

I have a paper copy of one that I can't even find on their web site any more talking about 4 possible combinations:

white wire tie/ white wire guide is a AP60900

white/grey is also a AP60900

black/black is a AP60901

black/grey is a AP60901

I think your right though, those 2 wires you have there do look like they are white and yellow. I think it's safe to say those are not all original injectors.

There was a change in the injectors midway through 2003. They revised the injector clevis to reduce wear inside the injector.

Regarding that braided line connecting to the oil rail, that was only used for 03-04.5 engines then updated to a stand pipe system. I am not aware of a problem with them leaking at that connection but then again my experience has been with my '07 using standpipes. Maybe someone else will reply that has worked on a few of the earlier ones.
 
#8 ·
I had some things unplugged so I'm. It sure if they're relevant but when I cranked the truck over the oil gauge didn't move, so after I started removing the top of the engine to gain access to the HPOP, I noticed that there's no oil in the oil filter housing. Does the oil drain back of the truck hasn't been running for so long?
 
#9 ·
Base Oil Pressure loss may be caused by drain plug in the bottom of the oil filter housing. Get the housing full of oil then pull the filter and watch the oil drain back to the pan. Then using a long 3/8 extension, push the drain plug down and pour some oil in the filter housing. The oil should not drain out until you let up on the drain plug. Using aftermarket filters and caps can end up with the drain partially open.
 
#10 ·
Jdolson22,
Any progress or updates?


Additionally, referring to your oil issue, do you have a OEM filter and OEM filter cap?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top